Synthetic oil

[shannondeese]

I finally got around to changing my oil today. I went with 30 wt synthetic oil. Now I can hear alot more noises from my eng. Nothing really loud just alot more taps and stuff. The pressure sits at 30 when warm and about 60 when cold. It is at the right level. Is this normal when switching to synthetic? Thanks.

 

[63sierra10]

Synthetics don't have the additives that regular oils have that create a sort of cushion for the parts. It is a lot more slick than standard oil also. I don't know if it is going to hurt anything but it definately should cut down on the friction.

 

[v8turbo]

Article from Suite 101.​

Synthetic Oil vs. Conventional Motor Oil​

What are the Advantages of Using Synthetic Engine Oils? ​

Aug 3, 2009 James Clausen ​

Synthetic motor oil can cost up to three times more than regular conventional motor oil. Is the added expense of using synthetic oil an added value or a waste of money?

Dealerships, auto repair shops and fast lube facilities will often recommend using a synthetic oil when a vehicle is brought in for an oil change or routine vehicle maintenance. Naturally synthetic motor oil is much more expensive than conventional oil, so before making a decision, find out the differences between synthetic and conventional motor oil and what it mean to a cars engine.
What is Conventional Motor Oil?​

Conventional or regular motor is processed from crude oil out of the ground. The crude oil is separated at the oil refinery. The thicker oil is used for applications like roofing tar and asphalt. The thinner oil is used for applications like gasoline and engine oil, among other applications.
This oil becomes the base stock for the oil. Engine oil base stock refined from crude oil contains small amounts of natural contaminants that can’t be removed from the base stock used in processing engine oil.
What is Synthetic Motor Oil?​

There are two components to synthetic motor oil:

1. Base Stock - Unlike conventional motor oil, synthetic motor oils base stock is artificially created or synthesized. Because of the higher purity of synthetic oil, the properties of synthetic motor oil can stand up to heat much better before breaking down than conventional motor oil. Synthetic motor oil can also withstand colder temperatures better than conventional motor oils. This a huge benefit when an engine is first started in cold weather.
2. Performance Additives - Beside the base stock, performance additives are added to both conventional and synthetic motor oils. According to Castrol, the performance additives used in synthetic motor oils are engineered with special additives that help to fight off sludge and mineral deposits that are naturally caused in combustion. Performance additives in synthetic motor oil provide superior protection in extreme driving conditions like extremely cold or hot temperatures.

Pros and Cons of Using Synthetic Motor Oil

Pros ​

• Synthetic motor will increase the life of an engine
• Longer oil change intervals, because of viscosity breakdown
• Better for extreme driving conditions, especially extremely cold or hot weather.

Cons

• Synthetic motor can cost up two three times more than conventional motor oil.
• Should be used in the beginning of the engines life (after 5,000 miles preferably) not if the vehicle already has a lot of miles. .
• Probably should not be used when the vehicle is brand new due to engine break in of the factory oil in many new vehicles.

Is Synthetic Oil Better Than Conventional Motor Oil?

There’s no doubt that synthetic oil is better than conventional motor oil. Since synthetic oil is made with smaller molecules and less impurities it’s just a plain better lubricant. It’s especially better for today’s modern engines that have tighter tolerances and smaller oil passages that need a super lubricant. Car manufacturers are requiring that synthetic oil be used more and more. Most new vehicles are at least required to use a synthetic blend.
If synthetic oil is used, it’s advisable to use it after the engine break-in period. If the vehicle has a lot of miles, it’s not recommended that synthetic oil be used. If someone plans on keeping a vehicle for a long time, using synthetic oil is a good idea. On the other hand, if someone gets a new vehicle every year, why have the added expense of synthetic oil.​

 

[Capt.Marion]

Depends on what type of "synthetic" motor oil it is. If it's stuff like Amsoil (the original synthetic motor oil) and such, then it's "true" synthetic, while the quart-bottle-stuff that you see at Advance or Auto Zone or whatever that's name-brand (Valvoline, Pennzoil, etc) that is supposedly "synthetic" is mostly petroleum based and not the same grade as Amsoil or some of the racing and aviation oils.

 

[shannondeese]

It's MIL-PRF-23699F type C/1 full synthetic. work got busted by base HAZMAT hording it and it had to go. I got the nod to get rid of it all. So I brought it home along with about 45 gallons of synthetic transmision fluid too.

 

[jasonjc]

NO NO NO Get that out now!! 23699 is for jet engines NOT deisel engines.

 

[shannondeese]

Rogo. I put it in on the advice of one of the guys I work with who's been running it in his power stroke for a few years. I'll dump it tonight and put in rotella.

 

[Tanner]

The old adage about 'not using Synthetic oils in new engines before breaking them in' got thrown out years ago.

For years now, MANY new performance cars coming off the assembly lines have used synthetic oil in their crankcases from the first turn of the key when they roll off the assembly lines under their own power...

'Tanner'

 

[stumps]

It's MIL-PRF-23699F type C/1 full synthetic. work got busted by base HAZMAT hording it and it had to go. I got the nod to get rid of it all. So I brought it home along with about 45 gallons of synthetic transmision fluid too.

That stuff is too thin for a diesel. Its viscosity is 5cST at 212F, which makes it an SAE 10 oil. Way too thin when the engine warms up.

On the bright side, it probably did about as good a job as kerosene would of cleaning out the sludge in your engine.

Dump it and put some 15W40 in its place.

-Chuck

 

[67X]

I just put Shell Rotella T6 5w-40 in my truck works great. Wasnt cheap 19.50 a gal at Wal-Mart. (best price i could find) If your gonna go with syntheic make sure it full syn not the blend crap..that stuffs a rip-off notice they dont tell you what percentage of the oil is synthetic.

-Adam

 

[Wolf.Dose]

For your "REO" you should use a 15W40 engine oil, non syntetic, API class CD or better (MIL L-2105-B or better). The problem is not so much the oil, the problem is based in the oil seals of the engines. The "old" engine seals are NOT designed for the syntetic oil, they will leak a lot. The seal problem is not only of the radial seals, also the paper or cork seals. The engine will be an oil well!.
And with regard to enviromental protection we should care for not beeing oil wells. The "old stuff" beside that you will never get completely dry, so there is no reason to make them more leaky.
Classically the Army requires a W30 oil for summer and a W10 oil for winter below 5 °C (or something like 40 °F). But these oils are usually not available any more. So 15W40 is the best compromise.
Wolf

 

[stumps]

Synthetic oil is just oil in a more pure form. Rather than being a soup of all sorts of different oil like substances (like natural dino oil), it is all the same oil like substance. It shouldn't affect the seals one way or another. The problem with leaky seals on some vehicles is caused because synthetic oils are often thinner, which will make for more leakage from a given leak than will a thicker oil.

-Chuck

 

[Stalwart]

I'm with Chuck. When you use dino oil it is a oil with an AVERAGE molecule size, some larger and some smaller. Synthetics have just one size and hence they are less likely to break down as quickly. Only the additive package can be made to harm seals or not, the oil itself acts the same and if anything, synthetics have a smaller additive package.

 

[jasonjc]

Keep in mind all, He is NOT asking about synthetic Deisel eng oil. He is asking about using a synthetic JET eng oil in a Deisel eng.

 

[shannondeese]

I haven't gotten around to changing the oil yet. But I will before I drive it again. My buddy has been using it in his F350 PSD For three years now. I understand that the Deuce is a bit different than your new trucks. On those grounds and on the fact that I want my Deuce to live a long and healthy life in my stable I will be changing back to Rotella T 15W40 Dino oil. Thanks for the info.

 

[halftrack]

Awesome thread. I have been debating using synthetic oil in my 6cta8.3. I am now just going to stick with the rotella 15w40

 

[Skip]

Gas engine oil

I use rotella as a break in oil on every gas engine I rebuild. then I use synthetic. The rotella has additives that normal gas engine oil dose not have any more. This info came from the machinist that dose my block work.

 

[stumps]

Most of the additional additives in Rotella are to neutralize the acid that forms in the oil when diesel combustion products get by the rings.

-Chuck

 

[shannondeese]

I drained the oil tonight and put in Rotella 15W40. Sounds normal again all the little noises I heard are gone. Glad I didn't drive on the other oil. Although with changing the oil filters twice in three days my wife is looking at me like I've got a third eyeball. It should be really clean for a little while now though.

 

[bassetdeuce]

The primary advantage of synthetic oil IMO is the higher flash point of synthetic gives you more turbo bearing protection (less coking) from a hot shutdown. I'd rather give it a few minutes of idle.