rubber electrical connectors

[Westex]

I'm going to wire in some 24volt service lights off of a wrecker to my Deuce, and I ordered the female 12 guage rubber connectors from Saturn Surplus. They arrived today and have the connectors, the rubber boot, and a little brass washer. Anybody know where the washer is supposed to go? Looks to big in diameter to just ram down into the boot?

 

[gunboy1656]

Right behind the connector, inside the boot. Helps keep the boot on.

 

[Speddmon]

 

[MWMULES]

They have an article and picture of the assy M-SERIES VEHICLES WIRING CONNECTORS

 

[Westex]

Thanks guys, I think I'll figure it out from this.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Jay at Saturn Surplus is a great Guy to deal with, and I purchase from him quite often. Erik's Military and Industrial Surplus is another vendor for Mil-Spec wire connectors. Erik is also always a pleasure to deal with.
Erik's Military and Industrial Surplus - Military Vehicle Parts, Industrial and Military Surplus Electronics

 

[cranetruck]

Part numbers and assembly instructions here:
Steel Soldiers :: Military Vehicles Supersite

 

[emmado22]

Who sells the special crimpers for the terminals?

 

[clinto]

Who sells the special crimpers for the terminals?

The best deal you will find is on eBarf. I searched weekly for 6 months and finally caught a near new one on the cheap.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/9878-right-crimping-tool.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/electrical/27248-electrical-connector-parts-crimpers.html

 

[4x4 Forever]

Which is better: Crimp and solder or crimp and no-solder?

 

[emmado22]

Crimp and solder.

Whats the deal with the turret heads? Can you get by with just the basic AF-8 and no turret for Packard/Douglas MV type connectors?

 

[cranetruck]

The only problem with soldering is the wicking of solder up the wire, which stiffens it and makes it less vibration proof...the wire may break under those conditions.
Using the correct crimping tool will do the job alone. The original equipment is crimped only.

 

[clinto]

Whats the deal with the turret heads? Can you get by with just the basic AF-8 and no turret for Packard/Douglas MV type connectors?

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/187322-post10.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/187328-post12.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/407068-post21.html

 

[steelandcanvas]

The only problem with soldering is the wicking of solder up the wire, which stiffens it and makes it less vibration proof...the wire may break under those conditions.
Using the correct crimping tool will do the job alone. The original equipment is crimped only.

Very good point Bjorn.

 

[Dodge man]

The only problem with soldering is the wicking of solder up the wire, which stiffens it and makes it less vibration proof...the wire may break under those conditions.
Using the correct crimping tool will do the job alone. The original equipment is crimped only.

Per USAF Basic Electronics School, Kessler AFB, Ms; You're supposed to use a little spring loaded clip to clamp the wire next to the insulation. It stops the solder from wicking up inside the insulation and making the wire subject to breaking. The clip looks about like an alligator clip but the blades are perperdicular to the wire and have a small notch in them for the wire to go through. I expect that you can make one from a flattened out alligator clip. Notch size isn't critical but you may need several if you work on very small or very large wire. Ours were made of aluminium to keep solder from sticking to them but the cheap steel alligator clips should work fine for that.

 

[cranetruck]

Reads like a heat sink, should be aluminum for heat conductivity and used for small parts like diodes, small transistors etc.
Probably wouldn't be effective it the insulation is butted up against the terminal.
In any case, a crimping tool used correctly will do the job, wire strands aligned right, right amount of insulation removed, right pressure and so on.
If a solder paste is used, there may be corrosive issues also...

 

[Carl_in_NH]

Since this crimped connection is inside the weather-tight rubber boot, there should be no need for solder in the connection - provided it is crimped correctly, making the connection between the wire and the connector barrel 'gas tight'.

If, for instance, you were using exposed civi type lugs or butt connectors that are in the weather, then I've always used a crimp to hold things together while applying the correct amount of solder to the joint. I've not had issues with too much wicking up the wire and making it break later on - but YMMV. Applying too much solder is the common fault to avoid.

 

[mistaken1]

...or use an anti-oxidant compound in the civilian crimp terminals/splices.

 

[papakb]

There are a couple of companies that make crimp tools for the military bullet connectors. I think that Daniels manufacturing makes one of the best but they're pretty pricey new. The best place to find them is either at electronic surplus stores or eBay. They make a nice 4 point crimp that just doesn't let go.


Soldering is not the way to attach these vehicle connectors. Soldering has 2 disadvantages in military vehicles. First off, the wire doesn't solder well because it's not pure copper like most electrical wiring. Secondly, soldering makes a rigid connection and any motion or vibration will eventually cause the wired to break at the solder connection.

When I assemble them I like to use a lubricant made by Dow Corning called DC-4. It's available from McMaster-Carr and has to great properties. First it's a lubricant that makes assembly easier and it also keeps the rubber soft and pliable. I've also used it to soften older hardened connectors to get them apart.


Years ago I bought connectors from a company in Illinois. That company is now in Rio Rico, Az. Here's their website link: http://www.gillman.com/


Here are the contact part numbers:

male MS27142-2

female MS27144-1


I didn't buy any shells from them but they should have them available too.


Kurt Lesser
MVCC President