last word in CUCV stereo install

[kapnklug]

So here we have the absolute cheapest, easiest most convenient stereo install for the CUCV. After pulling this AM/FM/CD out of a junkyard van, I removed the unit from the sheetmetal receiver box that bolted to the van's dash. I then welded two 16ga "ears" on either side. They allow the unit to sit level despite the curved roof, and create a 2" place above the unit to store CDs. The ears have tabs on them for two (short!) screws into the roof. All the wires can be tucked into the rubber lip of the windshield weatherstrip. The dashboard-speaker wires and power wires run down the side weathstrip and slip around the edges of the dash, the rear speaker wires jump from the top corner of the windshield weatherstrip to the top corner of the door weatherstrip, then down the back of the door weatherstrip to the rear speakers that mount between the door pillar and the inner wheelwell. Total cost: $0! And no cutting up your dash!

 

[doghead]

Post up a picture of 90 degree dent in your right temple, the first time you go off-roading!

Is that an 8-track player?

 

[kapnklug]

Ya, that was a concern, but with my seatbelt on and trying to bash my head on it, I'm still about a foot away. Might be an issue in a rollover, but in that case there will be alot of issues.
PS Not an 8-track, it's a CD with a digital face; when it's off the display goes black.

 

[Midnight Rider]

That's one way to do it.

 

[DerangedMadman]

Post up a picture of 90 degree dent in your right temple, the first time you go off-roading!

Is that an 8-track player?

lol

 

[The G Man]

Nice looking mount.. I wish someone would make a converter so I could play my eight tracks in my cd palyer

 

[kapnklug]

beta testing

Update on the ultimate in cheap 'n' easy radio installs...
Still haven't bashed my head on it (really, it's not even close). But there is a small problem: the LCD display on the unit is at an angle to your eyes as your drive, which makes it hard to read (like when you look at a laptop screen from the side). If I was doing it over (which I'm not) I'd make the mounting tabs asymmetrical so the unit faces the driver. Or mount it on a center bolt so it can turn left and right for driver or passenger.

 

[burbn10]

Post up a picture of 90 degree dent in your right temple, the first time you go off-roading!

Is that an 8-track player?

 

[Mike_Kendall]

If you drilled holes in the roof I would never do that myself.

 

[kapnklug]

Obviously the screws only go into the inner roof, not to the outside.

 

[scoutdoors1000]

Cheapest and easiest way.....go pull a radio from a junker and install in the factory location. No CD player but get a factory radio in a factory location.

Yours does look good though.

 

[chevkeith]

I am looking to put a stereo in my D30 - did you install a 24v - 12v stepdown? or wire directly to batt #1 (12V)?

On another thread I saw that someone bought a fuse block from autozone to tap into the 12v converter block on the firewall.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[doghead]

What's a D30?

 

[chevkeith]

Im not up to speed on the military classification but its a K30 with a utility box on the back. I've heard them referred to as "contact maintenance vehicles".

Still has the 24v starting system on it...

 

[kapnklug]

Looks like whatcha got there is an M1031. I've never heard the term D30, but my local chevy dealer calls my M1009 blazer a D10.
Anyway, my truck was already converted to 12V, but with your 24V system you'd want to run the radio to the front battery.

 

[OL AG '89]

I like the idea of the junkyard cd player, but I'm 6'4" with my shirt on...... A little too close to the noggin for my likin......
I've seen an install using a center console..... I'm thinkin to protect my wonderful looks and avoid any unecessary bloodshed in the venicle I'll go with the console install.....

I'll post some pictures when I get around to it....

 

[burbn10]

What's a D30?

It's just a K30 made for the Department of Defense.

 

[burbn10]

I am looking to put a stereo in my D30 - did you install a 24v - 12v stepdown? or wire directly to batt #1 (12V)?

On another thread I saw that someone bought a fuse block from autozone to tap into the 12v converter block on the firewall.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

I added a small fuse block to run my radio and GPS 12v plug off the junction block on the firewall. But I run all my speakers off an amplifier that is powered directly to the front battery. That way my radio is pulling absolute minimal power by acting just as a preamp. Best way would be to add a decent sub-panel somewhere in the truck (I'm adding a 12 circuit marine one behind the seat) and run it through a resettable circuit breaker or Maxi-fuse back to the battery. I picked up an awesome marine fuse panel from Blue Sea Systems on Ebay for $30. Has a cover over the whole thing, all tin plated connections to stop corrosion, and has a grounding bus bar on it as well. Best I have ever found for the money.

 

[chevkeith]

I found a block on the firewall that converts 24v to 12v (12VCONT) for the lights, horns, etc...figured I would just put an in-line fuse off the positive terminal and I should be set. I looked for a fuse block but couldn't find one that was "weather proof" - or atleast one that was suitable for mounting on the firewall.

Found a good spot to mount the radio too - just need to make a mounting bracket.

If I can find a good fuse block I will probably put that in so I can run some extra lighting and whatnot.

Thanks for the help

 

[MakersTeleMark]

I've never wired a thing in my life and just put in a stereo the other day. Here's what I did:

Cut off the harness on a used pretty nice head unit. Followed the wiring diagram and extended and soldiered all the connections after measuring distances. One to ground (found a space for a 1/4" bolt under the dash), always hot, ignition hot, illumination wire, and then 1 to each of 4 speakers.

Rigged the always hot to an always hot 12v on the fuse panel under the dash on the left, rigged the ignition to the ignition 12v on the same panel and spliced in the illumination wire to the wire running to the volt bulb.

Simple as that and it works great. No need to rig directly to the battery. Fabbed up a mount to support the rear of the unit, a bit of sawzall/air tool grinder work at the factory location and with the dash and it's all done. Need to mount the speakers still. Thinking 2 in the door panel and I'll build a box for behind the seat. Might find a low profile subwoofer for under the bench. But it worked fine for a road trip I just took.