How should I patch my transmission cooling line?

[gt1009]

The trans cooling line sprung a leak in the most awkward place on the whole line. Its under the engine on top of the crossmember. Its the place where two lines are right next to each other. When I start the truck, fluid shoots out of the leak under pressure. I'm thinking the patch will be a piece of fuel line wrapped around the leak, then epoxy covering the whole thing. What do you guys think, or is there a better way than this?

 

[m.walker]

Cut the line and use a compression coupler , should cost less than $5 or $10 .

 

[Avn-Tech]

GT1009,

To add to the previous post.

Cut the line where the hole is, put new fittings on each side, then use a union to reconnect the line. If the line is too short, buy a short section of line at any auto parts store to replace the missing section.

You could use compression fittings or use flair fittings (I prefer flair fittings). Even if you buy a flair tool kit pirce is probably under $20.00. This is a full fix and should not ever give you trouble again if done properly.

You may want to check the length of the lines and be sure there are no more rub spots to wear and cause problems later.

Laterrrrr
Avn-Tech

 

[jeepin]

Mine had the same problem. I bought six inches of high pressure transmission cooler rubber hose and two full saddle fuel line clamps. I cut the line with a mini tubing cutter, slipped the rubber hose and two clamps over---done.

 

[ctmustang]

unless you have experience flaring line go with compression couplers we use them at the garage when cust. doesnt want to spend a little extra money. rubber hose and clamps wont work -there is nothing to keep the hose and clamps from sliding one way or the other.

 

[gt1009]

Thanks guys. This will all work on the steel lines right? Looks like I'm gonna have to fix it on wednesday now. Family trip for the next two days.

 

[ida34]

I would replace the whole line in one piece. You would sill need probably need to cut and flare one end but if part of the line gave up the rest may not be far behind. I have used both rubber trans hose and compression unions in the past. I would lean toward the compression union if you are not going to replace the whole line. I did the compression union and the rubber hose when I was younger. Now I want to make sure I do not have to do the repair over again so I just replace the whole line. If I had to use a union I would use a regular union using a flare tool for the repair. Hoses have a tendancy to pop off without a barb to hold on to it. You could just double clamp but I really hate using a hose when one can use a hard union. What ever you decide, good luck with the repair.

 

[mrcucv]

a cheap way to do it is to cut out the damaged piece and clamp a rubber hose on perhaps a fuel hose because its braided and stronger.

 

[Hilburn417]

I need to patch the rubber hose on my transmission coolant lines how and what can i use to do that untill i can get it fixed.

 

[cucvrus]

A hose clamp and another piece of hose. Then make a new line out of steel as soon as you can.

 

[Hilburn417]

A hose clamp and another piece of hose. Then make a new line out of steel as soon as you can.

The line's are not steel that are going into the radiator. They are rubber. So just put some kinda of rubber hose over it. And clamp it down

 

[cucvrus]

No take the leaking rubber line off and replace it with another piece of rubber line the same size. That is a temporary repair at best.

 

[Hilburn417]

No take the leaking rubber line off and replace it with another piece of rubber line the same size. That is a temporary repair at best.

Can i use any type of rubber. Because the auto part stor near me don't carry the lines and thru dealer is hundred bucks.

 

[cucvrus]

I would say it is safe to use rubber automotive grade fuel line. It would be better to bend a new set of fitted steel lines and make them fit properly. I do not use any rubber lines on any transmission lines unless it is fitted hydraulic line. Do as you wish. But most metal lines that have rubber in them are just cut steel lines with no barbs or anything to help hold the rubber securely. The transmission can start leaking and bleed out while you are driving and you would have no clue until failure because these old trucks have nothing to indicate transmission failure or temperature.

 

[4x4 Forever]

Rubber hose for a very temp repair and Replace with new steel line soonest.
The rubber will slip off the ends of the lines and dump all of your trans fluid and then you will have fried trans...

Try Summit Racing...

 

[TGP (IL)]

Replace the line and be done with it.
Or install a compression fitting.

BTW they do make specific trans. cooler line hose. Fuel line hose will work but
Can't take the heat for long.
Tom

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Mine had the same problem. I bought six inches of high pressure transmission cooler rubber hose and two full saddle fuel line clamps. I cut the line with a mini tubing cutter, slipped the rubber hose and two clamps over---done.

Done, and good for many years. I've used this method many times. Have that setup on my Jeep at the moment. I didn't have a leak; I put it there to facilitate flushing out the old fluid. It's been there two years. There's not a lot of pressure in those lines.

Don't make it complicated. It doesn't need to be.

 

[the skull]

If you have a brake line flare tool kit, single flare the line before you
put the rubber line on it. I've done it a few times

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I've done that, and had the flare cut into the inside of the line. If you can do a bubble flare, it won't cause any problems.

 

[Chaski]

Braided stainless hose is another option, in conjunction with some AN fittings. Jegs and Summit both sell braded hose that will survive hot ATF for a long time. I think I used -06 sized hose on mine.