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"Scrubbing" a 6TL battery to recover it?

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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The guy at Interstate gave me a tip. Hold the battery about a foot off the ground and drop it. That knocks the sulfation off the plates. He showed me on a battery that was junk and shorted the first time, he did the drop test and re checked, no more short and when he put it on the charger, it looked like it was gonna take a charge!
 

TexAndy

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well, I would think that would stand a good chance of breaking the plates themselves, but I'll give it a shot.

I've got a couple of batts that read 4.5 and 6.7 respectively.
 

hdexpert

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If the drop test doesn't work go to your local interstate dealer and tell him you want two group 31 blems. I bought mine for $40 each and they work great!! Guy at interstate said they were returns that were diagnosed incorrectly as being defective.
 

TexAndy

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well, I might end up doing that...

Drop height was about 6 inches and I tried to drop them flatly.

Battery one was at 4V. Dropped it a dozen times and now it reads 2V.
Battery two was at 6V. Dropped it 20 or so times and now it reads 3.83V.

I don't know if this is normal, good, or bad. I'm guessing either I broke loose a plate(s) or I knocked a chunk(s) of sulfation loose which is bridging the gap between a plate(s).
 

Crash_AF

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You probably broke the plates, but you can see if they'll take a charge. It's worth a try to see if you can salvage an otherwise junk battery, but I wouldn't try it with a battery in service.

I'd recommend buying a desulfating battery charger. They're not that much more expensive than a normal one and it is the right way to do it. Then install a solargizer on the truck and it will prevent the sulfate buildup in the first place.

Later,
Joe
 

emr

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Holy smokes, is this a joke thread, :???:...what if U crack the case just enough U do not see it and the acid seeps out over time, and another 100 silly things that can only mean failure, this is not a good idea, sorry, batts were never intended to be handled this way, for the guy who is a salesmen that said to do this, i have to say he is clueless. I have not met any batt sales people that have a clue as to how a batt actually works, read all batt posts, get a desuphator, if it does not work throw em out, there are batt systems that are out there to revitalize a batt, try batterystuff.com and look at there stuff, but the costs are silly unless U have a fleet, I keep over 20 batts running for like 30 years, dropping them is a big no no....keep em clean and charged,
 

WyoDeuce

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Laramie WY 7220 ft.
You guys are nuts. Batteries are not very expensive compared to being stuck somewhere with a truck that won't start. Quit with the redneck fixes and buy a couple batteries. :cookoo:
 

tennmogger

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An Exide battery salesman told me that one big difference between a 5 year battery and a 20 year battery is the space left at the bottom for the sulfate to accumulate in. Once sulfate builds up to the bottom of the plates, the cell is shorted.

Dropping them is a great idea! That would flatten the piles of sulfate.

The guy at Interstate gave me a tip. Hold the battery about a foot off the ground and drop it. That knocks the sulfation off the plates. He showed me on a battery that was junk and shorted the first time, he did the drop test and re checked, no more short and when he put it on the charger, it looked like it was gonna take a charge!
 

ryan77

Well-known member
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Location
Cary IL
I would rather spend 70 bucks and have a new battery and not worry about it. Dropping it may cause a hairline crack and then a acid leak next you have a rust hole and a bad battery. those 6tl are one big pig though, thought i was going to drop a nut lifting them out of my truck.
 

TexAndy

Active member
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Location
Bee County, Texas
You probably broke the plates, but you can see if they'll take a charge. It's worth a try to see if you can salvage an otherwise junk battery, but I wouldn't try it with a battery in service.

I'd recommend buying a desulfating battery charger. They're not that much more expensive than a normal one and it is the right way to do it. Then install a solargizer on the truck and it will prevent the sulfate buildup in the first place.

Later,
Joe

I've got one. A batteryminder. It appears to be working, but gosh dern is it slow. I've got it on a pair that read almost 11 now after sitting off the charger for 24 hours. But that's after being on the batteryminder for over a month.

eta: I would not recommend doing the drop thing from a foot with these giant 6TMFs or 6TLs. 1 foot will break a connection on the inside.
 

cbvet

Active member
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Northwest (Knox) Indiana
Many years ago I worked at a service station.

For you younger members, that's a gas station where the employees pump your gas, clean your windshield, check your oil, tires, wipers, & radiator. No kidding!

The guy I worked for was always looking for ways to make or save more money.
We had a piece of rain gutter in the back room that dumped into a 5 gallon can. We would put "empty" oil cans (yes, cans) upside down in the gutter to drain the last few drops of oil out of each can. Got about a half gallon a week. That oil was used in our tow truck or Jeep.

We also "rebuilt" batteries. We took weak batteries out back, turned them upside down, & beat the heck out of them with a hard rubber hammer. Periodically we would flush the chunks out with a hose. Once we figured we had them as clean as they were going to get, we filled them with fresh electrolyte & put them on a charger overnight.

We had a homemade test bench with an old starter on it. The starter shaft had a hub attached to it, and a wheel with a 15 inch tire on it. One half of the tire was filled with cement. Hook the cables to the "rebuilt" battery. If it would turn this lopsided load at a decent speed for 30 seconds, the battery was considered to be good. We sold them for about half of a new battery price.

Sometimes one would come back quickly, stone dead. But I know of some that lasted over 3 years!
 
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