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alternator mounting pictures.

badassissimo

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I was looking on the forum at a few pictures but I'm still confused about how to get the driver's side on there. I'm pretty sure I lost the bolt for the lower bracket. I haven't been able to figure out how long it is or if I need a nut on the other side. Could someone post some pictures of the driver side alternator mounted on the brackets, that bolt I'm missing, and maybe some pictures of what have been problems for other members. Hopefully this truck gets running when I figure out what bolt to go to lowes and look for. I'm thinking 3 1/2" 3/8" width.
 

Warthog

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Which bolts are your missing? The #9? If so there are two of them and they thread into the bracket.

They are metric not SAE. 10mm x 1.5 x 40mm

The top bolt is 10 x 1.5 x 30

TM 9-2320-289-34p figure 33
 

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wallew

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Warthog,
Can you (or any one else) PLEASE tell me why GM mixed SAE and Metric on this (and numerous other) truck(s)?

I've owned numerous Suburbans of this era and it's the same thing...

Not trying to make a big deal out of it. But it is one of those things that just 'irks' me. I don't mind having both sets of tools out to do the work, but I mean, REALLY? It was necessary to mix the two? What, the engineers took the day off? The subsystem suppliers WANTED to mix them?

Sorry, rant off. Just curious if ANYONE has ANY EXPLANATION for this?
 

Warthog

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The only explination I have is because.................... they can

No idea. I guess they started using suppliers from other countries that weren't SAE.
 

Wolf.Dose

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Warthog, I can, for the altinator mounts are 100% original CUCV parts! As a speciallist you should have reqognized that.
And my intention was simply to help badassissimo.
If you do not understand that, that someone trys to help a guy in the Staates form this side of the Atlantic Ocean und just wents down the stairs to take a picture at somewhat after 08 pm I guess you are wrong in this forum or I am wrong here.
Next:
You as a US-American should have noticed long before us here in Europe that the 6.2 l Diesel of Detroit Diesel (It is a Detroit Diesel engine, not a GM engine!) is the first full metric engine designed in the US. Only parts that could not be changed are in SAE. Do not forget, the US changed to the metric system in 1980, which is simply 30 years ago. And you did not realize that.
My consequences will be that I will not respond on any CUCV question any more even I drove a M1009 for 372000 km in 14 years until the rust killed the truck.
If anyone is sorry for that, claims to Warthog.
Wolf
PS: Warthog, you stated your reply while I was busy taking pictures and converting them.
 
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Warthog

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Warthog, I can, for the altinator mounts are 100% original CUCV parts! As a speciallist you should have reqognized that.
And my intention was simply to help badassissimo.
If you do not understand that, that someone trys to help a guy in the Staates form this side of the Atlantic Ocean und just wents down the stairs to take a picture at somewhat after 08 pm I guess you are wrong in this forum or I am wrong here.
Next:
You as a US-American should have noticed long before us here in Europe that the 6.2 l Diesel of Detroit Diesel (It is a Detroit Diesel engine, not a GM engine!) is the first full metric engine designed in the US. Only parts that could not be changed are in SAE. Do not forget, the US changed to the metric system in 1980, which is simply 30 years ago. And you did not realize that.
My consequences will be that I will not respond on any CUCV question any more even I drove a M1009 for 372000 km in 14 years until the rust killed the truck.
If anyone is sorry for that, claims to Warthog.
Wolf
PS: Warthog, you stated your reply while I was busy taking pictures and converting them.
Just giving you a hard time. Any and all pictures/posts are welcome. I appreciate your contributions to this site and on the Zone.

You have a wealth of knowledge and thank you for sharing it.

Please accept my appologies.
 
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badassissimo

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Eureka

The diagrams helped a lot. Thank you for the photos just the same Wolf. I don't have those same bolts but I have bolts that fit. I thought I would need a long one like on the passenger side but I have two short ones. None the less, I'll be at work in an hour and with any luck, on the truck in 9 hours. Today is Friday and if we do the sales we did yesterday, I'll be at Domino's till 10 or 11 at night. Can't wait to have this truck up n running though. Been tinkering so long and finding out more n more about it every time I go on steel soldiers. Not to be too confusing but doesn't the TM say GM Diesel? I had the TM downloaded before my computer crashed. Haven't had a chance to get either downloaded again. Thank you all again and I'll post pics if I get a chance of the alternators mounted with the belts.

Nick
 

Wolf.Dose

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The TM says it is a GM Diesel, however, the engine was made by Detroit Diesel, however exclusively for GM (and for the Hummer), no dought. Block and heads were cast in Germany by two different foundries, one in Nordrhein Westfalen, the other in Baden Würtemberg (Bundeslaender (federal countries), not cities!) as I had to learn during the years.
The original GM Diesel was the designe error of the 350 /5.7 l Diesel based on the small block. That engine failed as known commonly, lifetime some 60000 miles to the max.
Wolf
 

Wolf.Dose

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British still think in the imperial system.
However, the USA changed officially to ISO in 1980.
If we over here use a vehicle with british or US standard parts, we learn the sizes relatively quick, for ist is needed to maintain these vehicles.
From my side I have the impression that the other side, means a lot of people in the US are NOT willing to learn other systems, even they would need it to maintain their vehicles in ISO standards.
About 250,000,000 people use SAE standards, about 5,000,000,000 + people use ISO. So who is on the wrong track? Or lets say not flexible?
The engineers in the US I have to work with since many years changed to the ISO system, for they have to for world wide requirements. And they like it for the system makes sence for them. Why the others can not....?
Wolf
Diplom Ingenieur Universitaet
 

southdave

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I am with ya wolf, it just got confusing around these parts a few years ago. ISO here at times turns into a paper chase but is getting better. I ways thought 1987 they mixed Brit ISO with Mil-spec and we got ISO 90001. Thought it all came from the Swiss ? This mostly verbal & memory from my dad who is a nuke Eng. type
 

badassissimo

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Hello again everybody. Ok, I have the alternators in place and I believe the wiring is correct. Now, the belts I found at Oreillys don't seem to line up. I asked for alternator belts and they asked if I needed them for vacuum pump or naturally aspirated. I can't remember seeing another pump other than the power steering so I said naturally aspirated. That belt doesn't fit at all. I took it back and got the vacuum pump one. That one fits on passenger side only. The one for the driver side doesn't fit again because it is an inch longer. Looking at Wolf's picture and judging the size of the belts I found, I would say I have the wrong belt for the driver side. I have a few pictures to get help checking this. I think the driver side belt goes around the alternator, power steering pump, crank wheel (not sure what its called, lol), and then the fan wheel before returning. I think it stays to the most inside groove on all four pulley wheels. But, in Wolf's picture, it seems to be on the second to most inside groove. Any help and perahps a model number for the pulley would be extremely helpful.

Nick
 

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Warthog

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Of course the belts won't fit correctly as this is a military application.

The belts will not be listed in parts store listing. Those are civvy engine listings. Look in the CUCV wiki for the belt numbers.

The belt number are listed and any parts house can get them with that number.
 

badassissimo

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Of course the belts won't fit correctly as this is a military application.

The belts will not be listed in parts store listing. Those are civvy engine listings. Look in the CUCV wiki for the belt numbers.

The belt number are listed and any parts house can get them with that number.
You were definitely on the money for that one. Second page I think. Found this:

Power Steering - Gates 8453 (cancelled #)
Gates 7450
Angle 36
Effective Length 45
Outside Circumference 45.58
Top Width 10mm

Rightt Alt - 48513 - 10A1230
Gates 7485

Angle 36
Effective Length 48.5
Outside Circumference 49.08
Top Width 10mm

Leftf Alt - 57515 - 11A1460
Gates 7575

Angle 36
Effective Length 57.5
Outside Circumference 58.8
Top Width 10mm

I'm just confused about the pattern now. Wolf, do you maybe have a picture or a description of where all your driver side alternator belt goes? I think it is the belt marked as left (57515) and it goes around the crank wheel, pwr steering, driver alternator, and fan wheel. But, I could be wrong. It will be trial and error tomorrow but hopefully my last trip to Oreillys.

Nick
 

Warthog

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The belt routing is covered in the Operators Tech Manual - TM 9-2320-289-10.

It's amazing what you can find in there......:wink:

Intsll the PS belt first, tehn the GEN1 belt and finally the GEN2 belt
 

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badassissimo

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The belt routing is covered in the Operators Tech Manual - TM 9-2320-289-10.

It's amazing what you can find in there......:wink:

Intsll the PS belt first, tehn the GEN1 belt and finally the GEN2 belt
Well, good news and bad news then.... :???:

My belts run like the picture in terms of length and path. The order is different. I guess that isn't a problem. The order is the same as the 1010. The driver gen belt is closest to the engine, then the pwr str, and finally the passenger gen. I'm not sure if this is working so well now..... If the belts are meant to go on in a different order, maybe the pulley is backwards on the power steering pump and perhaps the driver side generator needs to be in a different mounting bracket that will set it on the second pulley channel and let the power steering belt be put on closest to the engine. Any suggestions? Thank you for finding the diagram Warthog, it would appear to thicken the plot but perhaps get me closer to the correct belt pattern. Let me ask you something though, does your power steering pump pulley have a larger diameter chanel on the outside, or on the inside (closer to the engine). That would tell me if I have the pulley backwards. Beyond that, I am going to take a picture from the side to show how the belts currently line up like the m1010 diagram. As difficult as this is, I'm having fun working on a military truck. Always wanted to be a sniper or heavy mobile but asthma put me out of meps... Didn't see the point in lying on paper becuase it is triggered by activity and it sometimes gets bad. Thats pretty much an altogether different topic. Sorry.

Nick
 

badassissimo

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Ok, here are some pictures to explain further where I am at on this. Also, what is part in picture 0022? I don't know what it is. I think it is a cover for the electrical jumper cable to go between other vehicles. Not sure and it's a guess at that. I've seen 0, 1, and 2 on pictures of other cucv trucks and I don't know how necessary they are or aren't. Please let me know your thoughts on the belts.
 

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