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Turn Signal Switch Fix

USArmyMedic07

New member
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Location
Bakersfield, CA
Ok fellas, I had a bad connection in my turn signal system. I checked and cleaned all of the grounds, including at each light housing, and the ground on the steering column which holds the switch to the column. (yes, that is a ground point). I am a newbie, but I have plenty of free time, and used to drive a LMTV, 5 ton, and hmmwv in the Army. Have done the basic maintenance and troubleshooting when the mechanic (my buddy tweeter) was busy. That is the back story on why you might want to try my solution.

If you have intermittent function with your turn signals and flashers and have checked all of your grounds, then you may want to open up your switch and check to see that the contacts are all making good contact when you turn the switch.

You'll need a phillips screwdriver to remove the switch and open it up. Next, put the plastic part on that engages the contacts and turn it with a slotted screwdriver. Check and ensure that each of the contacts is making GOOD contact, including the ground contact. Check all of the wires while you are in there and make sure nothing is busted. The switch is sealed, and doesnt get much abuse (usually) so it shouldn't be too badly destroyed. Try this before you bother with buying a new switch. If anyone tries this and finds it useful, please reply and say so.

Thanks Ya'll

Zak
 

cattlerepairman

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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NORTH (Canada)
Good fix! Turn signals acting up can also be because of the turn signal "flasher box" in the engine compartment going bad. I cleaned and adjusted the switch, too, but needed a new box in the end.
 
Last edited:

USArmyMedic07

New member
26
2
3
Location
Bakersfield, CA
Very true. I was going to look into that if the switch and grounds checked out and I still had problems. I figured I would check the "free fixes" first before I went on to spending money. I'm sure I'm not the first person to have this same issue. I hope it helps out.

Anybody know how to get the blowoff valve for the air compressor to stop popping off and on rapidly?
 

cranetruck

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Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Welcome to the site and thanks for your post!
FWIW, the ground connection on the steering column is only for the indicator light on the switch...
 

Wildchild467

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Milford / Michigan
I have an issue with my left rear turn signal now. The bulb went bad once, replaced the bulb (i forget the number, but it was the dual filament style) and it still does not work. I got the Fluke meter out and started looking at things. i probed to the ground ont he socket itself and the other to the positive wire in the socket that would make contact with the bulb and the meter shows i have 24 volts. I checked the plugs close to the tail light housing and they look fine. Im thinking the turn signal switch like you guys are saying. the brake light does not work on that side either. The brake lights feed through the switch, correct? If i pulled the plug off the back of the turn signal switch, is there a socket i could put power to bypass the switch just to see if the bulb lights up? this would be a quick simple test im thinking.
 

earnie

Member
171
0
16
Location
seattle ,washington,usa
I have an issue with my left rear turn signal now. The bulb went bad once, replaced the bulb (i forget the number, but it was the dual filament style) and it still does not work. I got the Fluke meter out and started looking at things. i probed to the ground ont he socket itself and the other to the positive wire in the socket that would make contact with the bulb and the meter shows i have 24 volts. I checked the plugs close to the tail light housing and they look fine. Im thinking the turn signal switch like you guys are saying. the brake light does not work on that side either. The brake lights feed through the switch, correct? If i pulled the plug off the back of the turn signal switch, is there a socket i could put power to bypass the switch just to see if the bulb lights up? this would be a quick simple test im thinking.
the bulb part number is 1683 first off
second does the front left turn signal work as well as the 4 way flashers
if the turn signal and brake light on this corner both do not work
i would say that the bulb is defective , as you say that you have 24 volts at the socket
if this is not the fix i would try to slave in the tailight assy from the right side in and see if the problem still exists/ try the bulb from the right side in the left side
let us know
 

Wildchild467

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Milford / Michigan
All the bulb functions work fine on the whole truck with the exception of the left rear turn signal/brake light. I tried 2 bulbs, both i tested good with an ohm meter do not work, also used a 24v test light that was tested good with 24v. I should test them with 24v, and see what happens just incase its something really wierd. But when i see the 24v with my ohm meter on the light bulb socket itself, i see the 24v then. My thought was if the brake lights/ turn signals are wired through the turn signal switch, maybe a bad contact in the switch is letting the 24v pass but with hardly any current.

Does the TM have a diagram of the turn signal plug itself so i could see if i put 24v to a socket and verify my left brake/turn light working? Again, this is me being pretty sure that the brake lights go through the turn signal switch. This would rule out wiring from the switch to the left brake/turn light.
 

earnie

Member
171
0
16
Location
seattle ,washington,usa
All the bulb functions work fine on the whole truck with the exception of the left rear turn signal/brake light. I tried 2 bulbs, both i tested good with an ohm meter do not work, also used a 24v test light that was tested good with 24v. I should test them with 24v, and see what happens just incase its something really wierd. But when i see the 24v with my ohm meter on the light bulb socket itself, i see the 24v then. My thought was if the brake lights/ turn signals are wired through the turn signal switch, maybe a bad contact in the switch is letting the 24v pass but with hardly any current.

Does the TM have a diagram of the turn signal plug itself so i could see if i put 24v to a socket and verify my left brake/turn light working? Again, this is me being pretty sure that the brake lights go through the turn signal switch. This would rule out wiring from the switch to the left brake/turn light.
i pmed you check your messages
 

Wildchild467

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,052
57
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Location
Milford / Michigan
I FIXED IT! :smile: I tried looking at some wiring diagrams of the turn signals on SS here, but the computer at home is not as good as the one at work, so it didnt help. I used a jumper wire cliped on the battery positive post and the other end was cliped to a scribe/probe. Then i un pluged the turn signal switch and probed into the sockets and had a friend behind the truck tell me what lit up. I should also add that i used a 15 amp fuse also in my jumper wire to prevent a meltdown incase i hit a ground. anyway, i found the socket for the left rear brake/turn signal light, and it lit right up! So then i knew the problem must be in the turn signal switch. I took the switch apart and found a bad solder connection on one of the wires. Mine bad connection was on the "board" where the contacts are. I reflowed the solder on that connection, along with the others that looked sketchy. Also, sanded down the contacts with some 400 grit to just to clean them up. I reinstalled the switch and it works great! I attached a picture of the bad solder connection on the board. :beer:
 

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