Just won a M1010

[Keith_J]

Have you considered Freeze 12?
freeze 12 r12,FREEZE12 COMPATIBLE R12 REPLACEMENT A/C REFRIGERANT

I used this on a 90 Ford Crown Victoria and it worked great. You do have to find a mechanic that is licensed to install it, but it is a direct swap for R12. I have to fully tested my A/C on my M1010, but if it needs a recharge I was considering Freeze 12.

Similar to R406a but requires lubricant change. If the old mineral oil isn't fully removed, there can be problems. It might last, it might not.

There are 2 distinct problems with conversions, material compatibility and pressure-temperature relationship. The oils used with HFCs cannot tolerate HCFCs, hydro-chloro fluorocarbons. And both Freeze 12 and R-406a contain HCFCs.

The real bad boy was the Cl2F2C, the old R-12. Because it was fully halogenated, it was very stable in the atmosphere. Anything with hydrogen is much less damaging, like R-22, HF2Cl2C. R134a has no chlorine, hence the need for different lubricants.

 

[Pawnshop]

Truck looks good Mark, THANKS for sinking the hook in further...

 

[mkcoen]

Like I tell everyone "I'm not just a user but a dealer as well." Glad I can flame the addiction.

 

[acmunro]

Looks good. Sand is starting to grow on me. I have a M1010 in gray primer and I have been holding off on going
"green" I think tan would be a whole lot cooler in the summer sun. Thanks for the pics.

 

[K9Vic]

Once you go black, you never go back!!! (my M1010 is black as it was used as a Police SWAT vehicle).

I love driving my M1010 to places to get food or go shopping, really draws that odd attention from people. Two weekends ago myself and a friend went to a HAM Radio swap meet, it drew allot of attention from HAM guys wanting to us it as a command vehicle for REACT. Then on the drive back my friend saw someone taking a cell phone picture while driving down the road. I always see people looking at it while driving, you will noticed that as you get on the road more.

 

[mkcoen]

I was actually planning to go back to the 3 color camo but decided I like the tan. I will repaint it but stick with the Desert Storm configuration.

What are you guys getting fuel wise? My first half tank was a little over 11mpg and my 1st full tank (which was more hiway miles) was right at 12mpg.

 

[acmunro]

My other M1010 is a strange color combo. It has tan in the camo pattern. I don't know if it was all sand and then the
green and other colors added later. It was a guard truck.


Never really ran mine enough to tell and when I did run it the truck was not running properly. The Injector pump is
failing. When the weather up here improves I am going to change the IP and start running it. I think those figures
sound pretty good compared to my other CUCV's. I usually figure they get about 10 MPG with our hills. I don't really
check that often because I don't think I have one that has an accurate odometer. I had to calculate the MPG with trips
of known mileage.

The other M1010 had caught fire around the DUVAC before it was surplused out. Funny GL didn't mention that or
picture it. The truck was in nice enough shape otherwise that I didn't want to give it up. So I took it. I fixed
everything except for the charging system. The DUVAC was toast (literally) and associated wiring so I removed it.
I put a new GM hood on it. Some new battery cables fan shroud etc. The batteries were ok. First truck I ever got
from GL with two good batteries at the time.
I ran it around some and it runs nice, but it needs the charging system and AC fixed.

 

[lavarok]

10-12 MPG is about what I get on the highway with my M1010. I drive her around 60 MPH and try hard not to exceed 65. My truck really purrs though...for a while I thought the gear ratio was different, but it does have the stock 4.56 gearing.

Edit: Come to think of it, my MPG calcs were done prior to my new IP. I should probably do some recalculations.

 

[Keith_J]

TB 43-0001-39-8 regarding the DuVac rewiring calls for the voltage regulators on both 6Y1 Leece-Neville to be adjusted to the "HI" position I believe this is in error as the bottom alternator now pushes too much voltage out. It is not in the DuVac/TwinPUT system and it receives its regulation signal from the ignition switch.

On this M1010, the DuVac/TwinPUT system is functioning correctly but there is excessive B voltage, 29-30 volts when running. This causes the A battery to suffer voltage depression when first started. The DuVac/TwinPUT senses this over volt condition, further forcing current into the B, robbing the A battery of charge.

This issue is only when first starting...when the engine has been run for a few minutes and the DuVac switches over, all is fine.

I am going to switch the B alternator regulator over to the low position, as shown in the above TB.

 

[wlreeds]

Finally got mine home! 1500 miles round trip on 4 hours sleep, but well worth it. It looks great.

One thing I noticed, in my urban environment, the desert tan would definately have been better camoflage!

 

[acmunro]

It looks good.

 

[mkcoen]

Looks really nice. Streetbikedepot said he had a new attendent seat if you need one.

 

[Keith_J]

Resurrecting this thread for progress. We had thought replacing the burned-out diode between the IGN term on the upper alt to the FLD term on the Twinput solved the charging issues. But over the weekend, prolonged idling caused the front battery to cook, H2S spewing and a hot battery.

So after consulting the book of smarts (the TM-20) and paying attention to the wiring diagram F-10 in the Appendix had something kick off in my gray mush. And then consulting TB 43-0001-39-8 on the Duvac wiring modification, this vehicle had not been properly modified. So I set off on the journey into problem resolution.

Sure enough, the TB had not been applied. And to make matters worse, the line connecting the Twinput terminal A+ to the small terminal of the engine wiring harness block HAD MELTED!! Looked like it had been "repaired" with some strange blue wire (main is orange). And the crimp terminal was scorched, melted in two.

This meant the Twinput did not sense battery 1 voltage, hence the boiled battery. Ach zo! This was repaired IAW the TB, making the wiring to the TM-20's Appendix F-10. But still, voltage was way too high on the rear, And low on the front. Still the problem remained. So we pulled the Duvac and Twinput, cleaning 25 years of off-road dust and making sure connections were clean. The Zener diode pair (12-0-24 volt, anode ground) had burned out, another thing to worry about. The 12 volt side is a a 1N4744a which is a 15 volt Zener, the burned out one is on the 24 volt side so it should be a 1N4751a.

So I run diagnostics IAW troubleshooting section, pulling the 20 amp fuse for the engine and noting the voltage change. As expected, the change was not within the TM steps. Thoughts of pulling the volt meter relay danced in my head along with new regulators. But with two regulators, ONE must be working so I swapped. When pulling the regulators off, the IGN terminals were highly corroded. Seems Leece-Neville had used lightly plated steel fasteners, 25 years meant corrosion was certain. Slapped the now cleaner regulators on the alternators and SUCCESS!!!!

Voltage on the dash voltmeter is right in the middle green, right in the middle of the white hash. Now when tested with a DVM, and cheap ones at that, the meter is reading the PEAK voltage, the Duvac's switching SCR means there is plenty of "overshoot", much like water hammer in a plumbing circuit as a silicon controlled rectifier like the Duvac is like a fast acting gate valve. The noise is suppressed by the Zener diode pair on the Duvac.

Now I need to see if I have any of these filter diodes...and am assuming the value for the high side, if the 12 volt is a 1N4744a, the 24 volt must be double that which is a 1N4451a.

 

[lavarok]

Keith

What voltage are you seeing across the 24v system when the truck is running? I don't recall where I left my regulators, but I am seeing about 28v across my 24v side with the truck running. My voltage gauge is in the green, but about 1/8" before the white hash mark.

Also - one thing to watch is a light relay(for BO in rear box I believe). If you leave the service light switch on this relay stays activated and will cause your battery to drain. Always turn the service light switch off when the truck is not in use.

 

[Keith_J]

Keith

What voltage are you seeing across the 24v system when the truck is running? I don't recall where I left my regulators, but I am seeing about 28v across my 24v side with the truck running. My voltage gauge is in the green, but about 1/8" before the white hash mark.

Also - one thing to watch is a light relay(for BO in rear box I believe). If you leave the service light switch on this relay stays activated and will cause your battery to drain. Always turn the service light switch off when the truck is not in use.

My DVM is not working too well so I borrowed an old analog meter. It is 28.5+ over both which is confirms the mid-white hash in the green. Now because the silicon controlled rectifier (the electronic "switch) in the Duvac induces some switching harmonics, some digital voltmeters will pick up these peaks in the voltage. An analog is more immune to these.

I do want to take a good look at all of the connections at the alternators and grounds, possibly using some sort of corrosion protection compound (contact grease?). The little lug on the alternator regulator is highly problematic since the contact is through the threads. At the bare minimum, it should be nickel plated for corrosion resistance since the oxide of nickel is conductive. The thin zinc plating has gone, being replaced by rust. And that was the cause of the problem.

 

[lavarok]

Well, my analog meter confirms the output is 28.5v so my in dash gauge may be weak.

 

[Keith_J]

Well, my analog meter confirms the output is 28.5v so my in dash gauge may be weak.

There is a relay for the dash-mounted voltmeter. Check the troubleshooting in the -20 for voltage issues. Page 2-61.

 

[mkcoen]

Two more months down and charging issues still not resolved. I broke down and bought a SureFire 80amp battery equalizer but have not gotten confirmed shipping yet so concerned it's going to be a while before it arrives. If that doesn't fix the charging issues I'm just going to pull the trigger and go with with twin 12volt alts. Not really sure how to mount them and retain the a/c compressor but I'll give it a shot.

In all liklihood the VA Hospital Road Trip is off. I'm not taking a chance of sitting out in the Mojave in June without a running vehicle.

 

[lavarok]

Did you order some breakers as well? If not, see the attached installation guide for sizing.

The Sure Power will most definitely solve your problem. The hardest part will be running the 4 AWG wire inside the engine compartment. My install used 2 AWG. Good luck.

 

[mkcoen]

Got the batt equalizer yesterday. Didn't realize it was going to be quite as heavy as it is! Being the "fly by the seat" type person I didn't order the circuit breakers thinking I could just get them locally. I can (at $50/per) but haven't picked them up yet. ASE doesn't have any 100amp c.b.s listed on their site. Ian were you able to get your's through them or an alternate source?

It's probably going to be a week or so before I try anything. I'm going to head up to Austin to see if a friend can assist with the install as I don't really trust my electrical abilities to get it right the first time.