mep-o16 hookup question

[dependable]

I recently got a mep 016 3 kw genset. Am slightly confused how to hook to board or transfer switch for nominal 240v 1 phase use (just to keep freezer going and fire oil heater). Do I hook L1 & l2 as hot leads, l0 as neutral and ground to ground. ? This would correspond to the way the hookup is for my gas civy generator. I have read conflicting accounts as to weather this will work. Also voltage and current selector switch positions. Found and downloaded a repair manual, have not found complete operators manual, but read somewhere they had a lot of mistakes anyway. Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Boatcarpenter]

dependable,
Click the Resources section at the top of the page. Open the Technical Manuals link, go to the 5th page of TM's and find TM 5-6115-271-14. It is the Operators manual for the genset. Hopefully it will answer your questions.
BC

 

[dependable]

Thanks for that, but I have a mep-016b , actually a mep701a which is the same except for sound insulating box. My omission, sorry for that. The control pannel on the old gas units seem to have a 3 position voltage control, while this unit has 6. Also manual makes no mention of how to wire to domestic current. I need 240 to run my 240v 3/4 hp well pump, with other circuits off. in case of prolonged power outage. I have some understanding of domestic wiring (wired my house and passed inspection) and generator to voltage load requirements. not so good on theory or how this military rig, which has a lot of configuration options, can be set up best for my uses. I realize this is low amps, but seems to be constructed for continuous duty, which my other generator is not. If this 3 kw, 6 lead generator is useless for home use, I guess I should know that to.

 

[Carl_in_NH]

I haven't looked at the 016b manual, but what you're looking for is a '240V, single phase, three wire' connection. See if your documentation mentions that as one of the modes of hte reconnection switch that configures your output. That would emulate standard 240V from the power company for connection to your panel.

 

[Isaac-1]

I also have a MEP-016b/701a there is no household 120/240 sinlge phase connection on these sets, there is single phase is 120V only, 240V only, there is a 3 phase 120/208 mode that may work for what you need if your 230 volt load is really 208-230, then there is a strange 120V only 3 phase mode. All is not lost though there is a simple hack that can be done by adding a single jumper wire to get 120/240 single phase, however this hack makes it so the voltage selector switch under the panel no longer work (if you try to change it you will fry things). There is a message thread over on the smok stak site in the generator section on this topic that was just revived last week talking about doing this on a MEP-016C MEP-016c issues - Military MEP and Aircraft Gen-Sets I suspect it is very similar for our 701a's but have not tried it.

Ike

p.s. there are mistakes in the tech manual including the voltages in the connection diagrams
being mislabeled


p.p.s. pdf manuals can be found at http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/OtherGenerators/

 

[jas67]

MEP-016B/016E/701A Reconnect switch

Ike,

I just double checked. With the reconnect switch on "240V 1 phase", I definitely get split-phase 120/240V. I connected a 1000W flood light to the convenience outlet (most convenient load I had), and measured 120V from L1-L0, 120V from L2-L0, and 240V from L2-L1. The light operated normally, and with the current meter switch set to I1, showed 50% load.

You might want to check your 701a to see if it works the same. These B/E models are definitely very different from the A/C/D models referenced in the thread about using these with 240/120 household wiring.

Regards,
Jay

 

[Isaac-1]

Have you checked the connection terminals?

Ike

p.s. On mine the onboard outlet is wired up with only a single hot leg going to it, without the hot side jumper cut, (only 1 fuse connected, both other holders disconnected) not like the description in the tech manual. The wiring for this looks professional, not some hack job. How is yours?

 

[skidunits4you]

set the unit to 240 single phase you should get 240 volts between L1 and L2 and 120 volts between L0 and L1 or L0 and L2 ( L0 is nuetral L1 hot L2 hot unit should have a ground lug on the side of the frame)

 

[jas67]

Have you checked the connection terminals?

Ike

p.s. On mine the onboard outlet is wired up with only a single hot leg going to it, without the hot side jumper cut, (only 1 fuse connected, both other holders disconnected) not like the description in the tech manual. The wiring for this looks professional, not some hack job. How is yours?

Mine is the same as you describe.

If by the connection terminals, you mean the L0,L1,L2,L3 posts on the outside of the unit, yes, I did. I got 240V L2-L1, 120V L1-L0, and 120V L2-L0. I didn't place a load on the terminals, but their voltage staid stable when I placed the load on the convenience outlet. Since any load on the convenience outlet appears on the current gauge on the I1 setting for any position of the reconnect, I'd say it is hardwired to L1.

I'll try to get a 240V load and a 120V load on it at the same time when I get a chance to get it out again. I need 240/120V, as I have a 240V well pump, and, of coarse, need 120V for the refridgerator, freezer, and furnace motors. Also, I have a 240/120V generator connection with main breaker interlock already installed on my house that I've used with my 4KW Yanmar clone (240/120 single phase).

I would think that the 016E would have excellent surge power capability, considering that it is a 10HP engine, and that typically a 3KW genset would have a 6HP engine (the 016D has a 7HP engine).

 

[skidunits4you]

As long as it is putting out 240 single phase you should be all set your house breaker panel picks it 120 off one leg or the other to even out the load on both sides of Gen. hope posts helped Good Luck

 

[Isaac-1]

Skidunits4U, this topic started out because the MEP-016A/016C have no neutral brought out in the 240V mode, and the manual for the 016B is lacking information (wrong information too, the reconnection diagram is labelled wrong) and only labels the connection 240V (which may have a 120V neutral brought out, at least on the modified repowered E version), there is a jumper hack to fix this on the 016A/C . In addition we now have both an a 016B (mine, well 701a) and Jay's 016E where the onboard outlet is not wired up as specified in the tech manual, mine however does not show amp loads.

As to surge capability I have read 400% for a fairly long time, either 30 seconds or 1 minute I don't remember which, it is in one of the tech manuals.

 

[skidunits4you]

From a post at smokestak : the following mod is easier;

Set the switch to 240 single phase. L1 and L2 are your two hot lines. Install a jumper from S1-5 to S1-6. L0 will now be neutral. Don't use any other switch

 

[timntrucks]

sounds easy enought thanks

 

[skidunits4you]

SmokStak > SmokStak® Vintage Electrical Equipment > Generators & Motors General Discussion > Military MEP and Aircraft Gen-Sets go to this website and you will find others doing the same thing with these units alot of good people here to help you out. I post in both places to help when I can I mantain 14 Mil gens for my town as well as a few for my self from 3kw to 275 KW. feel free to pm me if you need more help

 

[jas67]

SmokStak > SmokStak® Vintage Electrical Equipment > Generators & Motors General Discussion > Military MEP and Aircraft Gen-Sets go to this website and you will find others doing the same thing with these units alot of good people here to help you out. I post in both places to help when I can I mantain 14 Mil gens for my town as well as a few for my self from 3kw to 275 KW. feel free to pm me if you need more help

Please note, that in the original thread in the SmokStak referenced earlier:
MEP-016c issues - Military MEP and Aircraft Gen-Sets

The original poster has an MEP-016C. The 'C' model is very similar to the 'A' model, and there is also an MEP-016D, which is the 'C' or 'A' model, repowered with a Yanmar L70AE diesel engine.

HOWEVER -- as pointed out by Isaac-1, and others in this and other threads, the MEP-016B is a somewhat different beast, with a different frame, control box, generator end, etc.

The MEP-016B is powered an an Onan Q106 engine, and the MEP-016E, similar to the MEP-016B, but is powered by a Yanmar L100AE engine. Another variant (and IMHO, the most desireable one) is the MEP-701a, which is the MEP-016B with ASK installed (acoustic suppression kit).

The A,C, and D models look like this the first three pictures attached to this post (D model shown, A & C models have the 4-cyl 4A032 engine). The MEP-016B is shown in the other 5. The MEP-016E looks like the MEP-016B.

I have not compared the schematics for the two, but if you have an A,C, or D model, you should probably be following the TM for the A and C model (and be aware the changes were probably made to the D model):
http://www.tpub.com/content/gasolinepowergenerators/TM-5-6115-271-14/

If you have a B or E model, then the TM for the B model is the one to use (again, changes were likely made to the 'E' model):
http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/OtherGenerators/MEP-016B/

I would study schematics in both TM's above before making the nuetral mod to a 'B' or 'E' model, as the connection names are likely not the same.

My MEP-016E has a nuetral connection in the 240V mode (and thus provides 240/120V split phase). Isaac's MEP-016B does not. Neither of our units have convenience outlet wired as shown in the TM. So, the existence of the neutral connection may vary too. You should verify your particular unit.

If you do this mod, or find that your unit already provides a neutral in 240V 1 phase mode, please post your findings, along with model #, and other info such as production date. This might be valuable information for other members with these gensets.

 

[glenn]

Hi. Struggling with mine as well. It is the 016A converted to the Yanmar engine. I can not get a neutral on 240 1 Phase. I can get the 240v, but nothing gives me a neutral, though it sometimes will flicker a meter if touched lightly but with a solid connection it goes dead.