M1009 driver side engine noise

[HardCorps79]

So, the M1009 has been running great, changed the oil, air & fuel filters. All other fluid levels are good. But the weather has been below 30 degrees for the past 3 weeks. This morning, when I started her, she fired right up, but sounded pretty rough. Lots of engine rattle and growl. With the throttle pressed, everything is smooth, but when idling, it sounds like a washing machine agitator is rotating on the driver's side of the engine in time with the RPMs. Any ideas? Is this just due to the cold, or should I be looking for some kind of a problem? The noise is more apparent from inside the cab than from standing outside looking under the hood. A cursory glance under the hood didn't reveal any shuddering loose components, but I didn't have time to really dig in, as I had to get to work.

 

[HardCorps79]

*bump*:stir pot:

 

[Michael]

Did you go to work in it and did the noise go away when it warmed up?

 

[Armada]

Did the noise lessen as it warmed up? They do sound like they're rattling apart when first started in very cold temps.

 

[HardCorps79]

I only had it running for about 15 minutes. I always wait until the high-idle kicks down before I drive off. Only have a 1.3 mile drive to work, but I let it run in the parking lot for another 10 minutes. It was running for 20 minutes total and was still thrumming pretty hard when I shut if off. The general engine noise smoothed out after a while, but not the "washing machine" noise. It's only supposed to get up to 40 degress today, so I'll see how it sounds when I head home for lunch in a bit. Will update the post in a few hours.

 

[Armada]

Washing machine noise...... hmmmmm. Like a noisy bearing? Alternator, water pump? Power steering pump reservoir full?

 

[HardCorps79]

Alright so I drove it home from work for lunch and didn't seem to have any issues. The noise is gone for now. The fluids, including the P/S reservoir, are all good, and it was worse when it was idling than when driving, so I'm pretty sure it's not a wheel bearing. It wasn't a liquid-type noise, more an oscillating thrum. Like I said, the start-up was really rough and loud this morning (sounded like a 38 Ford)- due to the cold.

Have a couple questions though-
When I start it, the Gen 1 light typically comes on, but goes out with just a tiny bit of throttle. Is this normal?

The voltmeter doesn't kick into the green until I get a pop from under the dash. (Starter or GP relay?), then it will fall back to yellow, then pop once or twice more before it stays green. I think this is normal. Am I wrong? Again, couldn't find anything in the user manual (but then again, the beers may have interfered).

I've been waiting until the high-idle kicks down before driving it (usually 2-5 minutes, longer when cold- dependent on the temp sensor, right?). Is this required? Couldn't find anything in the user manual (but I might have missed something).

And finally, when looking to buy a spare GP card to keep around (JIC), is this the same as the item being sold as a GP "modulator"?

 

[Michael]

Have a couple questions though-
When I start it, the Gen 1 light typically comes on, but goes out with just a tiny bit of throttle. Is this normal?

yes

The voltmeter doesn't kick into the green until I get a pop from under the dash. (Starter or GP relay?), then it will fall back to yellow, then pop once or twice more before it stays green. I think this is normal.

yes GP relay

I've been waiting until the high-idle kicks down before driving it (usually 2-5 minutes, longer when cold- dependent on the temp sensor, right?). Is this required?

yes and probably not

And finally, when looking to buy a spare GP card to keep around (JIC), is this the same as the item being sold as a GP "modulator"?

No unless they specifically say it is for a CUCV. The civi one is different.

 

[2deuce]

I'm also experiencing a similar whurring noise in the front of my 6.2. Maybe we have a similar problem. My hearing is not the best. The belts and pulleys look to run smooth when idling and its worse when its cold also but it doesn't go away when warm. I'm interested in what you find out. The alts both charge on my truck. I'm thinking I have a bearing going out somewhere. If I remove one belt at a time to see if one of the alternators is the cause, is this ok to do? If I want to start the engine without the water pump how long can this safely be done on a cold engine?
I've looked at alot of 6.2's and it seems like most have the fan shroud broken out at the bottom is this from throwing belts?

Thanks

 

[StreetbikeDepot]

Kinda sounds like the flex plate, I just had to replace mine and it started the same way, a rattle and a slight bad bearing feeling in the floor board, then it got more frequent(would come and go depending on load on the motor)...... then all hell broke loose and I thought I trashed the motor....LOL

Fixed now and its smoother than ever.

 

[HardCorps79]

Well, the weather warmed up and no further problems. How much of a PITA was the flex plate replacement? $$? I don't really think this will be a problem, but I'm a bit of a neurotic boy scout. I like to be prepared for anything (hence the footlocker filling up with spare CUCV parts).

 

[5_TON_TOMATOE]

Flex plates are pretty cheap, and if you have dexterity in your finger tips, and a lot of patience, you can do it without removing the trans, if you have an inspection cover. Tranny comes loose from the block along with the mounts, and there is JUST enough room to do it. I would suggest a valium before trying. Otherwise, its a pull everything deal from trans back. At least that way you can use a torque wrench when you tighten up the new plate.