So, started the truck and Gen1 light came on...

[Dabba]

And the voltmeter is down halfway. I also did the run the truck and pull the battery cable test, the truck stalled when i pulled the neg term. So, im assuming the alt is indeed bad. Which one is generator one? And is it as easy to get off as it looks? And if i cant get it rebuilt, any replacments available?

 

[ida34]

If it was not before it is now. Do not disconnect an alternator from a battery while the truck is running. It spikes the alternator and if the spike does not kill it the alternator will sense zero voltage and start putting out high voltage attempting to charge thin air.

Gen 1 is on the Driver's side and this one does not need an isolated ground. Do a search and you will be able to find the number you need to get. Got to go no time to search for you right now. I would have yours rebuilt by a shop. If they do not know what an isolated ground is then find another shop that does.

 

[Dabba]

Thanks man, ill rip it off and have it tested. I heard that taking the battery off is a good way to test the alt? I guess not, but why do i hear several people say it? Whats the proper way to test one?

 

[Warthog]

The CUCV Wiki at the top of the CUCV Forum and the CUCV FAQ Sticky have the part numbers for the alternators and belts.

It will be cheaper to have the alternator rebuilt than to buy a new one. NAPA sells a rebuilt Isolated Ground but they have has issues with them not really being Isolated Grounds. If you do buy one, test it before walking out the door.

 

[Warthog]

The only electrical item required for the CUCVs to run is the 12v Injector Pump Solenoid. It gets its power from the front battery and the drivers side GEN1.

It has to have power from one of them. If the GEN1 is not working and the battery is disconnected then it loses all power and will shutdown.


The correct way to check an alternator is with a Voltmeter or Testing station.

 

[cjtroutt]

If it was not before it is now. Do not disconnect an alternator from a battery while the truck is running. It spikes the alternator and if the spike does not kill it the alternator will sense zero voltage and start putting out high voltage attempting to charge thin air.

Gen 1 is on the Driver's side and this one does not need an isolated ground. Do a search and you will be able to find the number you need to get. Got to go no time to search for you right now. I would have yours rebuilt by a shop. If they do not know what an isolated ground is then find another shop that does.

Listen to ida34 he know his stuff Also warthog does to .
I have my done by an local shop. & I tell them new parts for the rebuild. Chuck & warthog Take care. ABN173 enjoy FL take care to.

 

[1stSarge]

on ida and warthog

Also if you are just a little savvy, you can rebuild it yourself, the kit is around $45. I know someone here was working on a good write-up on how to do it, but I haven’t seen it yet…

 

[Warthog]

... I know someone here was working on a good write-up on how to do it, but I haven’t seen it yet…

Hey, I resemble that remark..........................

 

[Dabba]

I went ahead and ordered that cady alt for the drivers side. Is it really the same or no? I saw the wiki article said its 78 amps compared to the original 100? I guess i should hold onto my original in case and just have some place rebuild it? Is there any civilian apps for the cucv alts?

I called another place asking about the caddy alt with the part number They couldnt look it up because it wasnt one of their part numbers. What? Don't you rebuild other manufacturers stuff? Jeeze >.>

 

[Dabba]

And my little plug that plugs into the alt is a little burnt up, anyone know where i can grab one?

 

[Warthog]

And my little plug that plugs into the alt is a little burnt up, anyone know where i can grab one?

If it is the "two plug" little plug, any parts store will have it for a couple of bucks. The wire colors will be different.

And since the plug is burnt, have your alternator checked. It may be okay and the connection was bad.

Also when you get the new alternator, check the pully size. The CUCV pully is 71mm and the the new ones ate 62mm, I can't remember the exact size. I have it posted somewhere

 

[shkira]

I swapped the alternator plug ends and looks nice and new..except like you said the wire colors.

So I am going to try to swap in the Caddy Alternator and see how my lower voltage readings check out.

Anything I need to be aware of since this is a case grounded unit vice the original floating ground set up? Ground wire to the case and that is the only change?

Is the caddy alt a direct bolt in -- just check the pulley size?

If it is the "two plug" little plug, any parts store will have it for a couple of bucks. The wire colors will be different.

And since the plug is burnt, have your alternator checked. It may be okay and the connection was bad.

Also when you get the new alternator, check the pully size. The CUCV pully is 71mm and the the new ones ate 62mm, I can't remember the exact size. I have it posted somewhere

 

[Warthog]

I swapped the alternator plug ends and looks nice and new..except like you said the wire colors.

So I am going to try to swap in the Caddy Alternator and see how my lower voltage readings check out.

Anything I need to be aware of since this is a case grounded unit vice the original floating ground set up? Ground wire to the case and that is the only change?

Is the caddy alt a direct bolt in -- just check the pulley size?

It should be a direct bolt-in. Yes on checking the pully size. You can remove the black ground wire or find a place to attach it.

Just remember for the future - This alternator will only work on the drivers side.

 

[shkira]

If it is the "two plug" little plug, any parts store will have it for a couple of bucks. The wire colors will be different.

And since the plug is burnt, have your alternator checked. It may be okay and the connection was bad.

Also when you get the new alternator, check the pully size. The CUCV pully is 71mm and the the new ones ate 62mm, I can't remember the exact size. I have it posted somewhere

>>>Awesome exactly what I hoped to hear. We'll see when it comes in.

I have no intention of leaving the commercial alternator on there. I am just doing it for a test of the system. If with the caddy unit installed my system keeps up then both rebuilt alternators are getting sent back to get checked. Then the floating ground units will get reinstalled.

Whats strange is that the Wiki states 78A Caddy alternator. But when I was ordering it I had an option for 100A so I ordered that one. Were there HO Caddy alternators too?

Thanks

 

[Dabba]

The DL caddy alternator is not a direct replacement!

Here they are side by side, im just having a guy rebuild mine... Im sure itll work but im guessing that little nub thats missing is for the voltmeter, im not dealing with that.

 

[shkira]

So that alternator looks bigger. Whats the rated output? Is the military one just more compact but also 100A?

 

[Dabba]

They both a physically the same size, same case, the outputs just appear to be in different spots and theres no "pin" output.

Also, rating was not on the box or remaned alt, but as per the cucv article, it says 78 amps. I guess it would work if that little pin is the voltmeter, but then you wont have a voltmeter, just have yours rebuilt.

 

[Warthog]

Here they are side by side, im just having a guy rebuild mine... Im sure itll work but im guessing that little nub thats missing is for the voltmeter, im not dealing with that.

That little nub is for the ICE/STE diagnostic tach. Not needed unless you have the test unit. Just don't cut the wire off.

 

[Warthog]

So that alternator looks bigger. Whats the rated output? Is the military one just more compact but also 100A?

Optical illusion. The cases are the same size.

 

[Dabba]

Ahhh, good to know, so i guess it would work fine then, but i'd rather have my 100A rebuilt than a remaned 78A