Engine modifications - bottom end

[BIG_RED]

Hey guys,
My oil pan leaks quite a bit, so I'll be pulling it off to put on a new gasket this summer. What else should I do while I've got the oil out and the pan off? I've got some ideas, please let me know what you think about them (possible/worth it?) and maybe add some of your own ideas. Thanks.

1. Mechanical oil pressure gauge tapped into low oil pressure sensor (passenger side behind engine)

2. Main bearing web reinforcement kit - STUD GIRDLE KIT

3. Main bearing seals? mine don't leak yet..

4. Main bearings? can I replace them without pulling the crank?

5. Oil pump + pickup tube. Higher flowing?

 

[Westech]

put a new gasket on it and let it be. Your 6.2 is only 155 HP, unless your going to add a huge pump and turbo its not worth it. Bearings... well you can install new ones but why fix whats not broken. You can cause more problems instaling new barings with a old crank. leave it be. The oil pressure gauge is not a bad idea. Oil pump? well you can, but again the engine probily has under 300K on it so I bet it is still good. Dont reevent the wheel its a 6.2, just fix whats leaking and leave it alone.

 

[BIG_RED]

You're right, I only have 155 horsepower and I don't intend on adding a turbo soon, but I am considering turning up the fuel from the pump. I realize that adding fuel probably isn't worth much power, but its an old truck that needs a new engine anyways, so I might as well have a little fun and blow a little black smoke in the mean time. (call me what you will, but I love seeing a diesel leave a dark cloud in its wake.) I have 70,000 miles on the odo and judging by the condition of everything on the truck, I doubt it's rolled over. I've just read a few horror stories about guys having engines explode on them out of nowhere.. I am prepared to re-power my M1009, but I'd like to keep the 6.2 for a few more years. I've heard that my truck should last anywhere from 100,000 miles to 500,000 miles. Anybody got a real world idea of how long this thing will last? or what I should do to it to make it last?

 

[Westech]

The killer of the engines is High RPM for long time and overheating. The 6.2 will rev to 3500 no problem but she wont take it for long trips down the road. Keep the oil and filter changed every 5k and good fuel and filter. Also make sue the radiator and t stat/hoses are good, You should be good for a long time.

 

[jimmy-90]

One thing you could try that might be interesting since you are gonna take the oil pan off is to paint the outside of it with some of that sound deadening stuff. I've been wondering for a while if that would quiet down the diesel rattle any. Has anyone else tried that or is it more of a dumb idea???

 

[BIG_RED]

The t-stat is new this year. The rad hoses are a year old. I just put in a temp sensor and will have a temp gauge soon. I cleaned out my rad this year and was blown away by how much crap came out. I flushed everything out and topped it with a new rad cap. I should be good for overheating, and with the 3.08 gears out back, I rarely rev high and never for more than just to pass someone. Oil and filter always changed every 3000 - 5000 miles. Thanks for the input.

I imagine that a lot of the noise these engines make that's caused by the combustion goes right through the side of the block.. I know these engines are ALOT louder when they're only half full of coolant. (I had to move mine indoors to work on it, only ran it for 2 minutes, on flat ground, no throttle.) I imagine painting the pan with sound absorber might help a little, but i wouldn't expect much. I don't mind the noise, I'm deaf anyways and the radio is always louder

 

[burbn10]

You'll destroy that non-turbo motor by turning up the fuel. The exhaust gas temperatures will go through the roof. You can turn it up slightly, but if you are getting a lot of black smoke, you are probably making way too high of temps. Turbocharged engines can handle this much better. As far as upgrades... New harmonic balancer, head studs, Fel-Pro 6.5 permatorque head gaskets and a good oil pump. I've heard the stud girdle is a questionable upgrade. A lot of people still breaking blocks with even with it installed. Balancer and head gaskets are your 2 most common failures on these motors. You can take a chance and turn up the pump a little, but install an EGT gauge to keep an eye on temps.

....Or do what I am doing and pull that 6.2L dog out and drop in a 5.9 Cummins!

 

[Westech]

you can turn it up one flat and not have a problem.

 

[BIG_RED]

I plan on a 5.9 Cummins also, but not right now. Too many projects. I will get a pyrometer before I start messing with the IP. As for head studs and head gaskets - I'll fix it when I break it, or replace the engine then. Harmonic balancer is an interesting idea though.. I assumed that a harmonic balancer required fancy tools to time properly. Is it fairly straightforward?

Right now I have zero visible smoke while the engine is warm. I can see a hint of smoke when I'm hard on the gas, but never much. Think my IP timing is off too? (retarded)

 

[burbn10]

I plan on a 5.9 Cummins also, but not right now. Too many projects. I will get a pyrometer before I start messing with the IP. As for head studs and head gaskets - I'll fix it when I break it, or replace the engine then. Harmonic balancer is an interesting idea though.. I assumed that a harmonic balancer required fancy tools to time properly. Is it fairly straightforward?

Right now I have zero visible smoke while the engine is warm. I can see a hint of smoke when I'm hard on the gas, but never much. Think my IP timing is off too? (retarded)

It's on the keyed snout of the crankshaft. Just have to remove the pulley, the harmonic dampener bolt and use a dampener puller/installer tool. You can use the cheap 3 bolt one to remove it and use a piece of threaded rod with a nut and large washer to press it back on. Not too bad. No timing involved. It only goes on one way. Summit Racing makes an awesome dampener puller/installer kit. I got that one and love it. It just costs a bit more...

As far as your IP pump, it sounds like it is working in its stock configuration.

 

[BIG_RED]

Thanks. I've never messed with a harmonic damper. Do you think getting a brand name aftermarket replacement would be any better than a "Napa" or equivalent knock-off OEM one?

 

[aaron1009]

I'm the furthest thing from a diesel expert buuuut....won't more fuel = richer AFRs = lower EGTs?

This is certainly the case in gasoline engines and unless I'm missing a huge link in the chain I imagine basic principals of thermodynamics carry over.

 

[TyJustice]

I'm the furthest thing from a diesel expert buuuut....won't more fuel = richer AFRs = lower EGTs?

This is certainly the case in gasoline engines and unless I'm missing a huge link in the chain I imagine basic principals of thermodynamics carry over.

Pulled this from Banks web site...

So why is EGT important? EGT is an indication of how hot the combustion process is in the cylinders, and the amount of "afterburning" that is occurring in the exhaust manifold. EGT is also directly related to the air/fuel ratio. The richer the air/fuel ratio in a diesel, the higher the EGT will be. Two things can create a rich mixture under heavy loads or at full throttle: the first is too much fuel, and the second is not enough air. That seems simple enough, but it's the second part, not enough air, that could get a stock, unmodified truck or motorhome in trouble. Anything that restricts intake airflow, or intake air density, limits the air mass that gets to the cylinders. Think of it as the amount of oxygen getting to the cylinders to support the combustion of fuel. This could include: a dirty or restrictive air cleaner, a partially blocked air intake, high outside air temperature, high altitude, restricted airflow to or through the radiator or intercooler, and high water temperature. The vehicle's water temperature gauge will provide a warning of a cooling system problem, but the other problems aren't likely to be noticed without a pyrometer unless the driver notices excessive exhaust smoke. A pyrometer also reacts more quickly than the water temperature gauge, so it allows the driver to spot a problem sooner and avoid engine damage. A restrictive exhaust system can also reduce the airflow through the engine, resulting in a rich condition. Any of the above conditions can result in excessive EGT if the vehicle is working hard, such as pulling a heavy load, running at sustained high speed, subjected to climbing a long grade, etc.

 

[aaron1009]

Pulled this from Banks web site...

So why is EGT important? EGT is an indication of how hot the combustion process is in the cylinders, and the amount of "afterburning" that is occurring in the exhaust manifold. EGT is also directly related to the air/fuel ratio. The richer the air/fuel ratio in a diesel, the higher the EGT will be...

Well...I am thoroughly confused. Perhaps gasoline engines aren't this way after all...? Or maybe this case is particular to diesel engines. I'm too tired to look it up at the moment, but I have some research to do! Thanks TyJustice for the info!

 

[Mudstone]

harmonic balancer was the best thing i have dont to my 6.2 and i am about 3k from flipping the odometer.

 

[jj]

A new GM balancer for a 6.5 was less than $75, full list price, late last year at my local Chevy store. PN 10154688. This was for a 2002 full size van. It has four holes for mounting the accessory drive pulley, so i do not know if this one will work on a 6.2 of CUCV vintage. With that kind of price range, though, it couldn't hurt to try the dealer for the GM part. I will note that the balancer looked like a good quality piece, and not like some cheap chinese crap. They even had the piece on the shelf,as i recall. That surprised me a bit, as they have not sold this engine in a new vehicle since probably the '02 or '03 model year in the full size van.

 

[notsosanestan]

saturn surplus sells the dampener cheapp

 

[67_C-30]

I'm the furthest thing from a diesel expert buuuut....won't more fuel = richer AFRs = lower EGTs?

This is certainly the case in gasoline engines and unless I'm missing a huge link in the chain I imagine basic principals of thermodynamics carry over.

You're thinking in gas engine terms, which is totally different. A diesel has no buttlerflies to regulate air flow which why they pull no vacuum. A diesel pulls as much as air in at idle as a lot of gas engine do at WOT. Turning up the fuel is the only way to increase power. When you turbocharge a diesel, you cram even more air into the engine which allows you burn more fuel and it will stay cooler. In fact you can keep turning up boost with a turbo on a diesel and not add fuel, and it will lose power like gas does when is too rich.

 

[Mudstone]

i bought a brand new Dorman balancer for 80 out the door... it looked solid enough and has since cured a ton of my problems on the truck.

 

[Tanner]

Napaonline.com is showing the 6.2 harmonic balancers for $80.00 or less - will need to compare your part with their listings to confirm standard v-belt or serpentine application.

'Tanner'