Open the front hatch onthe engine in front of the truck and there is a manual fuel pump lever you can pump to prime the fuel line.
Yeah found that, and after I connected the lines properly (stupid me, stupid me, stupid me...
) it worked within seconds. It's all new lines made to fit to the original connectors on the tanks, fuel pump, injects, etc.
Where is the air reg located you are talking about. It the air blowoff valve ?oil seperater the one on the very back of the truck on the passanger side? it spits air every now and again? I was wandering what exactly that valve did, I was thinking it dumped air in the line when the pressure got too high, assuming the compressor pumps all the time. I should look at a diagram I guess to figure it out. Are you having any luck finding generic seals to rebuild them? or are you finding tatra rebuild kits?
The air regulator is the one on the passenger side all the way near the back. I forgot to take some pics for you, sorry. There's two units there, the first one is a bowl with a spring valve and a push knob on top. The lid screws off easy, well it should anyway, and there should be fluid in there.
From my understanding of the very limited details on the air system in my manual, it might be the Anti Freeze pump, which has to be filled with antifreeze. It does not specify any special fluid for it, so I will ask our local truck parts dealer. If I'm right, what it does is when you push the knob down it lets some antifreeze into the air system, which (obiously) prevents air lines freezing up to somewhere around -60 celcius, according to the manual.
The second one (the one most to the rear) is the pressure regulator and I think the oil separator too (not sure though). Theres a plastic pyramid shape cap on there. If you remove that it reveals a screw with a nut to secure it. You can undo the nut and turn the screw in and out to set the pressure at which it blows off. I left the engine running, screwed it in, and waited for the pressure to climb to little over 6 bar (manual states it should be set to 5.8 to 6 bar). Then ran to the back of the truck and unscrewed it untill it blew off. Now my air pressure is showing a nice 6 bar
Lock it with the nut and reseat the plastic cover, done!
There's a big bowl under the pressure regulator, which I thik is the oil separator. It has a plastic unit in that creates a few levels of "obstacles" for the air to pass through, and a piece of filter. It definately serves no purpose for the pressure, so thats why I assumed it to be the oil separator.
For the power steering use automatic transmission fluid. If you look further back in the thread I had a bunch of the fluid questions answered you were asking about. If you cant figure it out let me know I have most of them writtendown.
I was looking for those all over this thread but only found your question, not the answers. Will look again, and refill the streering with ATF.
By the way you may actually be in high range, the 1st gear in high range is still extremely low. I wasnt really happy with how fst and ease of shifting and the power of the truck until I really got the shifting down using the splitter correctly. Your drivers manual will tell you how. You dont have to double clutch except in first but I do it always anyway the splitter works a lot better that way.
My splitter has been professionally disconnected by the previous owner (read: they cut the wires). Have not fixed that yet. The 5 gears in low range got me through all terrain I've encountered so far, the 5 in high got me up to speed quite nicely. Expecially in high I notice I do need a working splitter, when you're working up the gears it's midly protesting.
For replacing the air lines I was thinking about using "hep2o" (
Hep2O® The Flexible Push-fit Plastic Plumbing System From Wavin). That site only goes on about their range for plumbing though, can't find the professional stuff. It's used often for air pressure lines in workshops. It's a breeze to install since its all "cut to length, screw to fit" stuff. It should withstand well up to 12bar pressure, so all fine there.
Downsides are that the lines and connectors are quite big, and with all the fittings and stuff it'll get quite costly.
The other option is to get regular truck air lines and connectors, which sells for about $1.50 per metre. Main argument to use these is that theyre special made for trucks and trailers, not as expensive, and come colorized. The colorized bit is very interesting, I could use red for brakes, yellow for the tire inflation, blue for the solenoids, orange for the system to pressurize gearsbox and diffs, etc. Makes for easier problem tracking, which right now is a downright nightmare with something like 25 different rusty air lines running all over the place.
I'll go over my manual again to find how to check and refill the hub oil, and what oil to use. Assuming heavy gear oil, but will have to double check. I recall reading the amounts of oil used (0.5 litre for the front 4, 0.7 for the rear 4 wheels, I think), but I dont know where to drain and refill yet.
Time to get to the garage!
but got most of it done.
