M35A2 Brake Master Cylinder

[dcwilkie]

So I go to check the DOT 5 fluid level in the Cheetahmobile Deuce and all I see under the cover in the cab floorboard is this style of Master Cylinder.
The manual I have shows one that has two caps and the line with fitting.
Am I being to cautious? Should I just twist this off and all will be revealed? Is there a seperate reservoir I don't know about?

All squawks fixed now except the stiff brakes. The air gauge is only showing 30 lbs. and doesn't seem to move at all. Gonna bleed the air tanks after I check the reservoir level I guess.
All advice solicited!

 

[tm america]

unscrew the line i think its a 7/16 or 3/8s then unscrew the cap its the square piece.then you can check your fluid the square one is a 3/4 if i remember right.i'd really look into the air pressure it should be 120 try a different guage to see if it is really that low if it is you can adjust it on the regulator on the firewall by loosining the lock nut and turning the adjustment screw in till it reads 120

 

[WillWagner]

That is the standard 'ol duece M/C. The line on the cap is the vent line...follow it and you'll find that it goes to the road draft tube. Blow or brake clean the dirt/debris off the top before you tahe the cap off. Just take the vent line off and remove the cap. What TM do you have that shows a M/C with two caps?. Air pressure should be around 90 PSI...maybe more depending on if someone has monkeyed with the governor. The low air pressure might be the reason why the brakes are hard to opreate. The air is an assist, kinda like a car uses vacuum to boost the braking.

 

[dcwilkie]

Thanks very much! Heading out into the 101 degree heat right now to do so.

 

[Recovry4x4]

You are probably looking at a -24 manual. These are dated in 2006 or such and mostly deal with the later deuces with the split brake system.

Try using the TM 9-2320-361-10, -20, -34, -20P and _34P

 

[dcwilkie]

Got confused and was looking at the modified split system for the M44A2.

'Nother dumb question- where the heck is the air regulator valve on the firewall? Inside the cab or outside in the engine compartment? I can't find it ANYWHERE.

Fluid levels look good and the brake pedal is not spongy in the least. Maybe a hlf-inch of unrestricted travel. The air compressor looks like it might have some oil seepage around the bottom of the compressor where the flange bolts on.

Will bleed the air reservoir this evening. Geez I hope the compressor is OK...

 

[Recovry4x4]

Air regulator, aka governor, is outside on the firewall near the air cleaner. There is a small copper air line that goes to this from the compressor.

 

[dcwilkie]

So... basic question. Which way should the trailer air line valve in the cab point? Towards the driver (flush with the firewall) or out towards the passenger? My guess is towards the passenger. That would explain a lot.

 

[omega231]

the valve in the cab does not effect the trailer. its just an auxilary port for accesories. just so you know its supposed to be flush with the firewall pointing twords the driver.

the trailer valves are actually just behind the actual connections on the back of the truck. the valve handles should be pointed out away from the chassey

 

[littlebob]

I saw a post recently that showed three differnt regulators that have been used. I'd help you find it if I wasn't going to bed now. Mine is mounted a couple inches above the top of the cowl and about a third of the way between from the passenger side. Hope this helps!

 

[dcwilkie]

So.... I found out what happens when you don't "Know Your Deuce" (KYD). The trailer hookup air valves were open.
Now I'll have to reset the air regulator.
I have to say, the folks on Steel Soldiers are GREAT!
Patient too.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

 

[Bighurt]

That is the standard 'ol duece M/C. The line on the cap is the vent line...follow it and you'll find that it goes to the road draft tube. Blow or brake clean the dirt/debris off the top before you tahe the cap off. Just take the vent line off and remove the cap.

Alright along the same lines, my question is after checking and finding it low do you have to put everything back when you bleed the lines.

I ask cause mine has no brakes, most likely its all leaked out and there is now air in the lines. I say this cause the first driver side drive tire drum assembly is completly wet and covered in dirt.

Unfortunatly to fix the leak I need to get the Duece up to the shop. I can bleed the brakes with an assitant IAW with the TO. However it doesn't address weather the vent tube can be left off when pumping the brakes durign the bleeding process. The vent tube is such a pain to get off, It would make the process so much easier if I could just screw the cover on without the tube in place.

Anybody see a problem with this?

Also can the fluid bleed out be reused?

 

[dk8019]

I've always thought the design is poor at best. Given the importance of making sure there is brake fluid in the MC, you would think it would be at least visble from the outside without disassembly. Someone once mentioned that they had ran a rubber hose from the bleeder to a seperate tank that was visible in the cab. Anyone have any pictures of this?

 

[hndrsonj]

Do a search for a remote brake resevoir and pressure brake bleeder. These 2 things will make it so easy to work on your brakes you will wonder how you got along without them (especially the bleeder).

 

[Heavysteven]

So if the MC is low, just fill it up to the top?

 

[OldDominionIron]

I just adjusted the air pressure regulator according to the TM yesterday. TM 9-2320-209-20-3-2, paragraph 13-36 gives you step by step directions, and says normal pressure is 100-105 psig. Hope this helps.

Dave

 

[Keith_J]

Alright along the same lines, my question is after checking and finding it low do you have to put everything back when you bleed the lines.

I ask cause mine has no brakes, most likely its all leaked out and there is now air in the lines. I say this cause the first driver side drive tire drum assembly is completly wet and covered in dirt.

Unfortunatly to fix the leak I need to get the Duece up to the shop. I can bleed the brakes with an assitant IAW with the TO. However it doesn't address weather the vent tube can be left off when pumping the brakes durign the bleeding process. The vent tube is such a pain to get off, It would make the process so much easier if I could just screw the cover on without the tube in place.

Anybody see a problem with this?

Also can the fluid bleed out be reused?

Leave the breather line off when bleeding. Better yet, use that fitting to apply 5-10 PSI of air to the master cylinder and you can bleed brakes by yourself.

DOT 5 seems to weep out of wheel cylinders with lack of use. Why? I do not know, the brakes seem to "fix" themselves once you bleed the lines but there will be a mess to clean up.

 

[dabtl]

I have replaced the stock filler cap vent line with a remote brake fluid reservoir on my two deuces. Look up 'remote brake' using the search feature to see that and other posters install of these remote reservoirs. A lot of the problems discussed here will disappear.

 

[lippmann_keith@yahoo.com]

so on my m35a2 i disconect the line and take the cap off for brake fluid?

 

[DieselBob]

so on my m35a2 i disconect the line and take the cap off for brake fluid?

Welcome to the site. Yes that is correct.