She wont start

[panzerjunky]

Hello
Thanks for all the help from you guys on the Hydraulic head repair I had going But now She will not start.
Here is a little history
Had a leak in the IP bad gaskets fixed that while I was at it I replaced all of the plastic fuel lines from the small 1/8 inch 1/4 between injectors and such up to the 3/8 from and to the filters. As I had the drivers side fender off figgured this was the time to do this.
got it all done tried to start after a few cranks she started but ran super rough very low RPM ( she ran beautifully before the IP Repair) then the rpm started to max ilke it was a runaway I pulled the engine stop and she shut down.
Tried to restart no luck nothing. Bled a little air from the filters minimal still nothing .
Any Ideas?
Thanks Jerry

 

[50shooter]

Last winter I had a rough run then quit experience too. I ended up cracking the fuel line at the injectors and cranking until I got a good sputter of fuel then closed them. I ended up doing this three times but it worked. It works best if you have a helper either cranking it or loosening / tightening fuel lines. I found that you can do two at a time otherwise you may not have enough battery juice to crank the air out one at a time.

Be sure to bleed the fuel filters until the fuel squirts out the bleeder .

Good Luck
Jason

 

[scrapman]

If you put it back like it was and did'nt move anything, it's just loaded with air. Open the valve on top of the secondary filters and turn the pump on and let it push out a pint or more of fuel.Close the valve. Crack each injector line at the injector slightly. Take the cap off the intake & give it squirt of gas, not ether. Crank it over, go easy on the squirts because you can't control it once it starts to run. After 1 to 3 brief starts like this tighten all lines, the air should be out now, try to start it on it's normal procedure.

 

[zb39]

As others have said you need to bleed! sometimes it takes a while. Start bleeding from closest to tank and work your way to the injectors. Good luck.

 

[panzerjunky]

If you put it back like it was and did'nt move anything, it's just loaded with air. Open the valve on top of the secondary filters and turn the pump on and let it push out a pint or more of fuel.Close the valve. Crack each injector line at the injector slightly. Take the cap off the intake & give it squirt of gas, not ether. Crank it over, go easy on the squirts because you can't control it once it starts to run. After 1 to 3 brief starts like this tighten all lines, the air should be out now, try to start it on it's normal procedure.

Thanks for the tip
But what cap off the intake do you mean the air cleaner like you would do on a caurburated gas motor and shoot some gas down the carb? or is there some other place on the intake system. lastly when you say gas is this a generic term for fuel or do you mean gasoline?
Thanks Jerry

 

[scrapman]

Cap a.k.a. The mushroom that sticks out the side through the door that folds down over the fender on the right side. Gasoline, use a plastic quart oil/atf bottle with a hole pierced in the top or dish soap/ketchup bottle though some of these melt when exposed to gas.

 

[cranetruck]

The golden rule here is to "don't turn anything" when the hydraulic head is removed. When back in, the engine should run like before.
Never had to bleed the lines to the injectors and never use a starting aid without cranking the engine at the same time (takes two people or the ether injection system).

Check the operation of the fuel shut-off mechanism and the return spring for the "gas" pedal.

 

[deathrowdave]

Done a few IP head reseals , Did not need to reprime.Tank pump should reprime filters

 

[m-35tom]

from what you say, you pulled the shut off cable and it stopped. the problem is that the fuel rate slider is now at no fuel. it is stuck. the shaft and tip that goes in the fuel rate slider must be very free. from your past posts it was not and you have a problem in the ip head you put on.

 

[panzerjunky]

from what you say, you pulled the shut off cable and it stopped. the problem is that the fuel rate slider is now at no fuel. it is stuck. the shaft and tip that goes in the fuel rate slider must be very free. from your past posts it was not and you have a problem in the ip head you put on.

Ok I pulled the Hydraulic head out flipped it over pulled off the gaskets wiped it down a bit held it upside down spryed a little shot of brake cleaner in the holes where the injector lines go as some rust had fallen in there.
put the new gaskets on lined up the marks set the unit on thghtened the bolts.
Now i did think I had an issue putting the rod with the little tit on it into the hole it fit very tight but then all at once it slid right in I had the flat on the little tit part wide side horizontal with the ground ther is a little bump running lenthwise on the little tit part does the bump point up or down. I have done what the troops have suggested. cracking the injector lines got fuel to that point although I did not see fuel at all 6 points hard to see them all when cranking sprayed gas into the intake ( undid the coupling after the air cleaner and sprayed in there ) it started ran horibly rough then as the gas disapated she died. I think we are onto something with the fuel rate slider.
Lastly what is the recomended way to charge a battery or jump a battery as I am 100% sure by the time I figgure this out it will be needed.
Thanks Jerry

 

[m-35tom]

take the shut off cover off and be sure the link to the goveror moves VERY freely. the smallest bit of dirt in this system is death.