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Has anyone built a big slide-in "truck" camper for a M35 Deuce?

I still haven't found a Deuce yet, so this may be a stupid idea because I haven't had the time to look over a M35's bed closely. I like the M109's, but they seem a lot harder to find one in good shape with a turbo and t-case for a reasonable price around here.

I was wondering if anyone had ideas about building a big slide-in truck-style camper for a M35 that would fit inside the bed rails. Do I need a camper? No. Do I need a Deuce? No. Would I like one? Absolutely - and it would be nice to design it exactly how I wanted, not to mention it would be a fun project to work on here and there when I have time.

Being able to take the camper off and use the bed of the M35 Deuce for hauling, etc., would be nice as well - I don't think a M109 would work too well for hauling mulch or gravel.

The biggest problem that I can see would be finding some jacks strong enough and with enough length to raise the slide in high enough to back the Deuce under. I would also have to find a way to secure it safely to the bed.

Stupid idea? Should I just keep holding out for a M109 Deuce?
 
Thanks for the ideas. I like the shelter idea but I'm guessing those are a bit hard to come by, and I'd also like to utilize the space over the cab of the truck either for extra storage or a bed. How are those shelters secured to the bed of the truck? I wouldn't want my camper shifting around at all when going around turns.
 

SCSG-G4

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S-280 shelters are secured with cables that attach to the big rings on the corner. they run diagonally down the sides to a special block that fits up through the side where the center bow goes down (would have gone down). Ontario Surplus has the blocks for $30-35 a pair. That and four big turnbuckles and you are in business! TexAndy has the right idea about getting it on and off!
 

orren

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Slide in camper

I bet there's a lot of you guys that would like some sort of camper that could bolt in the M35 or better yet a M36 like mine. Using four hard points and a properly located tree limb it could be lefted enough to clear truck bed.

I have been studying the Alaskan Camper design with the telescoping top half; this should help to keep the height reasonable especially in the woods and help lower wind resistence when traveling. I know these can be expensive but if we could find a knowledgable fabricator who would be willing to make us just the shell then us DIY'ers could finish it any way we want.

Please, any of you with any interest or ideas lets hear from you and if we get enough interest we could make it happen.

All the best,

Orren Winjum
 

Unforgiven

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I am doing exactly what you say next year. This year I'm doing a crew cab + axle rebuilds. Next year I'm doing a slide-in camper.

These jacks take 2500 lbs each. Four of them are more than enough for even the largest homemade camper.

Rieco Titan Electric Truck Camper Jacks

4 jacks + remote run about $2000. They have 36" lift so you would have to weld up custom mounts. I would make removable mounts. That way once the camper is in the truck you can leave the jacks at home.

I plan to use this or a similar jack system. I'll make the camper myself in either steel or aluminum (need a good excuse for a TIG welder). The only thing I plan to do unique to your idea is to make an Alaskan-type camper. I want it low-profile while in transit & pop-up when I'm at my destination ... air resistance, center of gravity and all that.
 

wreckerman893

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Hummmmm.......thinking out loud.........why not find an small, older pull behind camper.....take the axle off and set it on a frame that fit just inside of the deuce bed.

Build a frame the same highth as the deuce bed that you could slide the camper off onto.
If you put rollers on the bottom of the camper frame you could easily roll it from frame to frame.

Just my idea.:confused:
 

Jakob

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Hummmmm.......thinking out loud.........why not find an small, older pull behind camper.....take the axle off and set it on a frame that fit just inside of the deuce bed.

Build a frame the same highth as the deuce bed that you could slide the camper off onto.
If you put rollers on the bottom of the camper frame you could easily roll it from frame to frame.

Just my idea.:confused:
That was the same thought I was having. I'm sure you could find a good sized camper, make a frame for the bottom with some wheels on it. Make sure the door/s clear the bed sides and strap it in really good.
 

tamangel

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I have been studying the Alaskan Camper design with the telescoping top half; this should help to keep the height reasonable especially in the woods and help lower wind resistence when traveling. I know these can be expensive but if we could find a knowledgable fabricator who would be willing to make us just the shell then us DIY'ers could finish it any way we want.
Orren, for ideas might check UNICAT brand expedition-type motorhomes.. Alot of their rigs have raise tops like the Alaskan.. crazy prices for the unicats..

Mike

some pics showing interior and top up/down..

UNICAT® - INDIVIDUAL
 

tamangel

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DFO, meant just to check UNICAT pics and engineering for ideas.. alos, seems there was a thread quite a while back on somebody selling a rig like this (M35/Raised roof camper) on ebay with an ensuing discussion here but I can't find the post.. he had moaned about the 'stinky diesel' and converted it to a chevy V8 as I recall..

Mike
 
Sorry Mike, my reply was meant to be for "wreckerman893"'s post. I will check out the site you linked.

I found a picture of some of the M35's cargo bed dimension, and I've attached it to this post. I drew two arrows towards some pieces on the rear of the bed - I'm not sure what they are. Would these pieces prevent something 88" wide from sliding straight into the bed? Would I have to raise it up over these lips, or are they not actually raised lips at all.

Thanks,

Dennis
 

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PackRatWrecker

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Height may play in, but what about a van body, from a 1-ton delivery truck? I say 1-ton, because I see very few 2-ton trucks under 16-18'.

I've got an 18' van body, that I was planning to put on an rv frame. I'm thinking now about something like you are considereing, where I can load it onto an 18' car trailer. That way I have a trailer to use, when the box is dismounted.

Lift jack stroke isn't really a big deal, if you have 2 drop posts on each corner. One for a jack & one for a stand. Crank the jack up, to raise it off your truck, move the truck out, then crank it down to the next lowest pin hole in the stand. Then raise the jack post to the next pin hole, and repeat, one each corner, until it is on the ground. I suspect that 2k jacks would suffice, as most rv trailers up to 26-28' are rated about 8k. Therefore, 4 pieces of heavy wall 2" square tubing should support it adequetly. Once it's on the ground, it's self-supporting. Not to mention, that you can onload it on-site, and still have the truck to drive.

Bacisally, what I'm suggesting, is a 4 post variation, of the old pickup slide-in camper jacks, but with smaller, less exspensive, easier to stow jacks.

I'm sure it sounds a little labor intensive, but it seems to be more realistic, than dragging around a heavy forklift, or a trailer load of pallets & jacks.
 

tie6044

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Does this look too redneck? I just use this deuce to put my camper on when it's not on my gooseneck so it's not sitting on the jacks for a long time. Works great, looks funny.
 

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