How do you start your truck in cold weather

[1986Blazerk5]

Just wondering the best way you use to start your truck in cold weather like below 25 degrres i use a 50/50 mix of gas and diesel in a spary bottle to spray into the intake when cold starting it is not mixed in the tank!!!!! i have been told that using starter fluid (ether) is bad is that true?

 

[Westech]

if you have a 6.2 diesel why on earth are you using anything but diesel fuel? its not a multi fuel.. running gas and diesel is just not right. Your going to blow up that engine.

 

[1986Blazerk5]

if you have a 6.2 diesel why on earth are you using anything but diesel fuel? its not a multi fuel.. running gas and diesel is just not right. Your going to blow up that engine.

its not mixed in the tank it is a spray bottle like they use for cleaning that is spary into the intake its not mixed in the tank!!!! my auto tech teacher told me about this

 

[Westech]

If you need that to start at only 25* you have a major glow plug problem. My CUCV started at 5* no problem with no block heater. really it should start with no heaters down to -20*

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oTGUPYQrOqM[/media]

 

[1986Blazerk5]

i think i do have a major glow plug problem my idiot older brother fried the electrical system by dropping a wrench on the battery termonal the vehicle was in the shop for a couple of days it runs fine but has trouble starting in cold temperaure, what would be a thing to check the glow plug relay is brand new, the glow plugs are about 4 months old and about 1,500 miles on them, it is not the same as when we bought it and i did not know about holding the pedel down all the way i will try that next time

 

[jdemaris]

Just wondering the best way you use to start your truck in cold weather like below 25 degrres i use a 50/50 mix of gas and diesel in a spary bottle to spray into the intake when cold starting it is not mixed in the tank!!!!! i have been told that using starter fluid (ether) is bad is that true?

Have a working glow-plug system and use your block heater.

In regard to ether, when used wrong, which is usually the case, it can break top piston rings, fracture pistons, and crack precombustion chambers. A general rule of thumb is - you never use ether on a indirect-injected diesel. On a direct-injected yes, but even then, via proper ether injectors.

You should never be using it on a 6.2.

 

[doghead]

Flip your sun visor down, and read the starting instructions. If that does not work, look at the Tech Manuals and diagnose your Glow Plug system. I suggest you do not listen to your shop instructor(He gave bad advise).

 

[BKubu]

I agree with the others who said that their trucks started with the glow plugs only. While it generally does not get that cold in MD, it was in the 20s for several days in a row recently. My truck started without any hesitation. I was pleasantly surprised how quickly it started...like a deuce...much faster than previous CUCVs that I've owned.

 

[1986Blazerk5]

Flip your sun visor down, and read the starting instructions. If that does not work, look at the Tech Manuals and diagnose your Gloe Plug system. I suggest you do not listen to your shop instructor(He gave bad advise).

i read the starting instructions on the sun visor but it is badly fadded out so i could not get all the info

 

[jdemaris]

i think i do have a major glow plug problem my idiot older brother fried the electrical system by dropping a wrench on the battery termonal the vehicle was in the shop for a couple of days it runs fine but has trouble starting in cold temperaure, what would be a thing to check the glow plug relay is brand new, the glow plugs are about 4 months old and about 1,500 miles on them, it is not the same as when we bought it and i did not know about holding the pedel down all the way i will try that next time

The age of the glow plugs means nothing. They could be four hours old and still be burnt out. All depends on what type plugs and how you've got them hooked up.

What is this thing about holding the pedal to the floor? I've worked in several Stanadyne pump shops and that is a new one to me. A gas engine with a mechanically acitivated choke - yes. But the Stanadyne injection pump shoud have the fuel metering valve open regardless of pedal position - unless you've got something in there I don't know about? If the power is off to the fuel shut-off solenoid, a spring pushes that fuel metering valve closed. Turn the key on, and the spring gets out of the way and the meteringvalve is pulled all the way open - regardless of throttle position.

 

[doghead]

jdemaris, do you own a cucv? The TM and the starting insrtuctions on the visor, both tell you to use some throttle, when cold starting.


I do it, and it works. If I don't, it does not start as well.

 

[Westech]

yeah!

 

[91W350]

My M1009 started at 5 degrees with no heat or starting fluids. Just let the glow plugs cycle, pedal to the floor, like the starting instructions on the visor say and it fired right up. My M1008 started the same way at 7 degrees below. I must say I was impressed. I had warned my wife that she would probably have to take me to work. I was pretty surprised when it kicked right off that morning. Some of the members have spoken of starting to 20 below and beyond. We get that kind of wind chills, but not tatic temperatures. Glen

 

[jdemaris]

jdemaris, do you own a cucv? The TM and the starting insrtuctions on the visor, both tell you to use some throttle, when cold starting.


I do it, and it works. If I don't, it does not start as well.

Yes, I've got three M1009s along with 20 other (civilian) 6.2 trucks and Blazers and one mini 4WD motorhome. The injection pumps are basically the same on all. Delivery rates vary a little along with the timing advance curves, shut-off solenoid voltage, etc. And, a few military spec pumps (and cold-area civilian) have the "arctic" thin fuel kits stuck into them.

My point was and is that the throttle position even at rest, leaves the fuel metering valve inside the injection pump wide open. The moment the engine starts, then the governor fly-weights will push the metering vavle towards closed, unless you depress the pedal.

So, what should happen is . . . pedal position makes no difference in intial staring, but if you don't push down by the time it kicks over - it might die if very cold and you'll have to start over again. My comments were directed towards the original poster and his no-start situation. I wasn't saying "don't do it." That no-start issue should have nothing to do with pedal position. As far as the start descripion up on the visor - to be honest, I've never read any of them. I think all my diesel trucks have something written up there but I've never had any reason to read.

I've worked as a diesel and pump tech for 40 years and am pretty well versed on how to start most of them without reading the instructions. That is except for some of the rare ones that require using a hand-primer control.

 

[doghead]

I was not doubting you or your comments. Just wondering what you had and what your experience with MVs(cucv) was. It sounds like you are pretty much an "expert" on these IPs. That's great, we could use some good help on the site! What part of NY are you in?

 

[1986Blazerk5]

How many times should i "cycle" the glow plugs before tring to crank and what would be a thing to check to see if the glow plugs are heating up and if the system is working right, i already replaced the relay

 

[Westech]

one time

 

[jdemaris]

I was not doubting you or your comments. Just wondering what you had and what your experience with MVs(cucv) was. It sounds like you are pretty much an "expert" on these IPs. That's great, we could use some good help on the site! What part of NY are you in?

If anything, maybe a "former expert." I haven't worked at an injection pump or diesel shop since 1991. But, as far as Standyne DB2 pumps go, not much has changed since then. - except parts have gotten cheaper. In civilian use, the DB2s ceased to exist after 1993 in GMs and 1994 in Fords.
I have a shop here for my own stuff, but don't have any bosses anymore.


I live 20 miles from Oneonta, 20 miles from Cobleskill, 20 miles from Stamford, and 20 miles from Cooperstown. Otsego County, Central NY. Some of my CUCVs came from the Mohawk Indian reseveration up north. They get them for free and auction them off once in awhile (which might be illegal). Most of the ones they get are real beat up.

 

[jdemaris]

How many times should i "cycle" the glow plugs before tring to crank and what would be a thing to check to see if the glow plugs are heating up and if the system is working right, i already replaced the relay

The best way to be sure of the plugs is to check amp draw at each plug. Put an amp-meter inbetween the power lead and the plug and try one at a time.
An ohm-meter can give you false readings, and a voltage reading will not tell you if the plug itself is actually working. Any plug that is making heat has to draw amperage.

As far a cycling goes, all depends on what system you're using, what brand plug, etc. Some alternative plugs draw different amperage and have different heat times. You should always try to start after the first round of whatever (9-14 seconds). If no go, turn the key all the way off, and the back on to recycle (if a civilian system). The main thing is, the engine needs red hot plugs to fire. At first, it takes a plug anywhere from 9 to 15 seconds to turn red hot (depending on brand and spec type). Once it's cycled and been off for a spell, it won't take as long the next time to get as hot. Takes some guesswork unless you've got a good automatic system with temp-draw sensors working. Some off the road equipment does it the easy way. Puts an extra glow-plug on the dashboard so you can actually see how hot it's getting, without counting seconds. Just keep in mind that some el-cheapo brand glow plugs will blow to pieces if heated longer then 10 seconds straight.

 

[1986Blazerk5]

The best way to be sure of the plugs is to check amp draw at each plug. Put an amp-meter inbetween the power lead and the plug and try one at a time.
An ohm-meter can give you false readings, and a voltage reading will not tell you if the plug itself is actually working. Any plug that is making heat has to draw amperage.

As far a cycling goes, all depends on what system you're using, what brand plug, etc. Some alternative plugs draw different amperage and have different heat times. You should always try to start after the first round of whatever (9-14 seconds). If no go, turn the key all the way off, and the back on to recycle (if a civilian system). The main thing is, the engine needs red hot plugs to fire. At first, it takes a plug anywhere from 9 to 15 seconds to turn red hot (depending on brand and spec type). Once it's cycled and been off for a spell, it won't take as long the next time to get as hot. Takes some guesswork unless you've got a good automatic system with temp-draw sensors working. Some off the road equipment does it the easy way. Puts an extra glow-plug on the dashboard so you can actually see how hot it's getting, without counting seconds. Just keep in mind that some el-cheapo brand glow plugs will blow to pieces if heated longer then 10 seconds straight.

What is the BEST glow plugs to get