Rear main seal replaced - leaking BAD!

[Jakob]

I replaced the rear main seal on my truck a while back. I finally got the truck running again and it's puking oil all over the place. I let it idle for about 5 minutes or so on the initial start up (2 days ago) and it was fine. It dripped a small puddle after I shut it down. Then today, I ran some scrap steel to the recycler and sometime during the trip, it started leaking. While it was sitting on the scale, idling, going to get my cash is when I noticed it. Almost a steady stream coming out. Any idea what happened and am I going to have to drop the trans again? Is the seal just loose from sitting dry for a while?

 

[FMJ]

Been there, done that. . . . got oil on my t-shirt . . .

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/33124-rear-main-flange-size-speedi-sleeve-2.html

I also had a seal spin in the housing that bolts on the back of the block.

 

[Jakob]

I had to speedi-sleeve my crank. Could that be the cause of my problems?

 

[FMJ]

The problem I had with mine was the seal spun in the seal housing that bolts to the back of the block. The only way to know is to drop the tranny, flywheel, etc. . .

I know it's a PITA, but to fix it, it's what you need to do.

Ed

 

[gimpyrobb]

Are you sure its motor oil? Lots of guys have had problems with the trans puking gear oil out of the front. It will leak out of the bell and look like motor oil, till you smell it. How full is the trans?

 

[FMJ]

Mine did the same thing, after a long run, oil (motor) would pour out of the bell housing in steady stream for a couple of minutes.

Did you use the thread lock on the sleeve when you installed it?

 

[Jakob]

I'm sure it's engine oil, it's black and doesn't smell like gear oil. The transmission has 4 quarts in it, I filled it up per some recommendations here, about a knuckle below the fill plug. It's streaming out all the time, not only after shutdown. I used some steel putty to smooth up the crank then locker on it before installing the sleeve. I followed the directions in the package. I guess I'm going to have to drop everything again.

 

[FMJ]

Sorry to hear, but if its any consolation, I had mine out 3 times before I fixed it, then 6 months later it threw a rod out the side of the block. . .

 

[Jakob]

Sorry to hear, but if its any consolation, I had mine out 3 times before I fixed it, then 6 months later it threw a rod out the side of the block. . .

I'm hoping I can skip one of the trans drops and the rod out of the block, lol. On a good note, when I do drop the trans again, it'll much easier this time. The first time was rough, I won't make those mistakes again. I had the trans loose fitted about 3 times before I was ready to finally button it up.

 

[pjpiche1]

I'm sure it's engine oil, it's black and doesn't smell like gear oil. The transmission has 4 quarts in it, I filled it up per some recommendations here, about a knuckle below the fill plug. It's streaming out all the time, not only after shutdown. I used some steel putty to smooth up the crank then locker on it before installing the sleeve. I followed the directions in the package. I guess I'm going to have to drop everything again.

My guess would be...the use of the putty is the cause of the failure. Use fine emory cloth to polish the crank.

 

[Jakob]

My guess would be...the use of the putty is the cause of the failure. Use fine emory cloth to polish the crank.

I'm going to remove the sleeve and stuff under it. I'll polish the crank like you're suggesting. As long as I can get a smooth surface that is.

 

[G-Force]

Just take the speedy sleeve off and clean off the epoxy you put on. Then put a new sleeve on with lock tite. Don't worry about it being smooth. thats what thesleeve is supposed to do. And I'd install a new seal also.

 

[ENCS_DEI]

Check your crankcase vent and breather tube are not clogged.

V/r Russ

 

[Jakob]

Silly question, but it'll save me a little trouble... where's that at?

 

[ENCS_DEI]

The Vent is bolted between the valve covers and the rubber tube runs down to the front axle on the left side of the engine as viewed from the front.

V/r Russ

 

[052]

I had an oil leak after changing the rear main seal. Oil was running out just like prior to replacing the sealand dripping at the same spot. The leak turned out to be a split fitting on an oil sending unit at the passenger rear of the block.

 

[Jakob]

Mine is definitely coming from the bell housing hole. I crawled under the truck to verify. I'll be checking the breather today. I'm already making plans to pull the trans though.

 

[saddamsnightmare]

March 24th, 2010.

For you guys with rear main seal problems on your Multifuels, please permit me to politely point out that you have a main rear seal, then for want of any better word, a carrier housing seal also. If you replace the main seal only without also replacing the carrier seal, you are likely gonna get your leak back again. My deuce had the same issues, leaking motor oil out the bell housing drain, first a quart every thousand miles or so, then it got to a quart every 250, at which point I picked Will Wagners brain (hosannas to the man), who pointed out that both seals needed to be replaced if I was going into the bell housing...
I replaced both seals at the same time, and the problem never returned. My deuce is fairly high mileage in terms of its use runs about 4500-6000 miles per year, mostly road work and mostly high speed (40-54 MPH), so the self actuating anti rust system incorporated into the deuce design by the leaking rear main seal is a no-no....
Remember, the technology is 1948, the need for wads of money to be thrown at the upkeep is 2010 technology, it's why Uncle Sam retired the fleet!
Good luck on the repairs,

Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan

 

[Jakob]

If mine was only leaking a little, I wouldn't mind. It literally comes out in a steady stream on the ground up until about 20mph. That's how much is coming out right now. I'm going to check in to this "carrier housing seal" though. I can't find anything that resembles it on ODIron.

 

[saddamsnightmare]

March 24th, 2010.

JAKOB:

Forgive me, I have been poring through the deuce parts manual looking for the PN's and installation information for the Rear Main Seal and "Carrier" seal. I don't have a hard copy of the engine and engine parts manual, but I obtained the rear main seal and carrier seal from George Kivett at White Owl Parts in Kinston, NC, as he is my usual source for parts. The seals were new, fresh, not NOS and the prices were reasonable. If you call George or Terry Kivett and describe your problem and what you're looking for, they will have the items.
Contact WillWagner on the members list, he is the man who set me on the trail that both of these items should be replaced, and let me add, you WILL want to get the 6 or 8 new bolts that hold the flywheel on to the rear main crankshaft flange, as the original bolts have taken a "Set" when installed and should not be reused. When you do the work, be careful and follow Will's instructions or the Repair Manual, exactly, and the new rear main seal should seal up and not leak at all. The "carrier (my term)" housing seal acts to trap any small leakage that gets through the rear main seal, as on the deuce the rear main seal is little more then a piece of rope that serves as a gasket (1948 standard technology) and it needs to be set tight enough to stop the leak, but not tight enough to drag on the crankshaft too hard. This is where Will's knowledge and the manual information will come in. I don't know what you put on the crankshaft, but you may need to crocus cloth that off, as if it is at all rough, it may eat your main seal. The deuce is pretty low order technology, and the repair manuals and parts were designed for tolerances that would not be as acceptable in the modern world, but then the deuce is not a modern truck.
I'll keep looking for the PN information, but do contact WillWagner, he has done quite a few of these, and the repairs work like a charm.


Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan