M656 removing ball joints?

[sangamon]

I've started the "Bjorn's boiled joints" treatment on my M656 to loosen up the steering. Unfortunately, I'm stuck at the very first step, namely removing the ball joints. I've attached some pictures of joints that I've been trying to remove, as well as some that I haven't started yet.

A buddy at work recommended the "hit both sides with hammers" method. I've tried hitting the top of the big nut (turned upside down). I've tried a puller. No success so far. I haven't yet tried a pickle fork or jack hammer. And, since there's a salmon stream on my property, I can't just "nuke it from orbit".

I realize that this is a very basic, newbie problem. My mechanical activities the last twenty years have all been boat related. I don't have any ball joints on my boat. I've done searches in the forums, but the posts just say "remove ball joints" or somesuch, without much detail.

What do you folks with big trucks do to remove these joints?

Thanks.

 

[Westech]

there tie rod ends.. ball joints control suspension. Sorry 16 year ASE talking. And get a puller.. most Autozones and parts store Rent the tool for free.

 

[gringeltaube]

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A buddy at work recommended the "hit both sides with hammers" method.
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That's it! Not the nut and not the threaded stud, but both sides of the eye (of the steering arm, draglink, aux.arm, etc.). Striking one side with a big (sledge)hammer while holding a bigger one firmly against the opposite side.
In confined areas getting enough momentum with only one hand can be difficult sometimes; a "Soldier B" holding against can make all the difference. Some penetrant oil will sure help. Add some patience & perseverance... they will come off!

G.

 

[73m819]

i have had good luck with a pickle fork, this will at least load the joint for the two hammer trick

 

[southdave]

ball joint remover on air hammer works wonders

 

[cranetruck]

Make sure that the piece in which the tapered joint is seated is solidly supported, any vibration is a sign of the entire assembly absorbing the blows from the hammer. I used a 3 lb hammer for this.
The nut you are using should be screwed in flush with the end of the stud. Like I said, I have extras, so don't worry about sacrificing that one you are using, which should be good for all.

I take it you tested the steering and found it hard to operate.

 

[sangamon]

Thanks to everyone for your suggestions and corrections. My next trip up north will be on Saturday. Hopefully I'll have some good news by Saturday afternoon.

On the ball joints vs tie-rod ends correction - oh boy, I get to learn new nomenclature! I finally got all the marine terms figured out and I get to start again. At least I don't have to learn technical German and technical French, like on my Unimogs.

If I can just get my shop built, I won't have to do all this work in the yard. I can't take things apart very far, because I'll probably need to move the truck when the construction starts.