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alternator mounting pictures.

badassissimo

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It's been a long day of tinkering... I got the radiator flushed, the front and back axle remounted, the spindle primed with high pressure grease, the rust off these moving parts, the alternators mounted, the pulleys mounted (hopefully correctly), and I would have got the radiator support off if two bolts in the front weren't seized. I tried drilling and killed 4 bits. Couldn't get one off so I figure the other will burn through the rest of the 48 bits. If i can get enough charge in the batteries, I'll drive it the mile to the repair shop to have the bolts burned off and replaced. Just gotta reconnect the wiring harness at the firwall and throw some lights on so I don't get pulled over. Gonna get the license plate off my c10 to make it look street legal and registered for at least that amount of time.

Can anyone tell me what the thing in picture 0022 is? Thanks.

Nick.
 

badassissimo

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Is there a way to be positive of the difference between a hmmv and a 6.2l diesel? It looks like all the 6.2 l diesels I've seen on the internet. THe m1010 has a channel for the compressor to go through. Would that maybe be the problem? A m1010 motor, pulleys, and brackets? This situation is getting confusing. I realized last night that I will need a pulley for the water pump because with two different sized diameter channels, the belt on the larger diameter will try to move the pulley faster. Or at least, thats what I think will happen. Oreillys said it would be ok.

Nick
 

Warthog

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The 6.2L engine was used in the CUCV and the HMMWVs the base engine is the same for all practical purposes.

I think the issue you are having is the crankshaft and the water pump pullies are from a M11010 and not the M1008 and M1009. Your pictures show you have the correct alternator and P/S brackets.

The M1010 had the alternators on the passenger side and the A/C compressor on the drivers side.

Your GEN1 is in the wrong place for these pullies. You will never find the correct belt without a trial and error fitting (as you have found out).

If you look closely you will see each of the pullies have a smaller grove for the power steering belt.

Looking in the -34 manual, there are two different pullies listed for the crankshaft and water pump.

I would find the correct pullies and start over.

Here are some pics of a couple of parts trucks I have. The GEN1 has been removed so the belt doesn't look correct.
 

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badassissimo

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The 6.2L engine was used in the CUCV and the HMMWVs the base engine is the same for all practical purposes.

I think the issue you are having is the crankshaft and the water pump pullies are from a M11010 and not the M1008 and M1009. Your pictures show you have the correct alternator and P/S brackets.

The M1010 had the alternators on the passenger side and the A/C compressor on the drivers side.

Your GEN1 is in the wrong place for these pullies. You will never find the correct belt without a trial and error fitting (as you have found out).

If you look closely you will see each of the pullies have a smaller grove for the power steering belt.

Looking in the -34 manual, there are two different pullies listed for the crankshaft and water pump.

I would find the correct pullies and start over.

Here are some pics of a couple of parts trucks I have. The GEN1 has been removed so the belt doesn't look correct.
I will have to see about the pullies. I'm glad you caught that. I had no idea. At least everything is pulled off the engine and I still have the casings for the belts from Oreillys since I'll be there before too long. I'll see if I can't find the TM on here and find a part number for that pulley. Any idea on the size it is in case Oreillys has an aftermarket?
 

Warthog

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Contact HAWKMAN here on steelsoldiers. I know he has parted out some CUCVs and may have the proper pullies. You will not find them at a junk yard unless they have a CUCV. Civvy pullies are different.

I could loan you my spares until you find some. I have future plans for them.
 

hovenga67

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I just thought of the hmmv stuff because all of them I have seen had more belt spots on the pulley than the standard cucv. Any ways you should have three.
Brent
 

Warthog

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..... I'll see if I can't find the TM on here and find a part number for that pulley. Any idea on the size it is in case Oreillys has an aftermarket?
The part numbers are listed in the TM 9-2320-289-34p manual.

You can find it a couple of ways.

1. Click the RESOURCES link at the top of the page . Then choose TECHNICAL MANUALS. That will take you to the Old website where all the manuals are. Page thru the listings until you find the TM 9-2320-289-xx manuals. Download each one of the 289 series manuals.

2. Go to the CUCV Forum. Click the CUCV FAQ Article (CUCV Wiki) at the top of the page. From there all the manuals are linked for downloading. Download them all and read, read, read. Cucv Wiki - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

FYI - any manual that ends in "p" is a parts diagram for that item.
 
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Warthog

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I just thought of the hmmv stuff because all of them I have seen had more belt spots on the pulley than the standard cucv. Any ways you should have three.
Brent

You are correct about the HMMWVs. They do have more belt grooves than the CUCVs. The HMMWVs I have seen (not many) have used an Electric Energized waterpump pully/fan clutch.
 

badassissimo

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Contact HAWKMAN here on steelsoldiers. I know he has parted out some CUCVs and may have the proper pullies. You will not find them at a junk yard unless they have a CUCV. Civvy pullies are different.

I could loan you my spares until you find some. I have future plans for them.
Will do. Found two others parting out in the classifieds. Do you think a water pump pulley off a 350 would work? Someone parting out a totaled 2500 but is a gas 350. Either way, I'm going to go try to find that TM and download it. It helped me before my harddrive crashed last time and it should do the same after I download all those megabytes again. lol.

Since we are talking about hmmwv, Do the engine mounting brackets fit the same? I had started coming up with ideas for an engine replacement with like a DD or maybe cummins but a crate engine out of the gov auctions would be cheaper, have less use, and maybe fit directly in place of this engine when the time comes.

Nick
 

badassissimo

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Iowa, la
Alrighty, that didn't get done quickly at all... lol.

I finally got a chance to look at the wiring with the F-9 diagram today and I think I might have found where I went wrong. I circled a suppressor ground on the diagram because I don't have a wire for it and am not sure if it is important. I'm charging the battery now to see about starting the truck. I'll know more about charging when it works. As far as the dash wiring, nothing lit up again but I guess I'll find out when the truck starts because sometimes it won't start if the connections aren't lining up on the fuse box. I figure that may be the problem too but won't know too much until the truck starts again. Let me know about the supporessor ground wire though. It's currently connected to the engine wiring harness block only.
 

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Warthog

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The suppressor is not required. It only used for the Military radios.

Some alternators still have it installed but most have been removed.
 

badassissimo

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Alright, been messing with the truck for awhile to get it right. I've been making sure I have everything just like the diagram. I tried starting the truck today because one batter read 12v and the other 8. Unfortunately, the 8 drained immediately and its charging now. Hope the cells arent blown or something. While I did that, I noticed the Gen1 light came on while I was working on it. This was while the wait light was on. Should it be on? I can't remember. Gen 2 light was off. I was trying to trace some wires and see if there was a connection problem because in the past, the control wire to the starter had a very bad connection and I had to play with the firewall to make the truck start. The gen1 light turned off. I'm confused if the truck is working properly or not. The battery charge guage on the gauge cluster still didnt move anyway. Not sure if it was supposed to. I'm going to connect it to a battery to see if anything happens. I have an aftermarket to replace it either way. There were only two wires connected. Should there be three? Gen1, 2, and ground? Please let me know about these things. Thanks.

Step 2. If the gen light was supposed to be on before run, I'm going to assume the connections are only worse and I want to rewire the truck to avoid sorting a haystack. Anyone want to help me draw up a diagram that skips the firewall, fuse box, and guage cluster but adds back fuses and lights where appropriate for function? Hopefully it isnt needed. Thanks.
 

badassissimo

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Found another wire that needs repacing. It's one of the fused wires so I'm going to try splicing it and see if that is all it needs.

I have good news about my battery, it charged well and didnt drain completely. It read 10.4. With any luck I can get it to start today.
 
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