Smokes White and no start

[solarmon]

Don't get ahead of yourself and replace everything just yet. You should still do the tests, there is still the possibility that it is just the glow plug relay. I had an intermittent one on mine that was hard to find- sometimes it had 12V going to the plug and it always made the audible click making it seem like it was working just fine.

Also, moving the glow plugs to be fed by only 1 battery is not excessive at all, in fact it is exactly the same load. This is because half of the load is that resistor when across both batteries. The reason for the resistor is so that it would be compatible with the slave jumper (24V). But do your research if you move that wire.

I had a shorted resistor from the 24 volt side, and the resulting dead glow plugs.

Hooked up to the 12 volt side, and have had NO PROBLEMS

 

[CUCV85]

outcome of this post

Any updates? Did moving the wire work?

I'm having the same problem, truck always started even in the dead of winter then last week nothing.
I turned on the key and cycled the glow plugs, but I never heard the click when the GP light went out?
Then it cranked and no start, with white smoke out the exhaust.
I plan on looking at it this weekend just wanted to see the outcome of this post.

Chad.

Good to go after doing the bypass. Take the Resistors off and use the one side closest to GP Relay. Just drill out thye small o ring and place it onto the 12v Diamond shaped block. THe wire is already the right length and has eyelets on both ends of the wire.
I changed my glow plugs out with original wellman 070 purchased from INDUSA DIST on internet 60.00. Starts great now.
Oh, I also put a s603 GP Relay from Advance Auto Parts on for 28.00 apposed to (Napa St-85 for 85.00)
SO FOR 88.00
you'll have: TRUE 12 volts by doing the bypass( FREE ),
going to the NEW glow plug relay, then to the NEW glow plugs.
FIRE IN THE HOLE

 

[Mudstone]

i sometimes get a big plume of white smoke when i start my truck after a few days. is this abnormal?

 

[Monty]

Good to go after doing the bypass. Take the Resistors off and use the one side closest to GP Relay. Just drill out thye small o ring and place it onto the 12v Diamond shaped block. THe wire is already the right length and has eyelets on both ends of the wire.
I changed my glow plugs out with original wellman 070 purchased from INDUSA DIST on internet 60.00. Starts great now.
Oh, I also put a s603 GP Relay from Advance Auto Parts on for 28.00 apposed to (Napa St-85 for 85.00)
SO FOR 88.00
you'll have: TRUE 12 volts by doing the bypass( FREE ),
going to the NEW glow plug relay, then to the NEW glow plugs.
FIRE IN THE HOLE

I appreciate all the info, I charged up the batterys to make sure they had a full charge but didn't get to test this.

Thanks again.

 

[steve87]

I have this same problem. I have read all of these posts over and over and can't figure out that bypass you guys are talking about on the diamond shaped relay. Anybody able to get some pics? I am still going to get a new GP relay and GPs to see if that will fix my problem, it seemed to fix yours. I went to the Advance Auto site and only found this GP relay. Is that the right one for an 85 1009 in 24v? What GPs are the best to get?

 

[ida34]

One work of caution. You can not check the resistor by checking the voltage on the glow plug relay side unless all the glow plugs are working. If there is no load the resistor it will show 24 volts on both sides. Only under a load will it show 12 volts. It takes a second or so for the voltage to drop also. The biggest problem with the resister is if one glow plug fails then the voltage goes up to the rest because in the drop in the load. This causes other glow plugs to fail one after the other. After one fails the voltage goes up a little more so that causes the process to speed up and most people don't catch it until a few if not all of the plugs are bad. I had a connector come off on one plug and noticed it was taking longer and longer to start. I checked and two glow plugs were burned out while the one with the connector off was still good. Point being, the only way to check the resistor properly is to disconnect both sides and check the resistance with a multimeter.

 

[steve87]

So is this the relay to get? Does it work if I have a 24v system or does it even matter? Glow Plug Relay by BWD - Part GPR1Z - Advance Auto Parts

Is there a thread on here about bypassing the relay? Is that even an option?

 

[Chief]

White smoke, glow plugs?

You might want to look at the info i gave LTWVARNG "Are these the right glow plugs"

 

[CUCV85]

i sometimes get a big plume of white smoke when i start my truck after a few days. is this abnormal?

nope as long as it goes away after say the engine rpms come down after the cold start solenoid backs off and your now at normal idel.

 

[CUCV85]

I have this same problem. I have read all of these posts over and over and can't figure out that bypass you guys are talking about on the diamond shaped relay. Anybody able to get some pics? I am still going to get a new GP relay and GPs to see if that will fix my problem, it seemed to fix yours. I went to the Advance Auto site and only found this GP relay. Is that the right one for an 85 1009 in 24v? What GPs are the best to get?

You take the big read wire, passengers side of the resistors - off the 24 volt terminal buss block. Now take the red wire off the Glow Plug Relay (GPR) on the drivers side of the resistors. Now remove the resistors from the firewall behind the Air Cleaner. Take the resistors cover off. Remove the red wire on the right side of the resistors. Drill out that eye bolt connector slightly. You will use this 1 foot long red wire for the bypass. You take the large eye bolt end and place BACK onto the GPR. You place the other end of that short red wire YUP you guessed it right above the GPR onto THE 12 Volt Terminal (Diamond Shaped) Block. Now you are supplying the 12 volt Solenoid "GPR" 12 volts from the 12 volt terminal block that is diamond shaped. You are supplying the 12 volt glow plugs - 12 volts from the GPR. Dang isn't that something...
NOW - fellas will tell you that you are drawing all 12 volts of power from the FRONT battery ALONE. No kidding, if you WANT to rotate your batteries like every 6-8 months. Or don't your choice.
I have a dozen CUCV's in my family and they are ALL now resistors bypassed
have been for ovr 6 months and NONE of them have had ANY issues with Glow Plugs, GPR's, Battery going dead from being used to start the Glow system and start the truck. Nothing.
Wellman 070 INDUSA on internet 60.00 for 8 or put 1/4 terminal ends on the glow plug wire's and use Wellman 050 60.00
or a local brand like ac 60G's 80.00
replace the GPR with s603 from Advance Auto Parts for 28.00
looks just like the Napa st85 that is 85.00
do the resistors bypass (FREE) you already have the short red wire!
*unless you must be slave cabled
or you will be using slave cable to jump others
or run 24 volt tools from slave port.
Scratch your head, ok now supply 12 volt glow plugs
with 12 volts! makes sense.
I carry 2 set of jumper cables in case I need them... I don't use the slave port.

 

[CUCV85]

So is this the relay to get? Does it work if I have a 24v system or does it even matter? Glow Plug Relay by BWD - Part GPR1Z - Advance Auto Parts

Is there a thread on here about bypassing the relay? Is that even an option?

NO to that part # use the s603 for 28.00
it is the same as the Napa st85 for 85.00 IDENTICAL

NO bypassing to any relay, except the Starter Solenoid "starter relay" some call it. When you go to a 12 volt starter you don't need this ac40 relay anymore.

And no to bypassing the GPR.
You need it.
Even if your GP controller card under the dash goes to crap (burnt terminal)
you do the Manual pushbutton set up and are taking off the light blue wire on the gpr and placing your own wire on there, running it inside the cab to your momentary switch (which is grounding) those activating power THROUGH the GPR down to the glow plugs to make them warm and fuzzy.
take r easy - oh never let your buddies touch your CUCV,
well don't let them work on it!

 

[SmokeyDod]

I have two of the six trucks converted to the PB and the resistor bypassed. However, since I did this (2+yrs) I still use the slave adaptor to becranked or crank one of the others. I still have the 24V starter so still have 24V going to the slave outlet. I also some of the 24V Robo Impact wrenchs & use them all the time. So far I have NO issues with using the slave outlet as far as my charging system. This setup still lets 12V go to GPlugs. I don't understand what problem is or maybe it just hasn't hit me yet.

 

[CUCV85]

I have two of the six trucks converted to the PB and the resistor bypassed. However, since I did this (2+yrs) I still use the slave adaptor to becranked or crank one of the others. I still have the 24V starter so still have 24V going to the slave outlet. I also some of the 24V Robo Impact wrenchs & use them all the time. So far I have NO issues with using the slave outlet as far as my charging system. This setup still lets 12V go to GPlugs. I don't understand what problem is or maybe it just hasn't hit me yet.

won't hit you obviously...
well, I'll be.
I was just quoting what I was told.
I was specifically told not to jump or be jumped from the slave cable port up front after doing the resistors bypass.
I don't have any tools that run off that 24 volt port,
or slave cables to jump another CUCV ETC.

 

[Sgt Hulka]

Glow plugs. Sorry. Glow plugs...

 

[Seabee15]

This thread has been very very helpful, I've made A TON of notes on this now, and a whole bunch of things to check on my cucv that is having the same problems...thank you

But what if it is a fuel problem? I've heard that squirting starting fluid down into the engine is a Terrible thing to do...So how else can you check to make sure your fuel system is functioning correctly?

I've was told this the other day:

"my guess is that your fuel may be draining back due to a bad checkvalve either in line or in the fuel pump passenger side up front mounted to the frame. Replace that piece of fuel line on that check valve on top of the IP (That's the beginning of the return system not where fuel enters the IP) If in the morning that fuel line is empty from the bend down towards the IP, you have either a fuel drainback problem or a fuel leak in the supply. Either condition can cause that problem"

 

[3dubs]

NEVER USE STARTER FLUID unless you disconnect the glow plugs and then only to start it. Just take the hose off and remove the check valve. There is a glass ball in there so you should be able to see through it. Spray from both sides with carb cleaner and maybe use a tooth pick. Do not use anything that may break or scratch the glass ball. I would put it in an ultra sonic cleaner for a few minutes spray with carb cleaner, put in ultrasonic cleaner ... If the check valve has junk in it the engine will not get enough fuel. But cleaning the check valve will not hurt anything and does not cost much so it should be on the list of things to do anytime something is hinky with the engine.

Good luck!

 

[Stratoghost]

Could someone who has or is doing this post some pics to show how to do this?
Thanks!

 

[donalloy1]

i am w/stratoghost. please post pics of what your doing

 

[mistaken1]

Link to pictures:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/1...neutral-until-rpms-creep-up-4.html#post699410

 

[Barrman]

Slave starting.

If the firewall mounted glow plug resistor is removed or bypassed. It is still ok to slave start the truck as long as the front battery has 12 volts or more. Basically, have at least one good battery of the two and make sure it is the front one. If both are bad, do the two civilian jumper cable thing to seperate power sources for each battery in the truck.

Remember, the truck is a 12 volt Chevy that has extra wires added for the slave system and the 24Volt starter. The slave system doesn't go directly to the batteries. It goes to the distribution strips on the passenger side firewall. The goal is getting 24 volts to the starter motor, not charging the truck up. Yes, the batteries are connected to it, but not individually. That means 24 volts could be back fed into the 12 volt side of the truck if the front battery is stone cold dead when the slave cables are hooked up. This can also happen on a truck with the glow plug resistor still there and functioning.

A DVOM should be in the truck at all times is my suggestion. If it won't start, check each battery. If the rear is dead, slave cable to another mv or civilian jumper cable just the rear since the front is good to go.

If the front is dead and the rear good. Swap them so the good one is in the front. Then slave away.

If they are both dead, Charge them individually or jump them individually until the gauge on the dash is in the yellow. Then, you can slave it without worry.

The original question of this thread was about white smoke and no start. His problem turned out to be glow plugs burned up by the resistor. If they had checked out good, another thing to check real fast is the green wire on the IP. It is the fast idle and cold advance power. That really makes a difference when starting a cold 6.2. If you doubt that, go unplug yours and try to start it cold. It might "harumph" just as you let go of the starter, but it probably won't run on its own. Throttle will have to be applied and held for a few minutes before it will idle too. Just something else to keep in mind if your truck ran yesterday just fine but won't light off today.