autolite glow plugs

[beanman1]

i just replaced all the glow plugs with the cheap autolite glow plugs (all i could afford) and i have the push button system on my 1009 i was wondering what the recomended glow time would be i dont want to burn this set up cant afford to replace them agian

 

[doghead]

What happened the last time, that caused them to burn out?

 

[beanman1]

i think the resitor went out and burned the controller card up and also burned the plugs up i bypassed the resistors with the 12v conversion and installed the push button for the relay went out this morning to move the 1009 so i could let my wife go to work and the 1009 started right up

 

[Ken_86gt]

The time would likely be less when warm out....I would start at 5 seconds. I don't know how long it will take to burn the new ones out.

 

[doghead]

excellent info. I would say 8 seconds or less, and see how well it starts.

 

[jakwi]

Hey beanman, I wired up a light that is connected to the glowplug side of the relay so that I could see how long they are actually on for. It turns out they are on for 10 to 15 seconds after engine start , add that to what ever time the wait light is on before engine start.

So 4 seconds is definately safe. They could probably run 30 seconds safely. Now granted I'm in colorado and it is still in the 20's at night, but that should give you an idea what the stock controller card is doing. I do tend to burn out about 2 ac60g's per month so I'm going to wire up a switch to disable the gp card immediately after the engine starts.

BTW could you post a picture of your 1009. I was looking at your profile picture and it looks pretty sharp, but I'd like to see a picture bigger than a thumbnail. I've been toying with the idea of painting mine dark blue.

thanks

 

[CUCV85]

i think the resistor went out and burned the controller card up and also burned the plugs up i bypassed the resistors with the 12v conversion and installed the push button for the relay went out this morning to move the 1009 so i could let my wife go to work and the 1009 started right up

40 degrees 8 count one one thousand
30 degrees 10-15
20 12-15
teens 15 and cycle, shut off after 15 and start over again
you will learn according to the temperature. Heck I have mine in a building so that's different!
I did the resistors bypass after I lost a set of plugs I had in it for 2 years.
You see I put a brand new set in after those went and they lasted 2 day
(3 starts) I found a brand new card for 90.00 from a Chevy dealer. At the time it seemed the thing to do because it was available. I did by a 2 wire with Grey Lu-me (2 wires in a Grey plastic cover) from Napa. I also got from Napa a 3 dollar red button momentary switch. I have it neatly together in the glove box. I have the hole in the firewall and in my dash under steering wheel.
I am ready if it burns up again! Hopefully the new card will out last the truck. If your truck does not fire up after cranking say 3 seconds after holding your glow plugs for say 6 seconds at 35 degree weather just stop cranking and cycle them again this time for say 8 seconds should take off. I plug in my engine block heater at 32 degrees (freezing) my rule of thumb. I have a timer and set it for 2 hours prior to using the truck, bought that at walmart $5.00
I along with many have added the engine block heater. Knock the second back freeze plug out (well in) on the drivers side. Use a good long handled needle nose to grab hold of the lip and use a say 12 inch pry bar and gently pry against the side of the pliers and that's it. Install the block heater at 12 or 6 O'Clock. Put a little cooking oil on the rubber seal ring before pushing it in. The Engine Block Heater I got at Napa BK 605-3180 $31.00 said a non petroleum lubricant for whatever reason.

 

[Stretch44875]

Don't know if they are the same, but the autolite's for the ford 6.9 will burn up at 10 sec. I read a review my dad printed off for his truck, the the autolite plugs were the worst ones, they would burn up fast and distort, making them hard to remove. He bought some from michgian that were supposed to be impossible to burn up, they had some kind of current limiting built in.

 

[doghead]

Honestly, Autolites would be one of my last choices. But thats what he bought.

 

[cleb]

The AC60G's are the only way to go. I put 13's (IIRC) in my M1009, I glowed it too long, one fried, I was still using the resistor, so the voltage to the rest went up, and they all fried. I bought 9 new AC60G's, and hooked one to a 12v battery. I let it sit for 2-4 minutes and it didn't swell up. I tried that same test with a new 13, and I want to say it swelled in less than 30 seconds. Un-Good. It may seem more cost effective to use the cheaper plugs, but if they all swell and you have to pull the heads, it suddenly got a lot more expensive.

 

[dstang97]

Hey beanman, I wired up a light that is connected to the glowplug side of the relay so that I could see how long they are actually on for. It turns out they are on for 10 to 15 seconds after engine start , add that to what ever time the wait light is on before engine start.

So 4 seconds is definately safe. They could probably run 30 seconds safely. Now granted I'm in colorado and it is still in the 20's at night, but that should give you an idea what the stock controller card is doing. I do tend to burn out about 2 ac60g's per month so I'm going to wire up a switch to disable the gp card immediately after the engine starts.

BTW could you post a picture of your 1009. I was looking at your profile picture and it looks pretty sharp, but I'd like to see a picture bigger than a thumbnail. I've been toying with the idea of painting mine dark blue.

thanks

So thats the reason My WTS light is still on with the Push button after it is running.

 

[beanman1]

i got the autolites for a deal i have a budy who works for advanced auto he gave me them for 20 bucks and the only pics i have on my laptop is one of me wheelin and a pic of my bros truck in the water

 

[jakwi]

Shouldn't be the wts light goes out or is supposed to when the gp controller card is satisfied that the engine should start given the conditions, I wired up the light because I suspected that my relay was sticking, but that turned out not to be the case.

So thats the reason My WTS light is still on with the Push button after it is running.

thanks for the pics, I just wanted to get a closer look.