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Rear receiver mount question

FLINT

New member
78
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0
Location
Western VA mtns.
I want to keep the pintle hitch on my m1028, as I eventually intend on getting a 101A2 trailer, but I also want to add a regular 2" receiver as I will need it for hauling other trailers and things.

My original intention was to either simply weld a 2" receiver tube directly onto the bottom of that big flat plate under the pintle hitch or to bolt and or weld one of those bumper mount receiver hitch jobs that has the 2" receiver already welded to a short plate with bolt holes.

Then I did some searches on here, and there was a lot of talk about a setup like that being limited to not a lot of weight - because its just bumper mounted, and for towing anything over 3000 pounds there were recommendations for anchoring the receiver setup to the frame.

However, I looked under the truck and that 3/8" plate under the pintle seems to be very securely anchored to the frame. If I were to fabricate a mount for a receiver to attach to the frame, I don't think I would be making anything stronger than the way that plate is already connected.

Maybe all the posts I read were more specific for the m1009s which may have a different rear bumper/pintle setup??????

Anyways, I'm thinking of going ahead with mounting a tube right to the bottom of that plate, unless someone can convince me WHY exactly that isn't a strong mounting point. I don't think the bumper mount argument is a good one for the m1008/m1028 trucks as I think there are a lot of extra mounting points and reinforcements under there than on a normal truck bumper. I won't ever be towing anything huge like a camper trailer or anything, probably the heaviest thing I would ever tow would be another truck on a tow dolly.

Thanks
 

armytruck63

Active member
1,663
10
38
Location
Redlands, CA
I switched to military pintle hook to one of those combination pintle hooks that incorporates a 2-inch ball. You loose the swivel feature doing this, but the M416 trailer I have has its own swivel. I used all grade-8 hardware when mounting the hitch.

I haul a small car trailer with my Mule or a jeep on it. This is about the maximum I feel safe hauling with this setup. The gearing of the M1009 prevents it from being a great tow vehicle.
 

3dubs

New member
424
2
0
Location
Houston, TX
I have the pintle/ball combo and the original pintle. Then I have wrenches and sockets. I drive off road so I need the swivel. I have unbolting one and bolting the other down pat. I was going to add a receiver but I just change out the hitch instead.
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
905
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Location
Evart,Michigan
I did as you said you were going to do ! I cut the center section of a reese hitch out its about 12 inches wide and welded it to the bottom of the bumper like you stated with the receiver just past the edge of bumper then took 1 1/2 inch sqaure stock and went from the ends of the reciever to the front of the frame mounts nice and solid. Haul a 25 foot car trailer with my mud truck and extra tires, fuel ,tools ,compresor and water tank with power washer with no problems. will take pics and post if you like!
 
Last edited:

lavarok

Well-known member
1,119
33
48
Location
Fellsmere, FL
... one of those bumper mount receiver hitch jobs that has the 2" receiver already welded to a short plate with bolt holes.
This worked for me on my M1008. After inspecting how the bumper and related assembly is mounted to the frame, I believe there is plenty of strength in the metal plate below the stock pintle assembly.

The fleetside bumper for the c/k model trucks of the mid 80s is typically rated for 800 lbs of tongue weight and 8000 lbs of trailer weight.
 

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MILLMAN37

New member
7
0
1
Location
Shelbyville, Indiana
I was thinking of an ACME class IV hitch and just cutting the bracing for the pintle so they would still touch the front of the hitch. Then once the hitch is mounted to the frame weld the pintle brackets to the front of the receiver hitch. Maybe my thinking is wrong.(wouldn't be the first time). What do you guys think?
 
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