Newbie Seeking Help - Leaks

[clinto]

I am going to check the dip stick and remove the radiator cap and take a look to see if there is any cross-contamination, but if there is, what could be the cause? Also, you think I can safely drive to look for leaks without doing any damage?

Cause (if it is cross contamination):

Bad head gasket
Internally leaking oil cooler
Cracked head(s)/block/cylinder liner


Safely drive:

Hard to say. If it were me, I would not risk it. But that's easy for me to say, we have multiple deuces and towbars in our motorpool. You may not be so lucky.

I think you said it's a mile and a half-I'd risk it.

i really think you have a radiator leak.... the greenish tint to the oil pan ect. tells me that it might be blowing onto the fan, check for leaks there too.

This is quite possible.

 

[deathrowdave]

Check head gasket right rear of engine . Allow engine to get to operating temp. and check between head and block !!!!

 

[WillWagner]

ALL leaks end up at the oil pan. Start looking high first. The clean spot will be the source of an oil or fuel leak. Coolant leaks happen alot on cold engines. Go out early AM and raise the hood and have a look see. The 1 3/4 huses from the heads to the aftrecooler have a tendancy to leak first/worse than the other hoses.

 

[DeuceDad]

Follow Up

Well, after reading a number of post with good recommendations, I looked under the hood, specifically at the hoses and I think I found the culprit. I tightened all clamps, checked coolant level at radiator cap, good and full; fired her up and no coolant leaks. I also tried to figure out how to get a wrench on that little oil hose, but I can see that thing is going to be a booger. Do I loosen straight of the block or disconnect the swagged fitting from the fitting screwed into the block at the top end of the hose line? The bottom is not going to be difficult, it is the top end.

Any recommendations where I can get a new one made? How about replacing it with a braided line?

Suggestions?

 

[Warthog]

Well, after reading a number of post with good recommendations, I looked under the hood, specifically at the hoses and I think I found the culprit. I tightened all clamps, checked coolant level at radiator cap, good and full; fired her up and no coolant leaks. I also tried to figure out how to get a wrench on that little oil hose, but I can see that thing is going to be a booger. Do I loosen straight of the block or disconnect the swagged fitting from the fitting screwed into the block at the top end of the hose line? The bottom is not going to be difficult, it is the top end.

Any recommendations where I can get a new one made? How about replacing it with a braided line?

Suggestions?

No help with the new hose but the item in the picture without an end is the "slobber tube". It vents the valve covers. Some trucks slobber so much people put an extension hose to drop it below the axle. That helps keep the engine clean.

 

[DeuceDad]

Thanks Warthog

Ahh..haa!! Now I know what a slobber tube is! When I first heard this term I thought someone was messing with me, made me think about how we would send inexperience aircraft mechanics to go find a yard of flight line. I think I will put a hose on it, even though I don't have a problem here.

 

[derby]

I would not remove that oil line until i were shure it was leaking just because of the pita factor. a good hydyaulic shop or farm tractor dealer could make that hose for you. or you could buy one from the many usual suppliers. wash and hose that sucker down and like was mentioned start at the top and work down. check the hose behind the oil filters that one seems to get neglected. while tightening the hose clamps might solve the leak on the short term i would look for bulging,swelling ends cracks and hard hoses those should be replaced. you can over tighten a hose. also check the air compressor base gasket and oil line for leaks that could be dripping down on that Ip oil line.

 

[DeuceDad]

Thanks derby...

I would not remove that oil line until i were shure it was leaking just because of the pita factor. a good hydyaulic shop or farm tractor dealer could make that hose for you. or you could buy one from the many usual suppliers. wash and hose that sucker down and like was mentioned start at the top and work down. check the hose behind the oil filters that one seems to get neglected. while tightening the hose clamps might solve the leak on the short term i would look for bulging,swelling ends cracks and hard hoses those should be replaced. you can over tighten a hose. also check the air compressor base gasket and oil line for leaks that could be dripping down on that Ip oil line.

I looked it all over and found the IP oil hose to be leaking at the lower fitting. How much pressure does this hose handle? I was thinking about replacing it with a braided hose because of the adjacent structure and potential for chaffing, has anyone done that before? What if I can't get the fittings off, you do think I can replace the hose only and install with hose clamps at the existing upper and lower fittings?

 

[gimpyrobb]

To remove hose, Take it off the IP first and then off the fitting on the block. Thats been my experience so far, anyway. I agree with the others, most hydraulic shops or tractor places should be able to build one. I would get one rated too at least 100psi if not 200 for a safety factor. It should only see as much pressure as the motor's oil pump puts out.

No geared hose clamps!

 

[DeuceDad]

Ok Gimpy, I pulled the hose, had a new one made, but the equipment place that made it for me had to do so with a slightly larger diameter higher rated hose (PSI rated at 5,600). Went all over Springfield, MO. and same story, best anyone could do, nothing as small as what I pulled off.

Problem is after MUCH monkeying around with it, I cannot get the new sucker to grab a thread at the IP connector nipple. Thread pattern on the new coupler is correct, but I am thinking there is a slight difference in the thread starting point from the old vs. the new, just enough to keep it from engaging the thread in the coupler and going on. Whoever said this little replacement job was going to be a PITA was all too right!! Any idea where I can get a new replacement OEM stock item for this small hose? The part ID on the marker on the hose reads: 207325-00.

 

[derby]

I would try Sam Winer 330-628-4881 ask for Robert or, Memphis equipment, White Owl, or Saturn surplus. One of them will have it. also be carefull not to cross thread it or the PITA factor will increase!

 

[DeuceDad]

Thanks Derby for the references, I will give them a call tomorrow. I definitely have been cautious to avoid any cross threading!!

 

[deathrowdave]

That hose is a double PITA to replace mine was leaking also !!! I was able to work with stubby wrenches to ease the pain a small amount. I guess you know by now do not tighten the first connected end until you get the second one started.

 

[DeuceDad]

Well a quick update here.... I finally got my replacement hoses today from Memphis Equipment and installed them rather quickly, confirming my opinion there was enough variance in the threads from the hose I had made locally vs. the hoses I got from Memphis. I also replaced the small 7" hose that runs front to back under the IP. Got in her and fired her up, nice to not see oil dripping anymore. If you ever have to replace these hoses, save yourself some time and give John a call at Memphis, the cost plus shipping for these two hoses was only $48.00.