Floor mats?

[Dabba]

anyone use some sort of floor mat or tempory mat? Im chipping up my paint in my floor pretty good and i think im gonna rattlecan it for now, how do you guys deal with this?

 

[Midnight Rider]

I'm thinking of Rhino lining mine once I get some rust spots and leaks taken care of. I'm not sure how much it would cost though.

 

[hobie237]

I ripped out the floormats. The last thing I need is for dirt to get under there and hold water to rust out the floor. Sooner or later I'll Rhino line it, maybe. Other than that, some touchup spray paint where/when necessary will do the trick. If replacement floor mats are desired, any junkyard should have some, and if not, LMC Truck or 90% of the aftermarket interior companies should have something.

 

[84cucv1ton]

a friend had his truck sprayed. think it was about 600

 

[hobie237]

That's way more than I figured it would be, but I was planning to get one of the DIY kits anyway, since they're between $100 and $150.

 

[goldneagle]

I'm thinking of Rhino lining mine once I get some rust spots and leaks taken care of. I'm not sure how much it would cost though.

You can get the same stuff from your local auto parts store. There are various brands on the market. Advancedauto sells a roll-on or spray versions. $9 a rattle can. $68 for the roll on gallon kit with roller and tray included! Brand is Dupli-Color. They have some nice how to videos on-line.

I bought the stuff to coat the metal floor inside the expandable box of my M820A2. I may do the floor in the cab at a later date when i can sandblast it clean. It requires 70 degree temperature for proper adhesion.

BTW Rhino dealer wanted $10+ per sq. ft to do the back of my truck! It was over $1600. Figuring no more that 3 gallons of PAINT that is a lot of PROFIT for them! ($55/gal on Ebay shipped!)



Tomorrow should be 71 here so I will try to apply it and let you know how it works out.

 

[lavarok]

I used 2 gallons of Plasti-kote, bought from Wal-mart on my m1009. Cost around $120 with extra brushes. Take out the seats and spend a day brushing it in. You wont be disappointed. Just make sure you scuff the factory paint and remove any grease, oil, or fuel from the surface as it will bubble up and peel off if not prepped properly.

The last pic is of Line-X in my Dodge pickup. Line-X is great stuff, but I think its overkill for the inside of a m1009. However, I don't think there is a better product out there for the bed of a pickup. If I had a m1008, it would be Line-X'ed. One day, I hope to do my deuce bed.

 

[MilitaryRestoration]

I've had a few of my trucks bed liner'd and Line-X has held up the best. After 10 yrs one of the trucks just now finally got a skuff so took it to them and they fixed no charge.

 

[Midnight Rider]

I had only thought of going the Rhino Lining route because my sister owns a Rhino Lining franchise.

Unfortunately, it's about a 6-7hr drive from where I live.

I might go with the roll-on stuff instead. Did you unbolt everything from inside your 09? I noticed that in one pic, the black metal bar in front of the rear seat is not covered. Did you remove it? Did you just do the floor or did you do the roof as well?

 

[bulldog_mack13]

I got the mossy oak floor mats in my big trucks...

 

[lavarok]

Did you unbolt everything from inside your 09? I noticed that in one pic, the black metal bar in front of the rear seat is not covered. Did you remove it? Did you just do the floor or did you do the roof as well?

We removed everything we could unbolt or unscrew, including the black kick panel you mention. We did not remove the rear seat belts for fear the bolt heads would strip. They are in there to stay!

I sanded the black kick panel and seat bases, then painted them satin black. The satin black matches nicely with the finish of the bed liner. We covered from the front kick panels all the way back; including the inside tailgate and up the sides of the inside bed. We kept the bed liner under the topper, see photo. The bed liner does a great job of hiding welds, so cut out and fix any spots that are bad. There are a couple patch jobs in my truck and with the bedliner installed you would never know.

Eventually, the inside doors, panels, and top will be painted.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Nice.

Thanks for the info.

I'm leaning more towards going that way instead of the Rhino Lining.

 

[dependable]

I take out the seat and wash out the spilled food ect. Painted any rust with anhydrous black chasis coating. Then I put down some Raamat butyl & aluminum sound deadener. all around lower part & back of cab, Paint with carc subsitute. I use original type vynel mat from chevy resoration catalogue. This is important: replace door seals, costs less than $40 including glue. This keeps water out of cab and helps with rust. Remember, these trucks are over 20 years old, so even mint ones will need seals replaced.

 

[AJMBLAZER]

You can get the same stuff from your local auto parts store. There are various brands on the market. Advancedauto sells a roll-on or spray versions. $9 a rattle can. $68 for the roll on gallon kit with roller and tray included! Brand is Dupli-Color. They have some nice how to videos on-line.

I bought the stuff to coat the metal floor inside the expandable box of my M820A2. I may do the floor in the cab at a later date when i can sandblast it clean. It requires 70 degree temperature for proper adhesion.

BTW Rhino dealer wanted $10+ per sq. ft to do the back of my truck! It was over $1600. Figuring no more that 3 gallons of PAINT that is a lot of PROFIT for them! ($55/gal on Ebay shipped!)



Tomorrow should be 71 here so I will try to apply it and let you know how it works out.

The stuff at the stores (Duplicolor, Herculiner, etc) IS NOT the same as Rhino Liner and LineX type stuff. I've had both and currently have Herc on my Tracker. The cheaper stuff you roll on is more like a paint with particles of something in it. The spray on stuff is a thick coating of some sort of poly material. You get what you pay for but depending on your needs and budget you can be served well by either.
Just saying don't spend $120 on Herculiner or Duplicolor and expect a 1/4" thick sound deadening, hard to scuff, bedliner like Rhino Liner or LineX.

Also, call around. Some bedliner places don't want to do technical stuff while others love it. I've got a Rhino Liner guy near me who's done my old pickup's bed, did a friends' bed, did a bumper for me and a trailer hitch. He did the bumper for like $40 and the hitch for $75 including painting it with Rust Bullet. He does the odd projects when he's doing a vehicle that will not use all of a ration of the Rhino Liner material so he sprays them and then does the miscelanious stuff also. He doesn't waste material and it saves him and me money.

 

[2mtrucks]

You can purchase a rubber replacement made by Blachford from JC Whitney that is close to OEM for 79.99. I have installed several and was happy with the results. Also, I replaced the original insulation mat beneath it with closed cell foam matting as it does not hold water, unlike the original which becomes a sponge and rots your floor out. A place called Browns of Two Rivers (Wisconsin) sells something similar.