M1009 is COMPLETELY dead

[Napoleon_Tanerite]

Ok, this is a bit of a spinoff of a post from another thread http://www.steelsoldiers.com/598751-post15.html


Long story short, I had an AC kit installed in my M1009. Started and ran great for the first 3 or 4 starts. I had left the blower motor on full power when I shut it off, and the switch was still in that position when I turned the key to restart after completing an errand. The truck was already plenty warm, so I turned the key directly to START. The blower started for a very brief moment, and then the entire truck went dead. No lights (including GP wait light) no horn, no NOTHING. Voltmeter reads nothing. I'm guessing I overloaded the electrical system with the blower motor on full and trying to engage the starter.

I checked all the underdash fuses, and they're all good. Where else should I look? A fusable link was mentioned in the other thread. Is there one that would cut total power instantly to a previously flawless truck? If so, where would it be located?

 

[Bobert]

Check the fusible links around the diamond shaped junction on the firewall on the driver's side. If you burn up the wire going to there from the battery it will make it go completely dead.

I have burnt up that wire and the one from the junction to gen 1 before.

 

[Napoleon_Tanerite]

can that wire be replaced with an in-line fuse, so if I'm dumb enough to do it again (read: WHEN i'm dumb enough to do it again) i can just throw in a spare fuse?

 

[kipman]

yup.

 

[Napoleon_Tanerite]

yup.

ok, so what amperage would such a fuse require to be effective, safe, and strong enough to handle the load handed to it?

 

[Cucvnut]

1.21 gigawatts

 

[Napoleon_Tanerite]

1.21 gigawatts

When that baby hits 88 miles per hour, you're gonna see some ****!


In other news, I looked at all the wires going to/from the diamond shaped block on the firewall. No obvious breaks or breakthroughs. After tugging on them and such I went and turned the key. All the lights came on (wasn't happening yesterday) and there was an intermittent clicking/knocking from the GP controller. The starter would NOT engage. When I turned the key to START, there was a buzzing coming from under the dash. I couldn't tell if it was coming from the engine compartment, since I was the only one out there and couldn't turn the key and listen under the hood.

Ideas?

 

[mistaken1]

Bad connection or maybe the fusible link opened.

The wire wiggling enabled enough current to pass to run the indicator lights but not starter relay.

 

[Flyingvan911]

When that baby hits 88 miles per hour, you're gonna see some ****!

Especially if it is a deuce!

 

[topgun217]

Mine did the same thing. I ended up going through all grounds & replacing all the batt. term. wires and it cleared up. As for the 1.21 gigawatts, you'll need the standard issue flux capasitor to achieve that. Far and few between on g/l. Although Kip may be to get half that much gig!

 

[Dodgeman1941]

I would make a guess that the "buzzing" was not buzzing, but the contacts of the starter relay under the dash arching, that equals "bad juju". So... I would make sure you had something available {either another relay or be prepared to Doghead it} once you figure out what the original issue is. As stated check your battery cables, ect.

 

[Crash_AF]

I would pull the main wire off the diamond shaped block and ohm it out. It is probably going to come out to something insanely high indicating a blown fusible link.

The fusible link should be replaced with a high amp, slow blow fuse to prevent it from blowing during brief high amp situations if you are not going to replace it with a fusible link. You're going to need something in the 100 amp range (add up all the little fuses in the fuse box and add 10%)

Later,
Joe

 

[Bobert]

I have a 40 amp in line fuse on my wire. The wire from the battery terminal to the diamond block is the one I am talking about. I had a 30 amp at first but it kept blowing so I put a 40 amp and i have only blown it a couple times in a year. 1 time was when i added a temp/compass power rear view mirror.

 

[Napoleon_Tanerite]

Ok, something is BAD wrong with it, and it's not the fusable link either. Apparently the air shop pulled the whole steering column, and now there's a short somewhere under the dash. It's the air shop's problem starting tomorrow. They broke it, they fix it.

 

[Crash_AF]

Yea, definitely get them involved now... something is jacked and it's their responsibility to make it right.

I would bet there's a pinched wire above the steering column, probably between the ignition switch and pedal brace.

Later,
Joe

 

[Napoleon_Tanerite]

Yea, definitely get them involved now... something is jacked and it's their responsibility to make it right.

I would bet there's a pinched wire above the steering column, probably between the ignition switch and pedal brace.

Later,
Joe

sounds like it, because moving the brake pedal has an effect on the clicking... pull the petal out (toward the back of the truck) and the clicking stops (and the truck dies). Let the pedal rest naturally or push it in and the truck clicks (and will still not start)

I'm going to call the shop tomorrow morning and have them send the guy who did the work over to see the truck. It's either that or they pay to tow it to the shop!

 

[Varyag]

Did you think about installing a Mr Fusion? You could mount it to the back and just run the thing off aluminum cans and banana peels. It should provide the 1.21 without needing to overload the main electrical system.

On a side note, I installed a 50 amp fuse between the main battery and the rest of the truck on my land cruiser. It helps if something runs away and nothing else catches it. Painless makes a bolt on kit for it.

 

[CUCV85]

Check the fusible links around the diamond shaped junction on the firewall on the driver's side. If you burn up the wire going to there from the battery it will make it go completely dead.

I have burnt up that wire and the one from the junction to gen 1 before.

I just experenced a total dead and I found the fusible link between the Positive 24 Buss terminal and the Ground Buss block under it. I hate these Fusible links. This one already had black electrical tape around it gooy

 

[REGULATOR]

well I was going to ask what shop installed the ac and how much... but I guess I better see if they fix it first