Mystery of the Clicking Solenoid - M1009

[fireman9]

First, I am an electrical engineer. I know what a solenoid does. I have also worked as an electronics technician and an aviation electrician. I have plenty of experience in troubleshooting electrical problems.

There will not be that big of a spark because the only current you are drawing through the solenoid is from the battery to the coil of the solenoid. Finally, the solenoid for a 6.2L GM engine is EXPENSIVE. I think I found the cheapest at $170.

Also, there is an interposing relay between the ignition switch and the solenoid. The original purpose was to switch 24vdc to the coil of the starter solenoid. If you have converted the truck to 12vdc, then this circuit can be bypassed as it no longer serves a purpose. Simply remove the relay and splice wires 3 RED-2Y to 3 PPL-6.

Well then I'm not telling you anything that you don't know. But when jumping the two large terminals on a GM solenoid NOT THE BATTERY TERMNIAL AND "S" TERMNIAL, but like described Trust Me there will be a BIG SPARK.
You will be connecting the battery to the starter motor directly.
The starter motor draws about 140 amps of current no load.
140 amps + jumper = BIG SPARK

Battery terminal to "S" terminal about 8 amps little to no spark.

I don't know where your buying starter solenoids or why at that price when you can install a newer gear reduction starter with better cranking ability for $150.00 Change the starter over to Mr. Goodwrench's standard of 12 volt and go on your marry way.

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

Wait, we have a communication problem. We are both saying the same thing. Short the big terminal (battery cable to starter) to the "S" terminal to completely bypass the entire start wiring. This will eliminate the wiring as a problem or verify a bad solenoid (assuming that the batteries are good).

Yes, I have converted a CUCV to 12vdc. Starter was $270. The 24 vdc starter solenoid went bad and I was trying to find a 12 vdc solenoid to change out and basically make a hybrid starter (12vdc solenoid, 24 vdc starter motor). The solenoid was $170. If you can tell me where to get a starter solenoid for a 6.2L GM diesel engine cheaper, don't be shy about telling me where.

 

[southdave]

K&N auto and elcetric, Cin. Oh There is thread look up solenoid that is about thirty bucks I think mine was hd 24 volt it was 42 plus tax. P.S I have the new style hmmvee starter on mine. I was up till 3am trying to solenoid off gave up went to ask how to @#$%^ F off the man grab twisted around for about 10 seconds said like that and shoved the new one in. The whole give a man Fish thing.

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

I was up till 3am trying to solenoid off gave up went to ask how to @#$%^ F off the man grab twisted around for about 10 seconds said like that and shoved the new one in. The whole give a man Fish thing.

LOL! I did the same thing but figured it out in about an hour.

 

[fireman9]

Wait, we have a communication problem. We are both saying the same thing. Short the big terminal (battery cable to starter) to the "S" terminal to completely bypass the entire start wiring. This will eliminate the wiring as a problem or verify a bad solenoid (assuming that the batteries are good).

Yes, I have converted a CUCV to 12vdc. Starter was $270. The 24 vdc starter solenoid went bad and I was trying to find a 12 vdc solenoid to change out and basically make a hybrid starter (12vdc solenoid, 24 vdc starter motor). The solenoid was $170. If you can tell me where to get a starter solenoid for a 6.2L GM diesel engine cheaper, don't be shy about telling me where.

click here12 volt starter $175.95
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/starter/Ch...e&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=google_base_api


A good board for more info and the swap to gear reduction 12 volt here.
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=325057

 

[iamspencer]

check ignition switch on top of steering colum its blue

 

[Wolf.Dose]

OK, after the problem is solved I like to add something on this issue. Howerver, I do not want to start a new round of discussion, my intention is to help to understand some of the arguments from different points of vieu.
First: When I did read me through the pages I had the idea of a bad battery. 11.something volts is a little low for a good battery with no load. If I would have seen this issue earlier I would have asked: How old are the batteries (means not how long they are installed, how old they really are).
Second: Do not claim about these young man working in the shops and checking falts in the cars/truck with the computer. Thats the way they have been trained. They are exchange mechanics, that is the system. One reason is the product laibility law. So they change parts, the liability is at the manufacturer. If they repair the classical way the liability is at the shop. So they change. And off course they only can find faults described in the computer. If the program does not specify the actuall falt, for it is not foreseen, they will not find it. That's the reality.
Third: The starter of the CUCV series is not the most reliable. I had to change a starter on my M1009 and 5 on my M715 with 6.2 l Diesel. Main reson: Failed solenoid. There is inside the solenoid a wire from the small contact (I do not know the US name for it, here it is contact 50) This wire tends to brake, neigther from the current load if the starter does not slipp easily into the flywheel gear (Thats why it must be shimmed) or from production twisting.
Two starters had to be changed for the repair kits of the bearings were new out of tollerance, made somewhere in Mexico or Taiwan or where else it is cheep. Field failors are also known, means you have to replace the field wire pacs by good ones.
For this reason the US Army replaced the old starter by a new one that fits without modifications and need no more shimming. They say it is more reliable. We will see in the future!
The the commend of Blood of Tyrants: If you short the big terminal on the starter to the little one for the solenoid it is possible to burn the treat of this tiny bolt with the spark. Better ad an extra cable to that terminal and short this to the 24V batterie terminal. This at least avoids any kinds of unwanted shorts down there. And there a many possibilities to produce a big short. In this oily greasy invironement it might cause a fire! From the electrical point of viev you are right. This I can say as a mechanical engineer. The electrics of my M715 I completely harnested myself with a 12/24 Volt system based on the CUCV series electric. And it works including some features normal MV do not have!
Foreever good batteries and good contacts!
Wolf