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Tools for bobbing a deuce

jrou111

New member
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Location
Birmingham, AL
So I'm thinking about bobbing one of my deuces, and I've got the steps down to:

1. Jack up rear, support with blocks.
2. Remove rear axles, cut out rivets, chop up frame.
3. Bolt in M105 springs/mounts onto frame using grade 8 hardware.
4. Bolt on axle to springs, attach driveshaft/brake lines.
5. Install M105 bed or cut down stock one.

Anything I'm missing here?

Here's some of the tools I have for this job:

1. 3 ton floor jack
2. 2 x 10 ton bottle jacks
3. 2 x High lift jacks
4. 2 ton engine hoist (cherry picker)
5. 4" and 9" angle grinders and flap discs, wirebrush, etc
6. 40amp Plasma cutter
7. 60gal 240v 15cfm@90psi compressor
8. Lots of airtools (impacts, chisel, etc.)
9. Crappy 120v 90amp welder (but I learned to stick weld on it)

Is there anything else I would need to bob a deuce? The only thing I can think of is a better welder, which I could always rent one.
 

bottleworks

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Central NC
120V welders aren't real welders.
How would you rate your welding skill? How would others rate it?

Don't take this the wrong way, but most people who take on projects like your proposing already know what skill and tooling it takes. Those who don't know, need to wait and build up on those assets before attempting such tasks. 2cents
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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I don't think that is necessarily the case BW.

Do you have a tractor or something to move the heavy components? Also, the 105 springs mount differently and need (I think) a 3" block to make the truck sit level. Look through Ranchhopper's posts to find the correct spacer hight.
 

jrou111

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Birmingham, AL
120V welders aren't real welders.
How would you rate your welding skill? How would others rate it?

Don't take this the wrong way, but most people who take on projects like your proposing already know what skill and tooling it takes. Those who don't know, need to wait and build up on those assets before attempting such tasks. 2cents

You gotta be kidding me :roll: This isn't THAT complex of a project. We're not talking about brain surgery here. The only element that makes this project difficult is the weight of the parts.

I guess I deserve to get ridiculed for asking questions and planning ahead. :roll:
 

jrou111

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Birmingham, AL
Do you have a tractor or something to move the heavy components? Also, the 105 springs mount differently and need (I think) a 3" block to make the truck sit level. Look through Ranchhopper's posts to find the correct spacer hight.
Nothing but the 2 ton hoist. But by the time I start this project, I'll more than likely have a towbar (I need one anyway) or have built gin poles for one of my winch trucks.

Thanks for the help, I forgot about the spacer needed when using 105 spring mounts (because of the spacing)
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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2 ton hoist should be ok, as long as you have something to hang it from. :-D BobH, the 105 springs have been used many times. Sounds like you should be good to go. I never thought to ask, do most people weld or bolt the rear spring perches on for this swap?
 

Warthog

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OKC, OK
You forgot to mention removing the bed. A cherry picker may not be big enough to remove it. How does everyone else remove the bed? I plan on using a M816 wrecker for mine. (hint, hint..Streetbike)

Also some people talk about the need to lengthen the drive shaft.

Thanks for the list.
 

FM5332FF

Member
560
7
18
Location
Labelle, FL
I used a forklift to remove the box off of the back of my deuce, i agree with Tm America, Bolt the perches on, welding cast wont hold up. I used some stock springs and hangers out of the front of another deuce, that way i didnt have to use blocks, with the blocks it will cause axle wrap. The only reason you will need to legthen the drive shaft is if you move the axle more to the rear.
 

jayjetseck

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Location
manchester , pa
if you use the overload springs from top of spring set , reassembly them in the main spring pack .. i think that will give you the same height as front with a little more load rate and a stiffer ride.. no need for blocks.
 

DUG

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if you use the overload springs from top of spring set , reassembly them in the main spring pack .. i think that will give you the same height as front with a little more load rate and a stiffer ride.. no need for blocks.
The overload springs don't add any height. At least not on the M105 trailer. They are mounted on TOP of the main spring, just along for the ride until things get heavy.
 

DUECE-COUPE

Member
357
5
18
Location
Scurry. Tx
i use a set of front springs and all associated hard ware for the rear axle. as for the drive shaft. the stock one is fine for the bob job, unless you want a longer wheel base. for a shorter wheel base, use a front drive shaft. the front is 42 " and the rear is 50". using a front will reduce yoyur wheel base fron 130" to 122". makes for a better turning radius and a better overall look. To remove bed, cut bolts, remove mud flaps, strap board to bumperetts, back truck up to big tree, chain bed to tree, drive forward. bed is off.
 

IMA944T

New member
198
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0
Location
OKLAHOMA CITY
Bob Job

Does any body have several good pictures of a bobbed truck. Just bought my first 2.5 ton and after seeing one boobed from a distance would like to see some good pic's. Send them to BUDDCO2003@YAHOO.COM as title them bobbed truck thanks.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
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Location
GA Mountains
If you look closely at the M105 springs compared to the deuce front springs, you will find that except the helper leaf pack, the springs are identical in every way, even length. Perhaps a lower side of frame mount (similar to offroad designs flip kits) would compensate for the spring location. If I had access to any specialized tool for bobbing a deuce it would be a mag drill.
 

rivired

New member
226
2
0
Location
federal way washington
Just a Heads up..i tried the yank the deuce bed off with my jeep method..and it worked good..but i broke one of my rear composite lights..so id remove both before attempting..
 

miltruckman

Member
200
2
18
Location
Lebanon, Indiana
I used a hand band saw by Porter Cable to cut off the frame. Made a real nice clean cut. Harbor freight sells a cheap version that uses the same blades. They sell the quality blades for their cheap saw.

An angle grinder with flap discs was great for removing the rust from the frame.

A torch for cutting off rivets.

Punch and chisel for removing parts after the rivet heads are torched off.

You will be drilling a lot of holes. So a good electric hand drill and quality bits is important.

Harbor freight sells a set of 12 ton jack stands that actually lifts high enough to hold up the frame. They are $75.00 I would recommend them.

A good floor jack to lift the springs is handy. They are pretty heavy.

Bill
Michigan
 

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