My New M37

[CGarbee]

Quick question: will the Krylon OD Green spay paint provide good rust protection in the wheel area? I want to use that since when I degreased the drums it also removed the paint that was protecting the mountings of the cylinder and shoes. I will be also using it on the undercarriage as the previous owner missed a couple of spots.

It's better than nothing...

Seriously, I have used a lot of Rust-Oleum on my trucks. It is the same basic chemistry as the Gillespie that I shoot for a top coat. Although I do most of my work with the spray gun, I do use the cans for a lot of touch up work or for small stuff (both Rust-Oleum and Gillespie). I suspect that the Krylon in the can will work just fine for you.

Good luck.

 

[Capt.Marion]

Is there primer left, or did it take it all the way down to bare metal? If bare metal, I'd recommend using Rust-Oleum "Rusty Metal Primer." Super easy to use, and pretty darn sturdy.

 

[STSCSS]

Got 2 sets of new shoes (should have bought 4) and the old ones show little or no use. Should I place the new ones on the rear wheels?
Have to move the boat (M37) by Monday due to repair of driveway.

Also where is the fill plug on the rear pumpkin? (rear axle?) Going to replace as much of the major fluids in her over the weekend due to replacing the concrete on monday. (best way not incur wrath of wife over crapping up new driveway)

Thanks in advance

 

[Capt.Marion]

Put the new shoes on the front wheels. As you brake and slow down, the weight shifts to the front of the truck. That's why lots of cars have front disc brakes and rear drum brakes.

Can't help with the drain plug, sorry. Should be fairly obvious, but I can't recall where it is exactly.

 

[STSCSS]

Seems contralogical (just had to use that word) for the brakes Will continue the hunt tonite. More pictures to follow

 

[Capt.Marion]

Think momentum and inertia...

 

[STSCSS]

Disaster today with the brake lines, I got the brake system back together, some of the new brake lines did not fit correctly and this was not realized until I started to purge the lines. The worst part was that the T connection that is on top of the front pumpkin was stripped out on the one side. I don’t know if this was because of the attempt loosen the old brake line that I stripped the treads or when I put the new line on that was not straight I cross threaded.
So Now begins the hunt for this part or some semblance of a replacement.
Any ideas who would have this fitting? With the new lines being short I will have to replace the front left wheel line.
Otherwise the repair work went well. As we pulled off the old brake system we scraped paint and primed and repainted. The drums got a new coat of paint and the kids had a blast watching the work.
The radiator comes in next week from its repair, hopefully the brake line issue will be fixed and I can get her running again. The two frost plugs are next (Lower ones still need pointers on that) and then the electrical system.

In between getting this one back on her legs I have two more M37’s to go pick up. Pictures later on those two.

then it is getting the shed cleaned out to fit them in I dont like storing outdoors.

looking back maybe collecting stamps was'nt all that bad of a hobby.......

but you just cant justify buying a M-1 Garand to go with the stamp collection....

 

[Oldvw2]

snip So Now begins the hunt for this part or some semblance of a replacement.
Any ideas who would have this fitting?

Truck is looking good! Bonus points for your helpers using the brake drums as stools to supervise your work J Bizal or any of the usual suppliers (AB LInn, Memphis etc.) would have that fitting. I purchased mine from Midwest Military.

 

[colbanister]

You can also try Vintage power Wagons They have a nice online catalog where you can see pics of the parts you need. Your truck looks great.
Vintage Power Wagons-- Your Source for Dodge Power Wagon Parts and Trucks! -- civilian military m 37, m-37 wc Dodge Power Wagon

 

[Capt.Marion]

I'd recommend sticking to John Bizal at Midwest Military or AB Linn for parts as Memphis and VPW are significantly more expensive (like $16 for a 3" piece of hose for the gas tank filler pipe).

 

[pwrwagonfire]

Truck is looking great! I am unfortunately stalled until the new inner axle seals for the front axle come in (HOPEFULLY tomorrow...)

I have been painting the brake drums, and drum supports as well to help protect them a bit. I've actually been using restoleum high temp primer on the brake parts, just to make sure everything is temp friendly (used high-temp grease as well). Those M37/power wagon brakes can get HOT!

That brass fitting is in sort of a bad place eh? haha I found that out last week, it seems as we are pretty much keeping pace with each other!

As the other guys said, any place with M-37 parts should have it, I do agree however that Memphis equipment is a little pricier, but they are the closest to me over in the northeast!

Good luck, keep updating with pictures!

 

[STSCSS]

yeah, I took off both of the splash guards and since I had the radiator out I was able to work on the fitting and really scew it up!

It is on my desk right now and it looks like NPA does not have the part so its up to midwest.

 

[STSCSS]

At the point where I need to replace the lower frost plugs. Any tips on making this job eaiser besicdes taking the engine out completely?

 

[armytruck63]

Do you have enough space to drill a hole and use a slide hammer to get the plugs out? Remember that you also have to have enough room to hammer the new plug in.

 

[STSCSS]

Will have when I pull off the front fender. They are so rusted that I dont need a slide hammer. What is the best tool to transfer the force of the hammer to the plug?

 

[dcwilkie]

n/t

 

[STSCSS]

N/T ?????

What is n/t?

 

[M-37Bruce]

I was wondering the same thing??

 

[armytruck63]

Taking the front fender off is much easier than pulling the engine. I have never done freeze plugs myself, but I remember someone installing them in with a hammer and a socket from a socket set that was just smaller than the diameter of the plug.

 

[STSCSS]

concave side out )
or Concave side facing engine block (