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Anyone ever install a nos m1009 rear end?

dunedigger

Member
264
2
18
Location
Hart, MI
I just ordered a M1009 surplus nos rear end and it's on the way. It's said to be complete drum to drum with e brake cables and all. I'm concerned about the seals and brake parts from sitting. Anyone install one of these or know if it's ok to just throw them in and go?
 

joeypushjr1

New member
367
1
0
Location
tallmadge ohio
well obvisoly i would check all those things and all the lines ... but ive never bought that way .. colemans has complete drum to drum rear ends and fronts not rebuilt. new. rears i think 395 and frints are 295 not bad for what you get you know and you knw the condition i dont know what you paied but for future... my 2cents
 

dunedigger

Member
264
2
18
Location
Hart, MI
well obvisoly i would check all those things and all the lines ... but ive never bought that way .. colemans has complete drum to drum rear ends and fronts not rebuilt. new. rears i think 395 and frints are 295 not bad for what you get you know and you knw the condition i dont know what you paied but for future... my 2cents
That's where I bought it.
 

airmech

Member
47
0
6
Location
Vincentown NJ
As long as it has been properly stored, it should be good to go. I haven't installed a NOS diff, but just finished (DEC) installing a NOS engine assembly in my F250, it was built and crated in 1996. I had to make a few minor changes to use it in a 1988, but it's perfect so far.
 

NPD732

New member
54
1
0
Location
Chesapeake VA
I havn't installed one, but with proper storage the brakes and seals should be fine. Just pull the drums off and make sure everything looks good. You will need to take the brake hard line and clips from your old rear and transfer them to the new one. The rear will need gear oil and the proper posi additive.
 

dunedigger

Member
264
2
18
Location
Hart, MI
I havn't installed one, but with proper storage the brakes and seals should be fine. Just pull the drums off and make sure everything looks good. You will need to take the brake hard line and clips from your old rear and transfer them to the new one. The rear will need gear oil and the proper posi additive.

Have the gear oil waiting and picked up some limited slip additive from gm sat. I was hoping the hard lines were on it. I'll just make some new ones.
 

JohnFire

Member
336
4
18
Location
Pottsville, PA
Just installed one a couple months ago from coleman's. Not sure how they stored it but it did have surface rust on it. Ran the wire wheel over it quick and painted it black quick. Knock on wood I have had no problems. Just bolted it in with new U-bolts. If I would have had the time I would have gone with saturn surplus cause their are kept in a warehouse. I know that since he couldn't get me one right away cause he had to retrieve it from one of his warehouses. Price was a little cheaper too but I was in a rush.
 

Wolf.Dose

Active member
1,062
9
38
Location
Boehl-Iggelheim, Germany
To my experiance: trust noboby, check everything!
I have seen factory rebuilt startes with inproper assembly, rebuilding kits with oversized bushings (newly unpacked, factoy falt) carburetors with falty assembly, transmissions with wrong assembly (unshiftable) and so on. This not neccessarily will mean, that all part are wrong assembled. But military surplus and related tells me to belive only what I have checked.
This is not limited to US parts, this is a world wide phanomena!
Wolf
 

dunedigger

Member
264
2
18
Location
Hart, MI
My axle came in Friday from Colemans surplus. I would expect some surface rust because gm never painted it. It was still bare steel with some ruberized paint on the diff cover and primer around the brake area. I was surprized how well the brakes looked when I took the drums off. Everything looked great. Swapped it out Friday and all went well. Put about 30 miles on it today and all seems well. I think I might swap out the front this summer too. :-D
 

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dunedigger

Member
264
2
18
Location
Hart, MI
nice, just curious, why did you swap it out?

I needed to do a brake job, lol.

Drums $70 ea
E brake cables $20 ea
Pads $40
Spring kit $10
Wheel cylinders (not sure of price)

It also needed a seal on the drivers side because when the brake stuck and I didn't know it, it overheated and leaked gear oil in the brakes. There was the unkown of how good the wheel bearings and gears were and my diff cover was bent from a rock. At $390 for a complete axle it just seemed too good to pass up. I will be doing the same for the front. Ball joints are like $60 bucks ea I think and a hole axle is $298. Just seems the way to go.
 

11Echo

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,224
92
48
Location
CT W. R.
I needed to do a brake job, lol.

Drums $70 ea
E brake cables $20 ea
Pads $40
Spring kit $10
Wheel cylinders (not sure of price)

It also needed a seal on the drivers side because when the brake stuck and I didn't know it, it overheated and leaked gear oil in the brakes. There was the unkown of how good the wheel bearings and gears were and my diff cover was bent from a rock. At $390 for a complete axle it just seemed too good to pass up. I will be doing the same for the front. Ball joints are like $60 bucks ea I think and a hole axle is $298. Just seems the way to go.

Did the $390.00 include shipping? If not, how much was the shipping and handling?
 
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