Tell Me About Torque Bars

[dabtl]

OK, mine need the ends replaced. I think I can get new torque bars with the ends already installed.

How much trouble is it to replace these? What is the easiest way, other than going to a garage and having it done, to do the job?

Will I want to kill myself or my wife midway in the work?

 

[jatonka]

Suppose the new ends are $40 each and the whole new torque Rod is $100, a lot quicker and easier to replace the whole rod, over a twenty dollar savings. When you get new rods, buy 6 and you can do them all at once and be done with it. Tell your wife to visit friends or family for 3 days, when she gets back you will be just pulling in from the repair shop after you discover how much work it would be to do it your self. If you are young and single, have a bunch of motor head friendss, and are inbetween wives, it's a cinch to DITY. JT out

 

[dabtl]

Can I just bring it to NY and let you do it? Please.

I thought there were eight of them? How dumb am I? Fairly so, I think.

 

[jatonka]

Hey, you can do the Hill Billy fix, just weld a bolt across each one to keep it from coming off when the rubber breaks and "Git er Done". JT out

 

[dabtl]

I knew there was a trick to it.

 

[Firefighter294]

One of the best write-ups on Torque rods I've seen

http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn14.pdf

 

[dabtl]

I wonder why no upper torque rods on the left side? A curiosity for sure.

 

[Brock Steel]

Check around on price, I just did all 12 bushing and it was not a simple job. The whole rod was around 200 + dollars each. OD iron has the bushings at 35 each. You will need Impact tools to help with nut removal and jacks to lift the axle to take the pressure off the right rear spring pack. You may have to move the spring pack shackle to get to the bolts to replace the upper rods. Mark all the parts Left side, front, back upper lower shackle etc.
Locate a machine shop to press out the old rods and in the new ones. Check for any other problems like rear oil leaks Etc. Keep a open mind and take your time. Make sure to check the brake lines for ware and strap them back up when your done. Make sure the truck is in a strait line before you take it apart so you don't have to work the rear axles back in alignment. Big pain in the a**s. If you feel this job is to big get a mechanic to do it. I had a mobile mechanic that was recommended buy a local truck parts place do mine and it was a job. As you can see in the pictures we found a oil leak in the rear tire. Remember the rods keep the axle from moving forward or back. if they fail the axle will move and take the brake lines with it, No brakes.... Good luck Hope I was helpful. Brock. P.S left side has axle vents in them. Shackles would sit right on top of them.

 

[dabtl]

I do not like the way that looks at all. I think I will acquire new torque rods and talk to my mechanic. I am sure he will be thrilled, however. Oh, well, my contribution to the stimulus.

 

[Brock Steel]

Trust me the peace of mind knowing its done right is well worth the cost. Spare parts are a great Idea too. I just acquired 10 brake shoes, a spare transmission, The spin on fuel and oil filters are a great upgrade too. P.s keep an eye on the fuel nozzle in the turbo intake its part if the cold weather start system and it's known to leak on the exhaust side of the turbo... Fire Will Robinson...

 

[m16ty]

I wonder why no upper torque rods on the left side? A curiosity for sure.

You really only need one on top to keep the axle from rolling. The bottom ones hold the axle in line.

 

[dabtl]

I have to get the torque rod ends replaced or the entire unit, either way.

I drive this thing mostly in parades and such. Sometimes just for fun. So, it does not get a lot of wear or extreme conditions.

But it has been a very satisfying challenge getting it to run dependably. But this is more of a challenge than I want. I do not have the facility or the time to do it.

So, I will acquire the parts and the mechanic can handle the rest.

And, yes, Brock Steel, spares are wonderful. I have two trailer filled with them.

 

[FL_Frank]

Thought I would share a tool that I found at Napa, specifically which makes the torque bar replacement a bit easier. It is a stubby 1-1/2 socket, 1/2 drive, and it's only $11. Part number 61-4048 and it fits quite nicely without having to take apart the springs. Pictures below

 

[JTugwell]

i just did all 6 of mine. i bought the whole torque rod assembly from TNJMURRAY for 125.00 each. i thought that was a good deal since ive seen them around the 225-275 ea. mark. wasnt all that bad to do. what sucked was the uppers. i sure wish i would have had that NAPA socket. i couldnt get the ubolts out of mine, and actually had to cut the lifting bracket out of the way. then had to make a special rod to screw on to the end so i could hit it with a sledge and drive em out. once i got all that done i welded the lifting bracket back into place to make it look right. fyi you may want to replace the nuts. as i found out the hard way, and ruined on of the new ends. they are 1" fine thread nuts.

 

[FL_Frank]

TNJ Murray was also my choice as well. For $125 for brand new torque bars (with new nuts too), it simply made little economical sense to do the new bushing route, so ordered (6) from him.

Have done the four lowers already and broken loose one side of the top ones. I'll be using the above socket to finish the task one evening this weekend.

One thing I'd like to add is with my truck, one of the rear axles was askew compared to the others. This showed up in the gap between the two axles between the tires was different from one side to another. Initially I could not figure it out, but when I replaced one of the torque bars, I had to ratchet an axle forward a bit to get the new torque bar in. Turns out my axles are nice and straight now, even though the original torque bar bushing didn't look bad at all.

Thus, beware if one of you M35 axles is not lined up right, your torque bar bushings may be going bad. This is probably common sense to most around here, and it is to me now as well, but thought I'd mention it.

 

[Warthog]

I had to replace a broken torque rod on a truck at Ft Sam Houston. It wasn't too bad. Hand tools only. BIG hand tools.....LOL

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/35467-torque-rod-dogbone-replacement-easy-way.html

 

[Coal Cracker]

One of the best write-ups on Torque rods I've seen

http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn14.pdf

Awesome Article, I'm saving to desktop Thanks

 

[rockman]

had to do a field repair to move a truck...cable and lock on right side..