Brake Switch Blues

[Garandfan]

So last week I noticed no brake lights. Everything else worked. Started researching SS. Narrowed it down to either faulty grounds or the brake switch. I jumpered the plug and had brake lights. I tried to order the conversation kit from Saturn-out of stock and don't know when they will be available. So I ordered a hydraulic switch. It came in the mail today and threw it on and had brake lights! BUUUUUUT, the stayed on. Took the switch off and just for fun tried the old one and it functioned just enough to where you barely see the lights. The lights turned on and off like they are supposed to. Looks like I will be replacing the new brake light switch. I talked to my father about the problematic new switch. He said when he worked in the steel mill, if they had a faulty hydraulic switch, they would tap it because the diaphrams were dry....My father is pretty mechanically inclined and he has that certain touch. Should I try it?

 

[wheelspin]

go to Carquest or Napa and ask for a GM hydraulic brake light switch.. i have a part number out in my truck, hang on...-------
OK i used carquest and the part number is 58090 / switch / interrupter....
unforgivably tho its made in Taiwan.

 

[Garandfan]

I did a lot of reading on this topic. From what I gather, the mil-specs are different in pressure rating and dot 5 compatability, and you have to fit two wires from the switch to the plug. What did I miss?

 

[wheelspin]

this switch is for BIG gm trucks so it has a high psi rating. dot-5 fluid is just a silicone base( my Harley Davidson V-rod uses dot-5 also) as for the wires it just plugs in, but it dose not have the rubber boot on the switch like the mil spec.

 

[Garandfan]

I apprectiate the help! I am a month into the hobby now. I guess I will be calling Saturn in the morning to see what I can work out. Also, is there a pedal adjustment that may need to be done?

 

[Garandfan]

It has the same threaded fitting also?

 

[wheelspin]

yep it is n.i.p.t (new iron pipe thread). oh ya, bleeding the brakes sucks. it took me forever to get the pedal back.

 

[Garandfan]

yeah, the bleeding part is gonna suck too, thanks for the help!!!!!

 

[cranetruck]

yeah, the bleeding part is gonna suck too, thanks for the help!!!!!

Pressurize the master cylinder to make the bleeding a snap (plenty of hits when you search the site).

The pressure rating of the hydraulic brake light switch is important, should be 3,000 psi or more, if the switch bursts, you'll have no brakes....to avoid, get the air pressure switch modification (do a search again).

 

[badgmc56]

Pressure bleeding is the best way to do it . If you don't have a pressure bleeder it's still not that bad. Start buy having a buddy in the truck and make sure he listens to your directions closely. Bleed the airpack first. Do not pump the pedal. Open the bleeder and have the person in the truck push the pedal down slowly . Thats so you don't get a face full of fluid. Don't ask me why I know this! Next go to the farthest wheel away from the master cylinder which is right rear, last axle. Next left rear, last axle. Next right rear forward axle. Next left rear forward axle. Next right front then left front. Remember do not pump just push while the bleeder is open and make sure you close the bleeder before the helper raises the pedal. This is very important. You may have to do the same wheel a few times. Don't forget to keep checking the master cylinder for fluid.

 

[clinto]

yeah, the bleeding part is gonna suck too, thanks for the help!!!!!

No it won;t-check this out:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/30937-brake-pressure-bleeder.html