Axle Vents: Clean? Replace? Relocate? OTHER Vents?

[BugEyeBear]

I want to ensure that my axle vents are working OK...

WHY? I recently replaced a rear axle seal on 2 axles, & I do have a weeping pinion seal on one axle (this is the next item on "the list"). So I want to be 100% sure that the vents are not clogged or malfunctioning in any way.

I know the PM says to twist them to dislodge debris, then tap them to ensure that the spring works.
But this still doesn't guarantee that they are working correctly, nor that they aren't clogged below the plunger.

I'm considering removing them, disassembling them, cleaning them, ensuring all the bits are in good condition, and then reinstalling.
But I'm thinking it might just be easier to replace them.

THEN I THINK if I'm gonna go to all that effort, MAYBE I'll relocate the vent valves to a higher location up in the frame.
MAYBE something similar to the install shown by these pics from an earlier post by "breelanr". He used the vent from a 2001 Wrangler rear axle, a 1/8"NPT brass fitting, a length of 5/16 hose, a P-clamp, & mounting hardware.

What is everyone else doing?
Can the stock vents be disassembled, cleaned, & reinstalled?
Are replacements available?
OR is the upgrade the way to go?
IF the upgrade, what is the preferred vent to use?

 

[emmado22]

they are easy and cheap to replace, but also easy to fix/degunk. A shot of brake cleaner or the like, press down on them a few times, make sure they spring back up, and they are good to go.

 

[Wolf.Dose]

Summery:
First: Vents must be clean. Without investigating which tip of vents are used on you Deuce, try to clean them as a minimum. The hoses also must be cleaned and the fittigs on the axle set that way that spray oil will drip back into the axle.
Second: Relocate: On MV the vents usually are set in locations hight enough for military use and fording depth allowance. If you realy want to play in the dirt maybe ist is better to lock for a higher location.
Third: If you use replacements, it is finally your decission which one you use. Iron free parts have a advantage of not rusting (of course except stainless steel). Nowadays plastic vents should be the most reliable available, at least for several years before the plastic get hard and easily cracs. But 20 years of lifetime should be possible.
Wolf

 

[Keith_J]

Brass fittings, poly tube and relocate to the air cleaner.
Make sure there is enough length for full axle drop.

Check bearing adjustment. Seals hate any play. And the check valve breathers pull dirt into the seals, causing premature wear.

 

[cessnatwin]

Good idea and article!

 

[steelandcanvas]

A Guy in our Club "remoted" his axle, t-case, and main gear-box breathers to up near the air cleaner. Brass fittings and poly tube seem to be the materials of choice.

 

[cranetruck]

Remove them and test by breathing thru them, should block one way and open with about 1/2 psi of pressure.

 

[Gamagoat1]

Take one apart. There is more than spring in there. A little rubber disc is held on it's seat by the spring, if it sticks to its seat, the gearbox being vented will not releive it's pressure and the seal will leak until the pressure is gone. They're easy to disassemble and , usually, can be cleaned out.

 

[cranetruck]

Image...
I think the cap is crimped on..not sure it's so easy to put back on...

 

[Gamagoat1]

It's not a hard crimp. just enough to hold the cap on.
Take an old one apart and you'll see how easy it it.
Re crimp just enough to keep it from comming off, in all four sides.

 

[BugEyeBear]

Thanks Guys!!

I already knew what the internals of the vents are comprised of. & it is the little rubber disk seal that has me most concerned. I figure that they MUST BE a bit old & weathered by now...

I agree that routing all the way up to the air cleaner (or some other similar high point) is best. But this is probably overkill for my purposes. (I'm not planning on doing any deep water fording.)
I'm just wanting to make an incremental improvement so I'll probably just raise the vents up to the height of the frame.


I forgot to ask in my original post...
What about the Transmission & Transfercase? Do these have vents also? (I'm assuming "yes".) Are they of similar design to what is used on the axles? & has anyone bothered to relocate these to a higher location also??

-Bear-

 

[emmado22]

yes, they do have them, and are same design.

 

[wsucougarx]

Gees, thanks again guys....gosh, something else I need to add to the already long project list


Never a dull moment

 

[steelandcanvas]

I forgot to ask in my original post...
What about the Transmission & Transfercase? Do these have vents also? (I'm assuming "yes".) Are they of similar design to what is used on the axles? & has anyone bothered to relocate these to a higher location also??
-Bear-

Yes

A Guy in our Club "remoted" his axle, t-case, and main gear-box breathers to up near the air cleaner. Brass fittings and poly tube seem to be the materials of choice.

 

[BugEyeBear]

Yes

OOOPS! I guess I should read the responses more carefully!
Thanks for not smacking me around on that one!!

 

[800summit]

BugEyeBear I did what your thinking and I routed the front tube up to the fuel filters and looped it over and tie wraped it. the rear I ran the tubing up into one of the holes in the frame and looped it out another hole. I did this using clear tubing with a 1/4 barbed fitting.

Ran through deep water this fall moose hunting, checked all axles and not 1 drop of water came out of the drain plugs. I know it does not look like stock equipment, but I use my rig and anything that can prolong the life of it is good with me

 

[Keith_J]

The other reason for getting rid of these breathers is seal life. When the axles get hot, the air inside expands and is forced out. This is all fine until the axle cools and the air contracts. Now the seals are pushed in, causing the lips of the seals to press harder and possibly drawing dirt/grit into the seal area. More wear ensues.

Using the tube to the air cleaner prevents all of this.

 

[Snarky]

Image...
I think the cap is crimped on..not sure it's so easy to put back on...

That image is creepy... Something must have been on an acid trip when they though of that.... I was thinking about adding remote breather lines yesterday.

My FJ has remote breathers for the transmission, transfer case, front diff, and rear diff, and they are just lines connected to one way valves similar to the deuce's, but under the hood. I guess that breather design is pretty good if they still use it on modern vehicles. I'm going to try to do it the same on my deuce.

 

[Dave911]

I'm not sure I understand why the standard breather is a check valve? On other applications where I need a breather but I don't want junk to get into the oil, I have used a gas fuel filter - one of those cheap metal can types that are about $3.00 everywhere. Loop the tubing up to the frame and attached the fuel filter can there. Point the unconnected connection downward or sideways and air can go in and out but junk/dirt cannot. Should be a lot better than an open tube/hose.

 

[BugEyeBear]

The check valve is designed to let built up pressure out, but not let water in.

Especially since the stock axle breathers are located on the axle, where water submersion is pretty likely.

Modern 4x4s (& some other vehicles) use a system like I show in the pictures above. Conenction at the axle, line running up to a breather or check-valve mounted to the frame (at a higher location that is typically above water levels). I believe that most modern systems still use a check valve, but perhaps some just use a breather. Ideally the system should keep out water & dirt, & release built up pressure (usually due to heat).

There has been some discussion/debate over whether or not a "breather" system is better. The thought here being that the "breather" system not only releases pressure, but it also relieves vacuum.