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Central FL M1031 project

biscuitwhistler37

biscuitwhistler37

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Ugh..... I liked the eye bolt in the head stud hole idea mentioned above, until I saw what angles the eye bolts would be at.

I wouldn't think a headless engine would be heavy enough to crush a pan, especially if you used a 4"-6" wide strap, but can't say for sure.

Carc might be on to it, drop the pan and pump, (assuming the oil pump is lower than the bottom of the block), wrap a strap basket style and lift. Most effort, least likely to fail.

Either way, ugh.....
 
CARC686

CARC686

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The critical part being to reassemble it out of the truck and install it complete on chains with the cherry picker, because I've no faith in the ability to stay on axis trying to lower the block back into the mounts wearing a diaper made out of a tow strap. There's no telling how the wraps will shift when they come under load. Even in the unlikely event that it was to line right back up, the straps could migrate into pinch points. An engine stand is a pretty important piece of the puzzle.
 
deank

deank

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Well, today was productive. Block is now out and on the engine stand. Ready for cleaning and reassembly.
This time while I have it out, I am going to remove the starter solenoid wire from the engine harness and run it across the cab firewall with other wiring, then down to the starter.
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N

nyoffroad

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You pulled the engine with the radiator in place? Personally, I would have pulled the radiator and given serious thought to removing the core support, it's not that many bolts and you wouldn't have to lift the engine so high. In the past I've pulled the engine and tranny out the front, that was HEAVY! I usually use a couple bolts near the water pump or the lift ring .
 
deank

deank

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Today I was finally able to get back in the shop. I had a rotator cuff repair on 22 April. Still technically in a sling. I had my grandson and one of his mechanically inclined friends come over today to help reassemble the engine. Good progress was made and they did a really good job of listening, reading, and following instructions to be my hands today.

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My school recently reassigned some parking spaces. I got my old sign and modified it. I will put in on a light pole in a grassy area near my classroom for the days I drive the M1031 to school.

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deank

deank

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Making good progress going back together. I have made a change in the wiring harness. I have gotten tired of struggling with the small wire to the starter solenoid. So, to ease my struggles in the future I have pulled that wire out of the engine harness and routed it to the passenger side firewall to go back to the starter. Because it is such a PITA to remove and install the wire I installed a connector so the next time I have to pull the starter I can unplug the wire and remove it with the starter. I think I will also just remove the starter with the main hot wire installed.
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deank

deank

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The engine is alive again!

cooling system has been well flushed, new coolant is in. Going to run it every day and make sure it burps well. Then it will be time to put the hood back on.

Also experimenting with alternator belts. I only use Gates. The 7575 works for the driver’s side but uses all the travel. Going to try 7565 and 7560 to see which fits best.
 
deank

deank

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A new question has arisen. I have read on several of the threads in this forum about using clear fuel line at the IP return line to watch for bubbles. I installed one today as I was bleeding the system before the restart. I have noticed while it was running that there was a small stream of tiny bubbles and occaisonally larger bubbles. The IP has been rebuilt within the last year. The injectors are original but the engine has 17k miles. The lift pump and filter are new.
Am I supposed to see any bubbles?

Thanks!
 
vanaisa

vanaisa

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deank said:
The engine is alive again!

Also experimenting with alternator belts. I only use Gates. The 7575 works for the driver’s side but uses all the travel. Going to try 7565 and 7560 to see which fits best.
Click to expand...
I used Gates 7570 on drivers side (only one, i had in garage). It is almost too small diameter and hard to install.
 
CARC686

CARC686

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Let it run awhile and see if the bubbles clear up. I don't know that you're not supposed to see any, but it follows that you shouldn't, since using the clear hose to check for bubbles is a diagnostic procedure. Could be a pinhole anywhere or just lost prime. If it's running okay, I would keep an eye on it to see if it goes away, and if it doesn't, then I'd probably pressurize the tank and look for drips.
 
deank

deank

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The truck is running and driving well!
I did find the belts that work best for me.
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7570 for driver’s side, 7480 for passenger. Both a snug fit getting over the pulleys, but more room for adjustment.

I was reading a post about the vacuum regulator valve and how to adjust it. I made the .646” block out of wood and followed other peoples tips about having a string attached for drops into the valley.
Being that I have an M1031, I was able to hold open the throttle with small visegrips on the throttle actuator rod.
My VRV valve would not hold a vacuum at any position, so I am convinced I will have to get a new one eventually. I set it a little CCW from full CW. MY vacuum pump it set close to the passenger side valve cover. I went for a test drive and shifting was smooth and at 25-28 and about 45-50. So I will hold off on the VRV valve for now.

Coolant level has been good. I purposely overfilled the recovery tank to allow for the engine to burp really well over the course of four separate run times. I also carry extra coolant in my POL cabinet.

I have verified that my APECS controller runs my generator at 60hz/120vac and powers my plug in compressor very well. I still think it is running the generator in second gear because RPMs seem very high. I dont know what to do about that or how to tell what gear it is in.

Now I need to find a windshield shop to install the puck on the glass to hold my rear view camera screen. And I need to get back to work on my dual rear camera wiring.

I installed my NOS 4WD switch on the NP205. That was a costly part that I was only able to find on fleabay from Saudi Arabia. $150.
But, now my 4WD light is working perfectly. I did cut a gasket for it (I think the gasket was the part that got the switch height right to work).

That is all for now!
 
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