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My New M37

armytruck63

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Though I've seen the plugs installed both ways, I believe concave side out ) is correct. You want pressure building up from ice to push the plugs out. If the plugs were installed concave side facing the block (, pressure from the ice would tend to wedge the plug in more tightly against the sides of the holes. You don't want that to happen.

Anyone with more experience, please chime in. You might want to call an auto or truck repair business in the area and ask them. Being in Minnesota, I'm sure they've had to do this job before.
 

dcbrown

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Reply to your question

You had asked about my gun mount maker on another post. My computer crashed and I couldn't reply at the time. But, I found this post and wanted to make sure that if you still need the info, just write me. He's a great guy, great quality, and great price!!
 

STSCSS

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Well, waiting for the new brake line from fed hill. Going to try that cupronickel line and reuse the armor off my old brake line. I will post the results and pictures’ when I get the kit in this Tuesday. Since I bought two more 37's (for my other boy and daughter) this should make the job of relining easier since this stuff will also work for the fuel lines.
Has anybody else tried fed hills stuff? http://www.fedhillusa.com/http://www.fedhillusa.com/
 

STSCSS

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well the new kit is in and I cant wait to work on the brake lines. the only problem is that now all the brake lines are leaking now what?
 

cyberspace_7

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Albert Lea, Minnesota
Ahhhh the joys of nickle and dime MV restorations...Congrats on the auction win! A buddy informed me of the auction but I was busy that weekend and had no money. Glad they all went to SS members though...:beer:
 

STSCSS

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Frost plug work started and very straight forward. Here are some pics and yes it was nasty crud comming out. Pulled about 1/4 of a cup of crud out so far. the back lower plug entails removal of both the starter and the dristubutor. so that is going to be really fun. (Side note disconnect battery before removing starter)
 

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STSCSS

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Went down today to turn on the heat and discovered that there was more crud flowing out of the frost plug hole! any tips on flushing?
 

Oldfart

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Centennial,CO
I have used a rubber hose (about 5/16 inch) attached to the end of a garden hose to direct water back around the cylinders and help flush the sediment out the freeze plug holes. The type of plug you show in your photos is the kind that you insert in the block to the shoulder and then tap the center of the plug with a hammer to drive the edges of the plug to seal to the block. The other type of plug is cup shaped and it is driven in the block using something like a seal driver or socket that pushes inside the cup. Stop inserting that plug when the edges become flush with the block.
 

Karl kostman

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I would like to give a huge congrats on the new 37, you have an extremely nice starting point with this truck and the 37 is small enough that you can darned near use it for a daily driver. A good source of parts in MN is John Byzal he seems to have some very nice stuff and prices seem to be good, he owns Midwest Military. My FIRST MV was a 52 M-37 and darn that was a nice vehicle and seriously about 1/2 as loud to drive as a Deuce is, I have and always will have a soft spot in my heart for the M-37 and yours looks darned nice, the brake issues you are having I already went through with mine but just remember when you are done thats is it and now you can start to enjoy the fruits of your labor, Congrats once again that looks to be a very nice aquisition!
KK
 

STSCSS

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Thank you for the tips. As you can see by the enclosed photo a couple more 37's "strayed" into my yard this past summer and so I will be becomming quite familar with the truck. My lovely wife though understanding says I need a bigger shed.
 

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Karl kostman

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Never argue with the wife when she comes up with an idea as GOOD as that one, there is nothing but good things to come in making her happy! Do I see MORE M-37 in you future?? I do believe you need to put something in that shed with all the new room you are going to have!!!!! That is a good thing!
KK
 

STSCSS

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Well getting to the second plug is a pita I have to remove the starter and in place you only get about 1/6 th a turn each time on the top nut. I guess going slow is better than a frozen nut
 

cyberspace_7

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Albert Lea, Minnesota
As you can see by the enclosed photo a couple more 37's "strayed" into my yard this past summer...
If you can't find a big enough shed, feel free to permanently store one in my garage! I'll even drive it for you and maintain...:-D:wink::grin:...heck might as well put it in my name...[thumbzup]
 

Oldfart

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Well getting to the second plug is a pita I have to remove the starter and in place you only get about 1/6 th a turn each time on the top nut. I guess going slow is better than a frozen nut

Its been a while since I pulled a starter in an M37, but as I recall, it gets easier if you pull the transmission hump cover. My son just replaced his M37 starter and he uses a long snaky u-joint extension on his 3/8ths drive (The reason he owes his soul and lots of money to the Snap-On man.)

I forgot to mention earlier that the best way to remove one of those freeze plugs is to drive a punch or big screwdriver through the plug and then pry it out of the hole. Careful you don't drive to deeply through the plug and damage the block behind the plug. Yours look rotten enough to require something like vise grips to grab the residue to twist everything out of the hole.
 

STSCSS

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The plugs are more rotten than that congressman from new York ! I can get to the bottom nut ok it's the top one that is being a pain on he starter the other good thing about doing this now is that I can now put back in the slave cables that was removed in the past. From what it looks like the positive end gets hooked up to the starter if I am correct.
 

Oldfart

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The plugs are more rotten than that congressman from new York ! I can get to the bottom nut OK it's the top one that is being a pain on he starter the other good thing about doing this now is that I can now put back in the slave cables that was removed in the past. From what it looks like the positive end gets hooked up to the starter if I am correct.
Roger the pita top nut. It is a question on more trouble to pull the transmission hump cover to reach the nut from the inside or just go ahead and worry the nut off a bit at a time. I actually have a flex 3/8ths extension like a speedometer cable that helps with stuff like that (sometimes).

The truck is negative ground so the slave cable connection would go to the same terminal on the starter as the positive cable to the battery. I have seen some M37's with the slave cable connector wired directly to the positive in the battery box, but I suspicion that was done after the trucks military career.
 
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