Hmmwv beadlocks on m1008

[24farragut]

I know this subject has been covered alot, but could use some ideas on the easiest way to get these tires on my M1008. The tires are brand new, the rims in great shape, and i would love to use them too, b/c the tires are already mounted on them. So, as far as i can tell my two options are.

1. Put on a 3" lift, and 2" spacers . I might need to cut my fenders a little, but wont have to screw with the steering linkage, and the wheels should just bolt on. I have never heard of anyone using spacers, are they real dependable, has anyone heard of them coming lose, or unbalanced while driving?
2. I could get rid of the rims, but standard offset 16.5" rims, put on a lift and call it a day.

Anyone done this before, got any pointers?

Thanks guys.

 

[aboonski]

I have a set of those that I want to put on my M1008 as well but still confused about some of the modifications required for the application; things like crossover steering for starters - I would love to see photos of crossover steering in addition to sources for this setup. Cutting my fenders is my plan too in order to eliminate jacking the truck 6" which will create problems with the driveshaft angle. I am a little guy too so I have to consider the fun of trying to get up into the truck with additional lift, etc. I don't plan on rock crawling the truck but there are places in Florida where flotation tires are a must - I got stuck in the mud out in Holopaw once and that convinced me to look for wider tires to prevent that in the future. Knowing a source for the right parts is my objective at present. When I finish the lift I do want it to be safe because my truck is my daily driver. I am anxious to get started on the modifications for other reasons like increased fuel economy and higher top speed, etc. I think the H1 rims make the truck look super in additional the the gains in functionality. Lots of posts on this subject but that's where the confusion sets in for me. I am as great mechanic so I can install everything myself. If another member has taken the time to photograph the steps taken to lift his truck I would love to see them! Also looking for the best place to purchase four of the 2" spacers required for proper backspacing of the H1 rims on the M1008.

 

[dstang97]

I know this subject has been covered alot, but could use some ideas on the easiest way to get these tires on my M1008. The tires are brand new, the rims in great shape, and i would love to use them too, b/c the tires are already mounted on them. So, as far as i can tell my two options are.

1. Put on a 3" lift, and 2" spacers . I might need to cut my fenders a little, but wont have to screw with the steering linkage, and the wheels should just bolt on. I have never heard of anyone using spacers, are they real dependable, has anyone heard of them coming lose, or unbalanced while driving?
2. I could get rid of the rims, but standard offset 16.5" rims, put on a lift and call it a day.

Anyone done this before, got any pointers?

Thanks guys.

where did you get those? Im looking for a set. I would buy off set rims or run dually hubs and spacers in the rear

 

[Cucvnut]

spacers suck get them re centered

 

[skark_burmer]

I also would not suggest the use of spacers.

Contact a guy on Pirate 4x4, Todd Wooten i think is his name. Its easy to find, just look up "recentered H1's" and you will find him. 406YJ i think is his user name.
I bought one set of his wheels for one of my projects and i am going to buy 2 more sets for my other trucks, they are that good.
Unfortunately you are looking at about $200 per wheel, (which is a great deal for what you get) but you are still dropping $800 for a set.

The rims you have, are not a good fit for a 1008 sorry to say.

 

[allrevup]

The CrossOver stering is a "SHOULD" do upgade kind of a thing. I consider it a nessecity with the 1973-1987(1991) GM trucks Any time you off road a lot or go to wider 35" or taller tires. The added weight inertia & friction from the taller/wider and heavier tires/wheels puts a lot of strain on the steering componets and frame during turns and wheel drops. Not a nessesity to fit the 36" or 37" Humvee tires. Is just that the Chevrolet/GMC truck and SUV from this period have a weak stering box mount area and can benefict immensly from this upgrades, it beef then up and alow for better articulation.
You will need to have more then 3" of lift for the 37" or even the 36" with with most "spring lift" even with 4" you will need to do do some cutting to your front fenders. A 6" lift , even do is taller "is not" a resepi for drive shaft angles or vibration problems.
The spacers, recenter wheels or the dually front hubs will solve the problem with the 71/4" back space on the Humvee rims. I have run 2" well forge T6 alum. spacers on my front and rear differntials for 5 years and 20K. plus miles (on and off-road). Just torque to specs ( I think 140+/- lbs incrementally at instalation and check a couple of times the first couple of hundred miles and periodioliacal as you should with any wheel set) they come metric and SAE, get the SAE studs and you may want to concider 3"-3.5" for the rear axle narower track.
With any tires taller then the 235/85/16(=31"-32" ) on the CUCV trucks, Your engine will run at lower RPM's at a given speed and achive higher top speeds at a given RPM, a good thing. But at the expence of low end acceleration and power unless you regear the differentials (ones again "maybe" not nessesary to you) in order to mantain the same power band even with the 4.56 you may not see better MPG, becouse of the increase friction from the wider tires and more air drag/turbulance under the truck specialy at higer speeds.
There are a mirriad of Low profile steps that you can install to address ingress/agress, look for "Carr" or similar steps from "Wildhorse" among others. As AJMBlazer recomended to you in a different tread, go to the OffRoadDesign, Pirate4x4 and ColoradoK5 websites for all you want to know information and concerns. Do a search here and you will see several photos of everithing outline. Regards!

 

[tsmall07]

You don't need a lift if you don't mind trimming fenders.

A mechanic I talked to at a base (while picking up my deuce) told me they used to run them on M1008s by just running them backwards. I don't know why it wouldn't work. The tires would probably stick out far though.

 

[tsmall07]

Cross over steering...

The CUCV comes with push/pull steering. Look on the inside of the driver's tire and you'll see the drag link. This link pushes and pulls (front to back) the steering knuckle on the axle. The knuckle, in turn, actuates the tie rod which turns the pass side tire. This setup is only useful on road. It is very difficult if not impossible to turn the wheels if you're crossed up in some ruts off road. That is why people go to cross over steering. This changes the drag link so that it goes across the axle to actuate the pass side steering knuckle (hence cross over). This causes a side to side motion of the steering. There is a greater mechanical advantage with this system so the steering is much improved off road.

As you can see, truck/4x4 guys are very creative with the names they give parts. You can usually figure out what something is simply by thinking about the name.

Buy here:
Dana 60 Steering Kit - Sky's Off-road Design

Here is a link to a thread I started about the tie rod I built. Doing this will greatly decrese your cost in a cross over system (if you can build it).

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/16905-my-new-tie-rod.html

Hope that helps some. If you have more quesitons, it has been covered here a lot, I'm sure. It is also covered very well on Pirate4x4.com

 

[allrevup]

the Humvee wheels have connical lugs holes and nuts and can not safelly be used reverse for high sustain speeds, they may not even center correctlly as the CUCV are not hubcentric, some of the Civilian early H1 Hummers "The scout" among then had the single 1 piece steel wheels and were hub centric as an example. On a side note the spacer, if and when well desing and forge are used in tractor trailers in both steel and aluminium made materials and are DOT complaint.

 

[tsmall07]

if and when well desing and forge are used in tractor trailers in both steel and aluminium made materials and are DOT complaint.

Do what now?

 

[allrevup]

First, Sorry about my spelling. What I am sayng is that a lot of people dissmise the use of spacers, but spacers when properly made have found uses among heavy rigs and are DOT approved (DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPOTATION) even for some big rigs application.
They are not and answer to all, but a alternative to recentering wheels and the used of dually front hubs when looking for ways to the use of Humvee wheels on CUCV trucks and in my oppinion simple and not as involbed (recentering or having to have then recenter= time consuming or having to locate dually front hubs- taking apart) the other two alternatives for people wanting the look and beneficts of the beadlook found on the H1 wheels

 

[Recovry4x4]

Can someone provide information on a commercially made spacer that has failed? I know lots of folks that run them and wheel them and not one failure. Good quality and proper torquing is the key as allrevup pointed out!

 

[skark_burmer]

Well, thats the problem.
Finding a commercially made spacer for 8 lug wheels isnt something you can pick up at the local auto parts store. Im sure they are out there, but ive not seen them for a 8 lug wheel.

Most of the ones i have seen are homemade jobs, some better than others. These are all on light Porsche's and if not made right will develop stress cracks around the inner lug holes. And when one lug fails, the other 4 are not far behind. And nobody ever inspects theirs on a regular basis, because, well "i made them, so i know they are good".

If you do get a set of spacers make sure they are steel, and have a warranty, and come with the required hardware. If they are from a company that has been around a while, here in America, and makes spacers for other applications (lighter and heavier) you should be safe.
Just make sure to use anti seize on all the nuts, torque to spec and inspect them from time to time.

 

[dirtyfingernails]

I'm running DRW front hubs on my K5 to fit the HMMWV rims and 2 ihch aluminum spacers on the 14 bolt. No compaints so far. Picture show a DRW hub next to SRW hub with the aluminum spacer. I felt better with the spacers only on the rear. Steel spacers are considerably more expensive.

 

[86M10086.2L]

4 inch lift, 2 inch wheel spacers no fender trimming. hard offroading they rub. @ 6k miles no issues. Use your brain when buying and installing them, don't be lazy and check them once in awhile. You'll have no issues

 

[hogtruck]

www.ezaccessory.com Try this bunch. Good to work with.

 

[aboonski]

Thanks to all for the info that will be of great use to me very shortly. I really appreciate the detail that Allrevup provided and 86M10086.2L, nice truck you have! I knew I could get by with less than a 6" lift and that's about what I want for my truck. Thanks to the photos of your Blazer Dirtyfingernails - I saw where you have that one for sale here in Florida. I have to keep from spending a fortune on anything anymore so my old 86 M1008 will have to last me a lifetime once I get it set up for Florida sand and mud. I really baby my CUCV for the most part so hard runs in Suburban Estates will not happen once I get the H1 rims on the truck.

 

[dirtyfingernails]

Aboonski, Wow! Nothing gets by you does it? I put the old beast up for sale yesterday! I'll make you a great bargain (ha ha). 86M10086.2L--Nice rig!!

 

[Bunkerbuilder]

Here is 406 YJ's thread on Pirate4x4.

Ive been wanting to get a set of these but they are not cheap.

And I will have the wheels soon at a very reasonable cost.


RECENTERED H1 Special!!!! - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board

RECENTERED H1 Wheels on the cheap!!!
I thought it was time to start a thread with recentered wheels only.
(I'm only recentering 12 bolts at this time)
Here is what you get.
I supply you with the stock 12 bolt wheel and rubber runflat if you want it.
(Wheel below has been painted they don't start out this pretty)

I take the plate off of it and cut the stock center out on a WaterJet. The holes are cut perfect.

I then supply you with a new center.

And weld them in.

(I have just hooked up with Mad Mac and am offering pressed centers as well.)

In the flat centers I can set your backspace from 2" to 4.5". With pressed centers they are 3.5" only. I offer centers for all axles. dana 30's to rockwells and Mogs.
I then send the wheels off to have them sandblasted and powdercoated. Holes have the proper degree so there is no slop with your lugnuts.

I am throwing in a NEW free rubber o ring as well as NEW metal valve cores.
All for $200 ea
For 40 extra we will supply you with a rock ring and weld it in.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Perhaps it is just me but the HMMWV 12 bolt wheels just lose their appeal after the re-centering. Don't care for the appearance. I'm gonna have to go the spacer route when I do mine.