LED interior lighting?

[TexAndy]

Ok, I've seen plenty of talk about LED headlights and tail lights... but how about interior lighting?

What I'm thinking about going for is some dim red LEDs for low-level interior lighting. Just enough to see what I'm doing if I need to rummage for something on the passenger seat or the floor but low enough to preserve night vision.

SE4811 LED, red | Alltronics

I have no idea if that's what I should get, but most of these LEDs are dirt cheap so I'm not averse to buying several types to see the difference.

Sadly, they don't seem to list the operating voltage for many of these diodes...

Anyone else done something like this?

http://www.alltronics.com/cgi-bin/item/SE5011/31/SE5011-LED,-Red

Ok, these are listed as T1-3/4 which I found a data sheet for on another website. here http://www.lc-led.com/products/q500jpf4df.html

So six of those wired in series would have a minimum operating voltage of 12.6V and a max operating voltage of 14.4V which should be just about right to run off of one battery, correct?

 

[cranetruck]

Have a strip with about 45 red LEDs already assembled for 12 VDC. Used it for dash illumination experiments. Still in good working condition. Made for aircraft use. Strip is about 36 inches long.
Yours for $20, shipping included...

 

[TexAndy]

Wow, thanks. You've got my attention... Could you get a better close up of the directions, please? I was curious about the part that talked about dimming, just in case it's too bright.

About how bright would you categorize it?

 

[cranetruck]

If you right click on the image and "Open link in new window", you get the needed res. If not, here is a close-up.
Without a dimmer, they are very bright...dim to barely visible.

 

[TexAndy]

PM sent.

As far as dimming goes, I'd just wire a 5k ohm pot between my 12V source and the light strip, right?

For location, maybe affixing it to one of the tube cross members of the cab top...

 

[cranetruck]

Thanks! And correct on the wiring of the pot.
Can be installed anywhere you need illumination and have 12VDC handy.

http://dealnay.com/764744/pilot-lig...boat-interior-cabin-cockpit-led-lighting.html

 

[TexAndy]

ok, as far as a 12V dc supply goes, I was considering:

Wiring one of the batteries to a terminal block and adding a battery equalizer to the mix to prevent overcharging or undercharging of either battery by the alternator. However, what I'm not sure of is how precise that 12V figure has to be. Typically, my deuce batts are pushing 'lectricity at 13.2V - 13.5V

So if I try to charge a cell phone or run one of these light strips off that 13.5V am I going to have a problem? How sensitive is, say, a Garmin GPS or a cell phone or one of these light strips to being operated at anything higher than 12V?

OR I could get a 24V to 12V DC converter. That would be the most reliable source of power, I'm sure. But I hear those are a bit expensive. And I'd already planned to get one of those battery equalizers anyways, simply for peace of mind and extending my battery life as much as possible.

Thoughts?

 

[cranetruck]

The LED strip draws less than 1/10 of an amp total. I wouldn't worry about unbalancing the battery load at this. However, it's always a good idea to charge each battery separately after a drive to get them back to near equal condition, which is what you want when using them in series for starting and charging with the on-board 24 volt charger.

Also, the 12VDC is a nominal figure, the strip can easily handle the charging voltage (13-14 volts).

 

[sewerzuk]

ok, as far as a 12V dc supply goes, I was considering:

Wiring one of the batteries to a terminal block and adding a battery equalizer to the mix to prevent overcharging or undercharging of either battery by the alternator. However, what I'm not sure of is how precise that 12V figure has to be. Typically, my deuce batts are pushing 'lectricity at 13.2V - 13.5V

So if I try to charge a cell phone or run one of these light strips off that 13.5V am I going to have a problem? How sensitive is, say, a Garmin GPS or a cell phone or one of these light strips to being operated at anything higher than 12V?

OR I could get a 24V to 12V DC converter. That would be the most reliable source of power, I'm sure. But I hear those are a bit expensive. And I'd already planned to get one of those battery equalizers anyways, simply for peace of mind and extending my battery life as much as possible.

Thoughts?

Your voltage is right in the range of a "normal" 12v system; if it makes you feel better, take the voltage off of a battery in a passenger car/truck while it is running. It will also be in the 13.4-13.8 volt range.

My battery equalizer in my deuce works perfectly; I use it to supply a small fuse box that I plugged all of my 12v systems into. I run several LED lights off of it, and my Garmin Nuvi 750 out of a 12v plug I installed in my dash.

 

[Jones]

I picked up one of these dimmers on ebay. Mine works like a charm.
You'll run your GPS and cell phones off their car chargers or adapters. That way the unit gets the voltage it wants.

 

[Trango]

I bought some big 4" or 5" or 6" diameter 12 or 24 v LED backup lights. I honestly can't remember the voltage. I almost think they're 24v, in memory.

They didn't light for much in the back of the truck, so I made some brackets (I cut the big hole out with the lathe) and put them on the vertical supports, behind the heads of driver/passenger.

I know, I wish I had a picture, but wired up to a switch on the dash, and it works great.

 

[TexAndy]

Wow, that's a pretty good idea.

I'm going to try just this big one of CT's on the horizontal support, first.

And yeah, I'd love to see pics of your setup.

 

[bratpackdad]

I just bought some 24v work lights. But, after reading this I'm sending them back for LED's.

 

[TexAndy]

Wired her up with 5 amp fuse at the battery, switch, and 5k ohm pot. It works!

For mounting, I think I'm going to use my cnc to cut mounting positions for the pot and the switch in a piece of plywood and then bolt that to the tub where there's already a hole.

The diagram on the pot was confusing as heck, tho. Took me a couple tries to get it wired up properly.

Many thanks to CT for the good deal on the LED strip.

 

[Darwin T]

just put the see through red or green dash light covers on the instrunment panel. it works great. i use green for the clusher and red for high beams and low air warning. and you keep your night vision.

 

[cranetruck]

Wired her up with 5 amp fuse at the battery, switch, and 5k ohm pot. It works!

For mounting, I think I'm going to use my cnc to cut mounting positions for the pot and the switch in a piece of plywood and then bolt that to the tub where there's already a hole.

The diagram on the pot was confusing as heck, tho. Took me a couple tries to get it wired up properly.

Many thanks to CT for the good deal on the LED strip.

Glad it worked out.