Preserving Engine Life Expectancy

[dabtl]

I have been working on three deuces of late. Two of mine and one of a friend.

Each time I changed the oil filters, it was easy. No oil in them at all, other than residue. That bothered me.

Each time I changed the fuel filters, it was not so easy. Fooling with the NAPA 5070 gasket problem was an easy fix. Just order them and wait a day or so for delivery. The cleaning out of the rusty crap in the bottom of the filter cans bothered me each time.

The engine life of the multi-fuel has been noted as short many times. I wonder, however, if some minor changes can change this significantly?

I do not like waiting for oil pressure to build. Hence, I got the jatonka spin on oil filters. Will this solve for the most part the dry starts? It seems to me to be logical. They do not leave a great deal of residue about on changing, if a paper towel around the base is used. Easy as the stock to change, perhaps easier.

The jatonka spin on primary fuel filter allows me to essentially toss the filter can at will and replace that with a new filter and can each time, eliminating the rust factor.

I kind of hope this will pay dividends in the form of longer engine life. Rust and no oil pressure surely takes a toll in the long run on the life of these motors, it seems to me. Perhaps I am too obsessive about it, but it seems to me we should take the precautions which are available to us.

 

[OD_Coyote]

I have the Jatonka spin-on filters on my M35 and the time for the oil pressure to register during a cold start is cut in half when compared to the stock canister filter setup. IMHO dereasing the time for oil pressure to register has to help contribute to the longevity of you engine.
Also, I just changed the oil and filters on my deuce yesterday and it took longer for the oil to drain out of the oil pan than it did for me the change the oil filters. BTW - I am using the NAPA gold 1458 oil filters on my truck.

 

[bottleworks]

I pre-luber along with an oil filter upgrade will also help.

 

[dabtl]

I am looking for a pre-lube system at this time. I am not certain which to choose from, however.

I think an electric powered set up would be the easier to use.

Have you installed a pre-lube system from a supplier, or did you simply make one? I am a lawyer, not an engineer or electrician, even with Bjorn's help.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

dabti wrote:

I have been working on three deuces of late. Two of mine and one of a friend.

Each time I changed the oil filters, it was easy. No oil in them at all, other than residue. That bothered me.

Each time I changed the fuel filters, it was not so easy. Fooling with the NAPA 5070 gasket problem was an easy fix. Just order them and wait a day or so for delivery. The cleaning out of the rusty crap in the bottom of the filter cans bothered me each time.

The engine life of the multi-fuel has been noted as short many times. I wonder, however, if some minor changes can change this significantly?

I do not like waiting for oil pressure to build. Hence, I got the jatonka spin on oil filters. Will this solve for the most part the dry starts? It seems to me to be logical. They do not leave a great deal of residue about on changing, if a paper towel around the base is used. Easy as the stock to change, perhaps easier.

The jatonka spin on primary fuel filter allows me to essentially toss the filter can at will and replace that with a new filter and can each time, eliminating the rust factor.

I kind of hope this will pay dividends in the form of longer engine life. Rust and no oil pressure surely takes a toll in the long run on the life of these motors, it seems to me. Perhaps I am too obsessive about it, but it seems to me we should take the precautions which are available to us.

Are we to assume that you are a fan of the Jatonka oil and fuel filters?

 

[dabtl]

You bet. In Texas we do not have sub-zero temps often. The virtually immediate oil pressure seems to me to be really great. I have read the posts involving the possibility of congealed oil at low pressures bypassing the filters. But, on the whole, I think that is a small trade as logic would seem to indicate that pressure would build just as with the stock filters, slowly, until the motor heated. You may think differently, and that might be instructive to all of us.

As for the spin on fuel filters, rust in the fuel seems to me to be not a good idea. With the spin on primary, I dump it in a couple of seconds, rust and all. I just hope that spin on secondary fuel filters come around at some point to eliminate all of the rust problems, I hope.

I do not mean to start a fight with anyone, but it sure seems that if I have a prelube pump, jatonka filters and some luck, the engine might last for years.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

The only reason I didn't originally go with the Jatonka filter system was because of the micron ratings. It wasn't until much later that I learned about the possible cold weather disadvantaes of Jatonka's filter system.

The Jatonka system greatly reduces dry start problems but IMHO it leaves a little to be desired optimally (over 5 micron spin on filters) when it comes to the micron factor.

Years ago, when these trucks were built, when you pulled the oil pan off an engine you found crud in the bottom of the pan. New, modern high detergent oils keep the crud in suspension so modern, high efficiency filters can remove it. If it isn't removed because of high micron ratings on the filters the "crud" constantly circulates through the engine instead of ending up in the bottom on the pan. IMHO running modern oil with earlier designed filters is not good.

The Jatonks filter system is a definite improvement, especially in non arctic climates. Add an amsoil bypass filter to the mix and THEN you've got something that should allow an engine to last for years.

If you add a prelube pump wou wouldn't necessarily need the instant oil pressure benefit that the Jatonka filter system offers.

Just my 2-cents worth

 

[dabtl]

I believe you are correct about the pre-lube system adding instant pressure, although the jatonka system does just that. And, I am not certain about a 5 micron filter system being that much more of an improvement. But, I truly doubt we will achieve perfection anyway.

I looked at the Amsoil system earlier. Which would you choose? It seems to work on loading a canister with oil at pressure and releasing that before cranking. Not much of a system compared with a pressure pump running from the oil pan which could continue running after the engine shuts down to cool the turbo.

I really think a pump connected to the oil pan and into the system would be preferable.

 

[OPCOM]

5 microns is why I went with Ethan's (Builder77's) kit may he RIP, and if I had to do it again, would go with a low-micron kit especially in TX where it is not too dang cold.

An advantage that is good to add to a low-micron filter is high flow capacity. The capacity for instance of each of the two WIX 51970XE 5 micron filters on my truck is 28GPM, which should reduce pressure drop and avoid possibe bypassing when oil is cold.

A pre-post lube is also something I'd push. I'm happy to have one!

 

[desertfox]

I am using the Amsoil filter system. Noted to be a 2 micron filter and easy to mount. I am going to mount in the drivers side wheel well close to the tool box. I have machined 1"X14tpiX3" bolts and cut down the original oil filter canisters. Temps get pretty low up in on the mountain so will also be looking at a pre-lube system in the near future. I will also be using Amsoil gear lube.

 

[dabtl]

My problem is not filter cleaning size, although that is important, but oil pressure and flow. The problem that I see is 1) cooling the turbo, 2) oil pressure at start up, 3) ease of replacement and finally oil filter micrometer filter size. Any thing is better than the stock set up.

Amsoil seems to be just a pressurized system for starting. Good, but what about cooling the turbo?

Perhaps someone will make pressure kit and a flow kit to both cool the turbo and have pressure at the start? No one has yet so far as I can tell.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

I'm also running the 1970 (5 micron - 28 GPM) spin on filters. There is also an amsoil bypass filter and a pre-lube system.

The Amsoil filter is shown in the attached picture. It's the black filter directly behind the ether bottle on the firewall. The pre-lub pump is shown the foreground.

I've got mechanical oil pressure gauges installed pre-filter, post filter and at the turbo.

I've also installed a spin-on fuel filter assembly --- from car quest. After having a fuel jell problem I installed fuel pressure gauges pre and post primary filter. By looking at the pressure readings I can tell of I'm starting to have a fuel problem and whether it's with the primary fuel filter or the in-tank pump.

 

[zak]

What is the micron rating of the stock oil filter?

 

[dabtl]

What is the micron rating of the stock oil filter?

25 microns as opposed to the NAPA 1458, used on the jatonka spin on kit, rated at 16

 

[dabtl]

I'm also running the 1970 (5 micron - 28 GPM) spin on filters. There is also an amsoil bypass filter and a pre-lube system.

The Amsoil filter is shown in the attached picture. It's the black filter directly behind the ether bottle on the firewall. The pre-lub pump is shown the foreground.

I've got mechanical oil pressure gauges installed pre-filter, post filter and at the turbo.

I've also installed a spin-on fuel filter assembly --- from car quest. After having a fuel jell problem I installed fuel pressure gauges pre and post primary filter. By looking at the pressure readings I can tell of I'm starting to have a fuel problem and whether it's with the primary fuel filter or the in-tank pump.

That is an incredible amount of engineering. Wow With the temp yesterday around 65 the worry about diesel jelling here was minimal.

 

[sprucemt]

The micron, officially obsolete as a term of measurement, is sometimes used by microchip and wiring manufacturers in place of micrometer, one-millionth of a meter. The micron or micrometer can also be expressed as:

• 10-6 meter
• One thousandth of a millimeter
• One 25th of a thousandth of an inch

The micron or micrometer is a unit of measure for the core in optical fiber, for which the most common diameter is 62.5 micrometers. It is also used to measure the line width on a microchip. Intel's Pentium 4 microprocessors are built using 0.18 or 0.13 micrometer line widths. AMD'sAthlon uses a 0.18 line width.

A human hair is said to be about 50 micrometers wide.