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Thinking about buying a 5 ton -- need advice please!

db72

New member
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Palmyra, MO
Good evening everyone. As I mentioned in my introduction post, I'm thinking about buying a 5 ton, and I want to make sure I have all of my bases covered.

I can already tell this post is going to be longer than some novels, so please bear with me.

First things first, I guess I should describe what I'm looking for. This all started one day a couple months ago when I was browsing FB Marketplace, and I saw a cool '61 GMC cabover that someone had put a ramp bed on to use as a car hauler. I was actually looking for a 67-72 Chevy Suburban at the time, and thought that having something like a ramp truck would be a great way to haul around various projects. The cabover was cool, but not really my style. I thought about getting a 67-72 Chevy C60 grain truck, removing the bedsides, and adding a small dovetail to be able to load things more easily. I didn't much care for the big block 366 gas that was in most of those trucks though, so I wanted to put a big diesel in it. I pretty quickly figured out that a Cat 3406B or Big Cam Cummins wouldn't fit without hacking out the firewall and having basically half of the engine in the cab with me (doghouse style). That would be a lot of work, and I wouldn't have it done in a reasonable timeframe. I started thinking about other options when I remembered the bobbed Deuce my uncle used to have, and how I've wanted a military vehicle for quite a while.

I found an M812 bridge truck that had the bridge bed removed, and I got to thinking. The M812 has a diesel already in it, and has the space in the engine bay if I decide to put a hotter motor in it in the future. The manual transmission is important to me too, which is why I haven't looked at the M939 series as much. I didn't want a Deuce since the weight capacity is less than I'd really like. The Deuce also wouldn't be a good platform for the larger diesels either, even though I'm sure something like a 5.9 or 8.3 Cummins would do what I need. What I'm looking for is something that I can cruise around in or let people ride on in parades, but also be capable of moving vehicles, tractors, equipment, etc. when I need a vehicle to do heavier work. With the M812, my thought was to see if I can find a flat bed for it that is about the right length to be flat to the end of the frame/right above the rear axle, then have a dovetail at the end so I don't need crazy long ramps. I'm not dead set on an M812 though, that was just the first truck I came across. I'm not sure if an M813 would have the frame length I want to get a vehicle on without having a lot of rear overhang. I'm thinking something in the 18-22' overall bed length would be about right, with at least 15' flat before the dove.

My first question is: does my reasoning sound solid based on the above? What issues do you all see?

Other modifications I'd plan on making to the truck are adding 16.00 R20 tires on HEMTT wheels. I think this will take care of the overwidth issue on the bridge trucks -- correct? One advantage for the M812 in this respect is the extra rear axle spacing. I'd prefer the tires not to be as close together as what I've seen on the other 5 tons, though I don't think this is a deal breaker one way or the other. Since the tires are so tall though, that would put the bed way up in the air, and I'd have to keep maximum height in mind. My other question about height is stability. Say I bought a larger tractor in the future, would the truck be too top heavy with ~5+ ton that far off the ground? I'm guessing at that point I'd look at getting a trailer.

Thinking about trailers makes me wonder if the the dovetail is a dumb idea because of potential interference between the tongue and the bed. I'd suppose that I could get a gooseneck, except I'm not sure if the truck would end up being too tall for a gooseneck hitch without the trailer being really high in the front, even with the hitch slid all the way up into the neck.

My next question is what should I be looking to pay for one of these trucks? I'm not necessarily looking for something that's mint condition. I also don't want to spend a bunch of money and a lot of time getting to the point where I have something that will pass a MO safety inspection and also not leave me stranded on the side of the road every time I drive it. I would really like to have a winch, but it also wouldn't be a dealbreaker if the price was right.

What options (if any) are there for adding a winch to one of these trucks if it doesn't have one? I'm not necessarily stuck to the PTO winch that these trucks would have came with, but I'm also not sure if I would trust an electric winch to do much good if I managed to get the thing stuck. Would it be possible to add a "wet kit" so I could add a hydraulic winch if I needed to? Is there even room on the front of a truck w/o winch to mount one?

I'm guessing I'll need to buy a bunch of tools to be able to work on one of these trucks, since I'm sure a lot of the hardware is larger than what I'm used to dealing with. To give me an idea: I've got a 1/2" drive air impact, is that adequate for most of the stuff, or is the truck just going to laugh at it? What kind of maintenance should I expect to be doing after I get the truck on the road? I'll admit, I still need to look at the TMs in depth, but I imagine real world experience from you all will give me a better idea of what to expect than trying to read a 400+ page manual. On the same token, what do I need to inspect when looking at a truck to buy?


If you've made it this far, thanks for reading! I'm sure more questions will come up, but I think this is enough typing for tonight.


DougB
 

US6x4

Well-known member
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Location
Wenatchee, WA
Yeah, that post is well into TLDR territory (too long, didn't read) but i made it to the end...
The M809 series comes with an NHC-250 which is a non-turbo'd 855 cummins so it can be replaced with higher horse engines from that family like the 350 or 400 Big Cam.

The 814 is a long wheelbase cargo truck and may be longer than the 812 - not sure. The M809s occasionally come with the 20,000 lb pto winch and a winch from another truck could be added to one without if you get all the parts but it's cheaper to get a truck that already has one. An M814 W/W would be a XLWB cargo truck with winch, for example.

Bridge trucks have spacers on all axles between the brake drum and wheel that may need to be removed even with hemmt wheels to be narrow enough.

I have 16.00R20s on my 813 and it does make it substantially more top heavy. Floor of the bed is about 5.5' off the ground.

Highest torque I've come across so far is the 450 ft-lbs for the lugnuts and a good 1/2" impact with lots of air can handle it.
 

Superthermal

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Utah, Murray, United States
I have an M813 and love it. Some items you might want to consider for your choosing.
1.The 809 series 5 speed is not rated for a "hot" motor. I know people who run the HP of a big cam through it but do it "nicely" in an attempt to make it last longer. However, torque ratings are torque ratings and any option you do do with hoping up the engine will lower lifespan.
2.The 809 series transfer-case is an unusual beast. It has the very important to understand "sprag" which demands of the operator to never allow the rig to move backwards when in a forward gear and never move forward in a reverse gear. If you don't follow this or you have a failure of the air valve or sprag actuator the sprag for the front driveshaft will grenade. THis will leave you replacing the transfer-case or a lot of parts.
3.The 809 series bridge trucks were perported to have longer dog bones that if running 16.00R20s would leave you a gap. So far I have only heard people say this is true and I have never seen photo evidence or even measurements of the dog bones so as far as I know of myself this is still hearsay, I started a conversation with a vendor here who gave me interplanetary pricing for these suppoed parts. ThereforeI will eventually build my own either custom dogbones or modify the cast ones on my rig now to get the 5" of gap I would prefer between the tandams to allow chain running on all 6 meats.
4. Making your M809 series rig a daily SAFE work truck... Your going to have some money to put into this even buying a exceptionally well cared for rig. Plan on doing every seal and possibly replace every bearing on the wheels. Also adding a seriously good park brake, as there are obvioiusly for this series no air brakes to keep the rig safely planted when fully loaded. I have heard pinion breaks are fround upon by DOT inspectors and the stock T-case brake is in my opinion a joke for any actual need to keep the rig planted when on an angle of any kind. I have plans to put dual pinion brakes on mine with air release disc brake calipers that are standard on semi trucks now adays. I know someone persionally who put air brakes onto an M809 series and loved the conversion. It is just a safe way to go.
5. Winch. Not sure what you will be using it for so my advice would be limited. If it is only to get you unstuck then you can do any option ofcoarse. I would value the PTO above all as it is solid and has unlimited continuous use capabilities as well as 250' of 5/8" cable. Hydraulic is similar and would require parts from a 939 series to just "bolt-on". With Electric would be by far the simplest to install and to use. but you would definitly want to upgrade the generator to an alternator to something above the 24Volt 60 amp unit it comes with. However most batteries like the 8Ds I run in mine can only handle a 60 amp charge without being damaged, so do your homework. For me, I want the PTO, even with it being alot of a pain to actually run. The main reason for this is if I ever set up to winch a convoy of 20 or so vehicles up a 100 feet of a steep stretch of mountain side the hydraulic and the electric in my view will have their downsides. Again this is only my unique opinion and if a Stallion 25k winch showed up at my door for free I might just well mount it up. I still need a fair number of parts to get my PTO setup finalized.
6. I do not know enough about the bridge truck width to give you any help there.
7. Your going to spend some serious money. Like lots of it getting your rig the way you want. LIke more money than you want to spend and then more from there. From wipers to fuel lines to power mods to exhaust, to seals, to cab features to headlights to paint, to tires, to lugnuts, to wheel studs, like nearly 15 gallons of gear oil aint cheep, batteries, wire, filters, Fuel, Oh ya you need to pay for fuel by the mile... to tools... yes lots of bigger than anything you owned before tools, and everything is double or tipple to ship because it weighs 100 or more pounds for anything. LOL... and the list that I made myself is like miles long and I am working on it with that twitching eye and half baked smile. ;)
8. My M813 is freaking cool. It wheels incredibly well for a 23,000 lb rig. Wife thinks it is a waste of money and time... and has got me in hot water with the love of my life several times already. LOL. The reason I chose the M809 series over the 939 series is simple. Money up front was higher for the 9 series and I didn't like all the extra parts on the 9 series. The 809s are just more basic and therefore have bonus of simplicity and drawbacks of... not sure but there must be some like air brakes, cab size and stuff like that. The 809 fits right in with what I wanted. I did spend significant time looking at rigs from the MK23 down to the M35s. The 809 fit what I was looking for best. But I am not everyone. One of my friends has a ROPS M939 series and it is awesome too and another has the M35 and it rocks as well. Hard to go wrong with a 5 ton.

My 2 cents. Best wishes and good hunting.
 
Last edited:

msgjd

Well-known member
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Location
upstate ny
The 809 series transfer-case is an unusual beast. It has the very important to understand "sprag" which demands of the operator to never allow the rig to move backwards when in a forward gear and never move forward in a reverse gear.
please don't forget rolling backwards in neutral is also a no-no for the sprag ;)

i know you know this , but the poster needs to understand the sprag poppet is activated by the transmission lever reverse position and by its neutral position.. Neutral position takes care of the fwd gears by default
 

G744

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Hidden Valley, Az
Too bad you're way East in MO.

I have a 5-ton tractor, Mack END673 engine (the best, BTW). It's a project rig, and needs to be put together.

For my asking price of $1,500 here in AZ, it's not a bad deal.

Also FS is an 900-series hydraulic winch for an additional $500.

If interested, shoot me a PM and we can go from there.

Dennis
 
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