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Hmmwv beadlocks on m1008

lavarok

Well-known member
1,119
33
48
Location
Fellsmere, FL
I'm running DRW front hubs on my K5 to fit the HMMWV rims and 2 ihch aluminum spacers on the 14 bolt. No compaints so far. Picture show a DRW hub next to SRW hub with the aluminum spacer. I felt better with the spacers only on the rear. Steel spacers are considerably more expensive.
I see you also got a soft topper for your blazer! Nice. I removed the stitching from the "softtopper.com" labels on my yellow M1009's soft topper. For the price, I am not giving away free advertising!
 

lavarok

Well-known member
1,119
33
48
Location
Fellsmere, FL
4 inch lift, 2 inch wheel spacers no fender trimming. hard offroading they rub. @ 6k miles no issues. Use your brain when buying and installing them, don't be lazy and check them once in awhile. You'll have no issues
What type of speeds are you hitting top end now?
 

dirtyfingernails

New member
778
4
0
Location
Gainesville, FL
I see you also got a soft topper for your blazer! Nice. I removed the stitching from the "softtopper.com" labels on my yellow M1009's soft topper. For the price, I am not giving away free advertising!
Nice. It was VERY expensive! It fits well and was easy to install. They are the only game in town....
 

aboonski

Member
722
8
18
Location
West Melbourne Florida
KENNY!!!!! Are you putting H1 rims on your M1008 too? Let me know where you obtain all of your lift kit parts and spacers because I really do not know where to begin. I am constantly taking notes from all the threads about the subject but really no further along than when I first started thinking about adding Hummer rims on my truck. Imagine the lift you could get if you took deuce leaf springs and used them on an M1008!
 
What lift kit or spring part # / Manufacturer did you use that maintained the GVWR of the CUCV ?

I have the M1008's and M1028's that I would like to maintain the weight carrying capability of.

4 inch lift, 2 inch wheel spacers no fender trimming. hard offroading they rub. @ 6k miles no issues. Use your brain when buying and installing them, don't be lazy and check them once in awhile. You'll have no issues
 

86M10086.2L

Member
387
2
18
Location
Long Island, New York
I used Tuff country HD spring up front. Couldn't give you a part number, I got them from Off Road Design. Right now I have lift blocks and a zero rate in the back. After I fix my floors I'm goona remove the blocks and do a shackle flip in the back. With the 36's you pick up about 5 mph. So I can do @60mph at what used to be 55mph and so on. The 36's suck on the highway though. They have a tendency to be slighly out of round, and even when balanced properly they still bounce on the highway. Can't beat the price though. I will not recenter my wheels for the reason in my opinion they look stupid after it's done. I wanted military hummer rims not aftermarket beadlocks. Someday when the mood strikes me I'll put DRW hubs up front. Don't let the nay sayer talk you out of wheel spacers. I'll agree they are not the ideal solution, but when used and maintained properly they are as safe as anything else.
 

aboonski

Member
722
8
18
Location
West Melbourne Florida
That's great info about the expectations of the 36's at highway speeds. I will probably do the lift and use the H1 rims & tires when off-roading in muddy conditions. My friend Lavarok bought some great road tires for his M1008 which fit on the srock rims and are slightly taller than what came on the truck originally. He gets a very nice ride from them and probably a little higher top speed as well. I'll check out Off Road Design to see about the leaf springs. Thanks for the post 86M10086.2L.
 

aboonski

Member
722
8
18
Location
West Melbourne Florida
I just went to Off Road Design and found superb photos of cross over steering and the highsteer system which answers a lot of my questions about those particular modifications. Now I have to pick out the proper amount of lift for my truck and go from there. Off Road Design has the best photos of any website I have been to yet.
 

86M10086.2L

Member
387
2
18
Location
Long Island, New York
Thats pretty much what I do now. I have a set of Nitto Terra Grapplers 285/75/16's on the stock wheels. I use them until I know I'm going 4 wheeiling somewhere or if I'm going to a rally or show I throw the beadlocks back on. Don't be scared to use the 36's They are a good inexpensive large daimeter tire. Not all are like mine, but from what most have told me is that there was a flaw in the manufacting or desing that led them to be more out of round than a standard production tire. Whether this is true I not I can't say. But my tires were new, never mounted. And I've had them on two sets of rims. Both balanced and they rode the same. It's a chore to change them, they're pretty heavy. But in the end, I think the result is worth it.
 
4 inch lift, 2 inch wheel spacers no fender trimming. hard offroading they rub. @ 6k miles no issues. Use your brain when buying and installing them, don't be lazy and check them once in awhile. You'll have no issues
Did you have to move the front axle forward to keep the front tires from rubbing the cab at full lock/deflection? I am assuming those are 37's...
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,804
61
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
I did on my truck. On my old burban with the axle in the stock locatation it would hit the fenderwell. With the M1008 I moved the axle forward and it does not rub.
 
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