Turbo slober

[spentshell]

I never had any oil come from my turbo before until recently, thats why I never put a hose on it. Is there a way to tell if its turbo seals vs engine blow by?

 

[wsucougarx]

I guess the best way to tell if it is a leaky turbo is by running your engine to see if you get a runaway Do you have any wetspots on your turbo anywhere? Any fresh oil on the turbo? Is that a drip of oil on your breather tube?

 

[spentshell]

The turbo itself looks dry it looks like the wetness is coming out of the tube.
Yup, looks like a drip.

 

[Westech]

Thats not a turbo tube of any sort. its the blow by/draft tube for the crank case. it will drip oil thats its job.

 

[wsucougarx]

From the pics it looks like slober coming out of your breather tube. I don't see anything on your turbo and the pattern on the frame of your truck looks like it is originating in the area of the downdraft tube. Hopefully it's just engine slobber

 

[spentshell]

Any reason why it would drip oil all of sudden when it hasnt before?

 

[wsucougarx]

have you changed the oil lately? What's your oil level? Have you driven it harder or longer than you nornally do? There are a number of factors. Besides, it's a MV...they're suppose to be highly unpredicable and mark their spots whenever they want

 

[Jones]

Road breather- a little bit of drool there is normal although, if you're leaving puddles, you might have blow-by from worn rings.
If anything, put a length of hose on the end to get the drip down past the frame rails.

Turbo seal leaks are bad news.
If in doubt; pull the flex hose from the turbo compressor side to the intake manifold off at the turbo. If it's wet there then the front seal is going or gone and this can let the engine runaway by using the leaking oil as fuel.

For what it's worth; the only way of safely stopping a runaway is to suffocate the engine with a rag or piece of plywood to block the air flow at the air cleaner inlet.
You've gotta be really fast too or the engine will stop itself-- usually as it grenades.

Wet (not just moist from too much fuel) inside the exhaust pipe just out of the turbo hot side, isn't as dangerous but it still should be fixed to cut back on oil comsumption.

 

[spentshell]

I did run her hard about 2 weeks ago, about 150 miles at 2400 rpm's.
I'm going to put a hose on it and keep an eye out for any changes.
Thanks for the help.
Rich

 

[JDToumanian]

Make sure you're using the correct oil - OE/HDO 30 (SAE 30) per the LO manual.... Most if not all of the people who have posted up that they have oil coming out their slobber tube, are using 15w-40 which is made from a less robust base stock and breaks down quicker in these older engines that were not designed for it.

If you're using SAE 30 oil and it's not diluted with fuel, your engine may be starting to show it's age...

 

[FMJ]

Make sure you're using the correct oil - OE/HDO 30 (SAE 30) per the LO manual.... Most if not all of the people who have posted up that they have oil coming out their slobber tube, are using 15w-40 which is made from a less robust base stock and breaks down quicker in these older engines that were not designed for it.

If you're using SAE 30 oil and it's not diluted with fuel, your engine may be starting to show it's age...

Here we go. . .

I'm using Rotella 15W-40. . .

Stenciled in the engine compartment on most all of my trucks. . .

Perhaps a switch to straight 30W?


Forgot to mention, about a gallon of Lucas added as well.

 

[Westech]

I'm going to switch my CUCV to 30W.. the 15W40 just seams to brake down really fast in the older Diesel engines. Now for the D max I stick with 5W-40 full syn.

 

[Boatcarpenter]

I'm interested in the fact that some people think the 15W40 breaks down quickly in older diesel engines. So my questions are.
What is an older diesel engine? Mine is a 1985 multi. Is that considered "older"?
What is "breaking down" in the oil?
How are you determining that it is "breaking down". Frequent oil analysis?
How is the engine being used? Long hard runs at high sustained speeds, running over recommended revs, not running up to proper operating temp, etc.?
I'm looking for details and fact based information on this claim.
I also happen to use 15W40 Rotella so I would like to know.
Thanks,
BC

 

[spentshell]

FLUID ANALYSIS REPORT - 877-458-3315COMMENTSData indicates no abnormal findings. Resample at normal interval; Lubricant and filter change acknowledged

I just had my oil analysis done, I have about 1000k miles on the rotella 15w40

 

[SasquatchSanta]

You can also stop a runaway with a CO2 fire extinguisher.

I'm not getting into this oil discussion --- I'd rather sell popcorn. opcorn:

 

[jatonka]

Wow, thanks Ernie, I didn't know about the CO2. And I have some of them for sale, so you just made a great selling point. JT out

 

[Boatcarpenter]

Thanks spentshell That's some hard evidence for continuing to use 15W40 Rotella.
BC

 

[jimk]

The first generation multi-grade oils (mid-late 60's) had some breakdown issues. The molecules would break down, especially at high temps, then recombine with O2, or whatever, resulting in sludge, different physical properties....all of them bad. The current multi-grade oil is much better, even better that SAE 30, as illustrated by the API ratings. That no modern commercial truck, auto or military vehicle manufacturer(?) recommends SAE 30 says a lot. Can anyone offer a modern example that recommends SAE30?


p.s. It's OK to use the recommended oil, however there may be better choices, choices that were not available 30 or 40 years ago.

 

[JDToumanian]

I agree with you Jim, multi-grade oils definitely have their place, particularly in places with cold winters to eliminate the need to change oil seasonally. Though personally, I would use a block or pan heater before I used a multi-grade oil.

What is this API rating you have that shows a multi-grade oil is "better" than a single weight? In years of research, I have never heard of such a thing.... I use Chevron DELO 400 S.A.E. 30 and it meets the EXACT SAME SPEC as Chevron DELO 400 15w-40. Same API seal on the bottle.

It's beyond coincidence that nearly every single person who has posted that their engine leaks oil or their road draft tube slobbers oil out at highway speeds, uses 15w-40 oil. That's my point.... It's not that 15w-40 is "bad" (though I don't use multi-grades for anything except my Honda Accord). It's that the Multifuel engines don't "like" it. Switch to S.A.E. 30, leaks stop.

Here are a few oil spec sheets to compare.... The first is for Chevron DELO S.A.E. 30 and the second is Chevron DELO 15w-40.

https://www.cbest.chevron.com/generated/MSDS/PDS7668881.PDF

Note the "bullet point" words they use in describing the single-weight products: "Long Oil Life", "Long Engine Life", "Superior Engine Cleanliness" (due to no contamination by multi-grade polymer breakdown residue), and so on....

https://www.cbest.chevron.com/generated/MSDS/PDS7668634.PDF

Now note the "bullet point" words they use to describe the multi-grade product: "Reduced Operating Costs", "Reduced Inventory Costs". This is because the product allows owners to compromise, and use the same oil, year round, for all their equipment regardless of individual equipments' requirements. Note that nothing is said of decreased wear, long life, etc. Why? BECAUSE COMPARED TO SINGLE WEIGHT PRODUCTS, MULTI-GRADE OILS ARE INFERIOR.

Also note that the single-weight products meet all CURRENT diesel engine manufacturer's specifications, like CAT's "ECF-3" spec, etc.

Regards,
Jon

 

[JDToumanian]

Can anyone offer a modern example that recommends SAE30?

S.A.E. 30 meets all current diesel engine manufacturers' requirements. Also, no diesel engine manufacturer tells you NOT to use S.A.E. 30.

So why do they generally spec 15w-40 these days? ....For it's true - they do. I can think of two logical reasons:

1 - The K.I.S.S. principle... Keep It Simple, Stupid. "Warning - Remove shells before eating peanuts". Which makes more sense from a manufacturer's standpoint? To have a chart of climate conditions, indicating S.A.E. 30 for temperatures between 35 and 100 degrees, S.A.E. 40 over 100 degrees, 10w between -10 and 35 degrees and 5w below -10 degrees? ........or just say 15w-40 year round? It's a compromise.

2 - EPA emissions rules. Engine manufacturers are under pressure to keep emissions low and fuel economy high, and to certify their engines for EPA emissions purposes, they spec them for the lighter 15w-40 oil, which does flow a little easier and theoretically increases fuel economy by some tiny percentage. Every little bit counts I guess, but LONG ENGINE LIFE is far more important to me.

Note that these are just my personal theories.... maybe right, maybe not.... Just based on my own logic.

Regards,
Jon