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doing a new hard top

Big CASE

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Finger.TN
Just putting up some Pictures of me doing a Cab top on a 1968 Kiaser Jeep hard topper . if you are going to do this your self , you well need to take out the 12 bolts and 2 pins that hold it in place . there are 12 bolts in the back of the cab you have to remove and there are 2 pins ,1 on the left and 1 on the right of the cab front outsides corners . after you have the bolts and pins out GO get a FRIEND to help you lift it off !!! the top ways about 50 lbs and it is a pane to move . do to the side of it . it should take about 2 Hours to do in all . off and a new 1 on .
Pictures of me doing it
 

dabtl

Active member
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Denton, Texas
It appears to have been stepped on a bit. To take the dents out, I used a 4 ton ram from Northern Tool. I think I paid $104 for it. They are now about $115. Great tool for the job.
 

Skycop

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New Braunfels, Texas
The "pins" that you mention in this post....are the on the outside of the hard top or under the front "brow" where it fastens to the window? About how long are they? Our hard top that came off of our -A2 had bolts drilled through the window frame (both top and bottom of the frame) to hold down the top. Just trying to get some photos and/or dimensions of the drop pins and washers to hold the front down.
 

Skycop

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New Braunfels, Texas
I am having some issues getting the front part of the hard top to settle down correctly on the window frame to where it is square. I think I know why the old -A2 had the bolts drilled all of the way through the frame, but I would like to avoid doing that if at all possible. This is why I am soliciting photos if at all possible as I don't think the drop down pins would hold the front of the cab down to the point I need it to be to fit right.

I also noticed on the hard top there were two holes on the outside of the top at the front. They look consistent with the location of the snap installation of the soft top, but again, that wouldn't make any sense. There is no way in **** I would be able to get the hole in the hard top lined up with the hole in the window frame (where the snap went). Any help would be appreciated. I am just checking to see if anyone else had any of these issues. Finally, there is a rubber gasket under the front lip of the hard top (where the hard top rests on top of the window frame). Part of me is thinking this is not OEM and is where my problem(s) are coming from. Photo is attached of the two holes I have mentioned.
 

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art

Active member
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28
28
Location
Northern N.J.
It took some work, but I took out the snap and alined the two holes.

I used sheet metal screws :???: can you reuse the snaps instead?
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Cincy Ohio
Skycop, he could have been posting that for anyone in this thread, don't get so upset. What you described with the 2 bolts through the top and the windshield frame is the stock/correct way it is done.
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Camp Wood/LC, TX
The gasket is correct. You will have to get several NBPD officers to sit on the leading edge of the top and it should pop down onto the windshield frame. Most hard top applications have thru bolts not pins that hold down the top to the windshield.
 

Skycop

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Thanks for the advice, I will drill out the window frame on the bottom and make it happen. If you look at the photo, you will see that I have about 1/2" to play with on the drive'rs side window frame before it gets to be where it needs to. However, to get the two holes to line up, looks like I would need 3/4-1" of movement for the soft top snap hole (for lack of better term). :confused:

By the way, the door is ALOT heavier than expected! Got it done though....now where's that smiley....
 
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Equiland

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Location
Houston, Texas
Hard Top

Hey SkyCop

I just put a hard top on one of my Deuces. I drilled through the window frame as instructed. There are two small holes that are in the correct place, you just have to drill them out. I used the rubber gasket that came with the kit so that there would be a seal at the top of the windshield. Then I snugged the bolts down (I don't think that pins alone would even come close to holding the top in place).
I spent some time looking at the snap holes that you are concerned about. Mine do not line up either. Solution: don't worry about it. The small screws that go there are not big enough to make any difference. If the top settles after the rubber gasket has been in place for awhile, I'll simply snug the bolts down some more. Get in your go-fast sky truck and come look at it.

Equiland.
 

Skycop

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New Braunfels, Texas
Well the airplane is done. Hard top front section is bolted down and with the bolts, it compressed the rubber gasket at the top of the window and made everything line up just fine. We are going to work on installing the series of bolts on the back side of the cab this weekend. Still having trouble with the starter. We tried all of the small fixes, but it is coming out today I think.
 

Equiland

New member
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Location
Houston, Texas
Thanks for the email. I'm pleased to hear that you have the airplane back on line.

Do you have a place that can overhaul a deuce starter?

If the ring gear on the flywheel turns out to be the problem, I have an extra flywheel.

How did your cover repair turn out?

I almost have the stuff in my shop moved around to the point that I can paint the floor. When the floor is painted, then I can move one of my deuces in to change the exhaust system and add power steering. The second deuce will receive a new engine, new exhaust, hard top and power steering.

Jim
 
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