I will be trying for an M101A2 trailer before winter. I won't have tags to tow it home. My only trailer at this time is a 5x8 open trailer with 3,500# axle. If I go to pick up the M101A2, with a good jack and a good come-along, heavy duty straps, and tools, would I be able to somehow get it up on the 5x8 trailer? Maybe remove the wheels? Am I being crazy? I have not been able to look at an M101A2 in person. Any thoughts, suggestions, wild ideas considered. Thanks. H in CT
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Hauling an M101A2...how?
- Thread starter Milbikes
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Tow it home! Have the invoice signed and dated at GL. Explain to the officer should you get pulled over that GL makes it near impossible to get paperwork at the same time as the trailer. I seriously doubt that you will get stopped.
XanRa
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tow it home
Josh
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Don't single axle trailers that weighless then 2000lbs not require a plate?
6x6guy
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If not towing it home is a option, just flip the trailer on to yours upside down and strap it down on your trailer. Due to electrical voltages and adapting the plug from your vehicle to the trailer- it would be safe to assume it would take a little planning to rewire the unit with
your vehicles electrical system, and another factor would be the vehicle would have enough
weight and braking capacity to stop the trailer in a emergency maneuver situation.
It's your call, good luck.
your vehicles electrical system, and another factor would be the vehicle would have enough
weight and braking capacity to stop the trailer in a emergency maneuver situation.
It's your call, good luck.
pamudbusters
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Take your plate off the 5x8 and go to walmart and buy a magnetic light kit that you can plug into your tow rig.
TOW IT HOME!!
TOW IT HOME!!
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I bought one not long ago. In AK trailers have to be registered, but I took the chance. With a bill of sale dated the same day, chances are you'll be fine. Personally I wouldn't tow it after the initial recovery unless it's tagged, but that's just me.
I changed bulbs on site at the GL lot, I had a pintle hitch on my 2500 already, and I had my NATO to 4 pin adaptor tested and ready as well. I was also prepared to air up tires, but mine didnt need it. It's about a 10 min job to change out 24v for 12v bulbs then check all your lights. Sure, you could probably roll with 24v bulbs, but in bright daylight they're so dim My opinion is that it's an unnecessary safety hazard.
I changed bulbs on site at the GL lot, I had a pintle hitch on my 2500 already, and I had my NATO to 4 pin adaptor tested and ready as well. I was also prepared to air up tires, but mine didnt need it. It's about a 10 min job to change out 24v for 12v bulbs then check all your lights. Sure, you could probably roll with 24v bulbs, but in bright daylight they're so dim My opinion is that it's an unnecessary safety hazard.
pamudbusters
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If the trailer comes out of there like wherever my Genset did, it wont have any bulbs. Maybe even a couple of other things will be missing as well like my Genset did. lol
ralbelt
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I towed mine home from Dogheads, after he most graciously picked it up and stored it for me, he is up near Ft. Drum. It towed like a dream at 70mph with full cover on. Tow vehicle was Ford E250 van.
You will need a set of lights, 3-4 feet of chain to extend the safety chains with bolts, duct tape or zip ties to secure wires, and a pintle hook.
I'm in R.I. if you want to come by and see one up close and in person and can take it for a tow. I'll be in FL next 4-5 days, but will be available after that.
You will need a set of lights, 3-4 feet of chain to extend the safety chains with bolts, duct tape or zip ties to secure wires, and a pintle hook.
I'm in R.I. if you want to come by and see one up close and in person and can take it for a tow. I'll be in FL next 4-5 days, but will be available after that.
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If you were going to tow a newly acquired m101a2 home from a GL site what should you check out on the trailer before a 4 hour tow trip? If you are towing it with an m1009 would you just hook it up to the pintel and plug in the lights and go? What size safety chain would be needed?
Take along a spare tire and jack and check the wheel bearings. The trailer will already hve safety chains attached to it. Also buy one of those magnetic light kits that you can wire into th 12 volts on on your truck to have as a back-up
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I've only had plates on one trailer ever. That was a brand new 18 foot car trailer. Every other trailer I have just towed. If you stay in the right lanes, don't speed and don't cause problems odds of never getting stopped are pretty good.
Of course this is in CA, your laws/law enforcement may be different. Your mileage may vary, etc, etc.
Of course this is in CA, your laws/law enforcement may be different. Your mileage may vary, etc, etc.
TIGERFANS2
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Unfortunately when using a receiver hitch the stock chains (at least on my A1 & A2) aren't long enough to reach.
I bought the high dollar Harbor Freight (9.99 on sale) magnetic lights. Scraped the paper covering off the magnets (to get that tiny extra bit of grab) and zip tied them too. They didn't fall off from either Oklahoma City or Norman to Topeka.
HiLift jacks come in handy too if one doesn't have a helper.
K9Vic
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When ever my EUC clears I will be getting my M101A2 from Hooks Texas with my M1009. Everything posted above I plan to do on my trip, but I will be bringing two tires & wheels with me. I have used the Harbor Freight trailer lights in the past to two my M1009 with a M1028, works great and did not fall off. I will also bring grease and replacement bearings & seals just in case. Then of course all the tools I may need to work on it. Trip is about 4 hours one-way, so I probably will do it in two days just so I am not tired on the way back if I have to do any work on the trailer.
Chief_919
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Just tow it with your bill of sale- but be safe and smart about it. Make sure you take an extra copy of your paid in full invoice and have the GL rep sign and date your copy so you have it.
If you are towing with an MV, just make sure you have spare bulbs, hook it up and go. If you have never hooked up to your trailer plug before inspect it, make sure it is in good shape, and verify it has voltage at the proper terminals. A light coat of grease around the outside will help stubborn plugs go in.
If not towing with an MV get some magnetic lights. HF ones are cheap and don't stick well, and are often miswired, but are cheap. Northern Tool sells a great set that works well and lasts- if you plan to use them more than once buy the good Northern Tool set that comes in the black plastic case, but replace that stupid 4-round plug with whatever is on your tow vehicle. The Northern lighst stay on with the magnets, if you get the HF ones zip tie them down the magnets suck.
Take a spare tire (unless your tow vehicle spare fits), jack that works with it, proper lug wrench, some 1.5 foot length chain legs with adjustable links to extend your safety chains if needed.
Jack it up at GL and spin each wheel and make sure that the wheel bearings feel smooth. Grab the top of the wheel and pull/push and make sure that there is no play in the wheel bearings.
Verify your lugnuts are tight.
After you leave the lot, go slow the first few miles, get out and feel the wheel bearings. A few slow miles shouldn't have any noticable heat. If they pass that test, go about 5-10 at speed and repeat- slightly warm is OK, hot means problems.
Know the civilian part numbers for the wheel bearings in case you have to stop and buy some at a mminimum- even better have a set on hand.
If you are towing with an MV, just make sure you have spare bulbs, hook it up and go. If you have never hooked up to your trailer plug before inspect it, make sure it is in good shape, and verify it has voltage at the proper terminals. A light coat of grease around the outside will help stubborn plugs go in.
If not towing with an MV get some magnetic lights. HF ones are cheap and don't stick well, and are often miswired, but are cheap. Northern Tool sells a great set that works well and lasts- if you plan to use them more than once buy the good Northern Tool set that comes in the black plastic case, but replace that stupid 4-round plug with whatever is on your tow vehicle. The Northern lighst stay on with the magnets, if you get the HF ones zip tie them down the magnets suck.
Take a spare tire (unless your tow vehicle spare fits), jack that works with it, proper lug wrench, some 1.5 foot length chain legs with adjustable links to extend your safety chains if needed.
Jack it up at GL and spin each wheel and make sure that the wheel bearings feel smooth. Grab the top of the wheel and pull/push and make sure that there is no play in the wheel bearings.
Verify your lugnuts are tight.
After you leave the lot, go slow the first few miles, get out and feel the wheel bearings. A few slow miles shouldn't have any noticable heat. If they pass that test, go about 5-10 at speed and repeat- slightly warm is OK, hot means problems.
Know the civilian part numbers for the wheel bearings in case you have to stop and buy some at a mminimum- even better have a set on hand.
I used HF magnetic lights.
I took a hi-lift (farm) jack.
All the 101A2 trailers I've seen were in good shape, but the tires were ALL old and cracked, some very badly.
Most had working surge brakes and hand brakes.
I used 8 lug GM truck wheels as spares. I had to change both on one trailer.
I believe in this state you have 30 days to register a vehicle. The trailer should be covered by the towing vehicle's insurance policy. I am not a lawyer so check this in your area. Call your state police and ask them.
If the trailer has surge brakes make sure you tow it close to level. If it leans forward it might ride the brakes.
Once you get it hooked up you should pull it a short distance, a mile or two, maybe, and stop and check everything again. When I stop to check or stop for fuel I like to feel the hub centers around the bearings. If they are hot, find out why. Note that the brake drums might get hot, so if the whole drum is hot it won't tell you anything but if the outer drum is cool and the middle is hot you might have bearing trouble.
I took a hi-lift (farm) jack.
All the 101A2 trailers I've seen were in good shape, but the tires were ALL old and cracked, some very badly.
Most had working surge brakes and hand brakes.
I used 8 lug GM truck wheels as spares. I had to change both on one trailer.
I believe in this state you have 30 days to register a vehicle. The trailer should be covered by the towing vehicle's insurance policy. I am not a lawyer so check this in your area. Call your state police and ask them.
If the trailer has surge brakes make sure you tow it close to level. If it leans forward it might ride the brakes.
Once you get it hooked up you should pull it a short distance, a mile or two, maybe, and stop and check everything again. When I stop to check or stop for fuel I like to feel the hub centers around the bearings. If they are hot, find out why. Note that the brake drums might get hot, so if the whole drum is hot it won't tell you anything but if the outer drum is cool and the middle is hot you might have bearing trouble.
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3 things, one Chief talked about.
1) If towing with an MV I carry a can of silicone spray to spray the plugs down, some won't go in without it. Chief 919 mentioned this, I threw in the silicone spray idea.
2) If doing above, check bulbs for proper voltage. I've found plenty of 3/4 tons with 24V bulbs. I carry a spare set of 12V ones in my burb and Oh-8 all the time.
3) Surge brakes. If the brakes don't work right or it has excessive play, you can lock it out with a 3/8x4" bolt and nut. There is a hole in the surge coupler that the bolt goes through to lock out the brakes if backing up an incline.
1) If towing with an MV I carry a can of silicone spray to spray the plugs down, some won't go in without it. Chief 919 mentioned this, I threw in the silicone spray idea.
2) If doing above, check bulbs for proper voltage. I've found plenty of 3/4 tons with 24V bulbs. I carry a spare set of 12V ones in my burb and Oh-8 all the time.
3) Surge brakes. If the brakes don't work right or it has excessive play, you can lock it out with a 3/8x4" bolt and nut. There is a hole in the surge coupler that the bolt goes through to lock out the brakes if backing up an incline.
TucsonVTXF
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I towed mine home. before i left went by MVD with my paid in full invoice and got a 90 day temp transportation tag for 15.00 bought a 8 lug chevy rim for 40.00 and my local tire shop threw on a used but good tire for free i just had to throw the tech a few bucks for mounting it. i wired up an adaptor plug from a 7 pin rv connector to the millitary connector that the trailer plugs into ( you can buy them from surplus places) set up a pintel hitch set up with my light adaptor attached. I bought the 12volt bulbs that i would need to convert the lights.. borrowed a air tank ro fill up the tires when i get to the trailer.... you will have 90 days to plan the trip if this is your first purchase............
cjcottrill
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I've seen replys from several States and know each State is different, but in Ohio you can tow a trailer without tags to a weigh station because it must be officially weighed before it can be registered. I always carry the bill of sale and weigh slip with me. I have gone to the DMV with the bill of sale and have been issued a 30 day tag, especially handy if traveling across state lines. If you are stopped for any reason or are involved in an accident of any type (ie: being rear-ended by someone not watching) the citation is yours to deal with. It could cost more than the trailer. Think it through - then do whats best for you. Just my 
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