access panels, what is under them....

[steelandcanvas]

i have had my truck from a little over 10 days and i have not driven it further than around town, which i live in a very very small town, so i am trying to learn the ropes.

The operation of the vehicle was not "just to his house".

 

[panshark]

point taken. Now, how about that insulation?

 

[wldrbob]

how about spray on sound supresser under the floor i looked at mine and it would be pretty easy to do

 

[steelandcanvas]

point taken. Now, how about that insulation?

Good idea.
Personally, I wouldn't do any more than put a couple of heavy-duty floormats down and some sound deadner underneath as Wldrbob suggested. As you mentioned, it's not a good idea to trap moisture under the mat, so anything installed should be removeable. I have seen thick rubber mud flaps used as floor mats in tactical vehicles. Unless you're driving extremely long distances, putting alot of money into sound deadning might rate low on the "bang for your buck" scale.

 

[parlusk]

A buddy of mine drove my rig back for me, since then I have put about 5 miles on it and it have not reached a speed higher than 30mph. I have had 5 college finals within the past week and temperature has not risen above 15 degrees for the past two weeks. Because of my business, school and weather I have not had a lot of time to devote to my truck… I have changed the oil put on an adapter kit and worked on some small side projects until the weather breaks and I can put more time into her. I have a Photoionization Detector with built in fid sitting in my floor you want me to mail it out and see if you can figure out its entire functions in two weeks? I understand that breaks can fail, this is not the first time driving big tucks I grew up around coal trucks my whole life, and I cut people dead and alive out of cars/trucks on a regular basis because of stupid moves or faulty equipment. I am not just some average redneck that seen a big purdy truck and thought it would be cool to have; my tuck was purchased for a very specific reason.

 

[parlusk]

A buddy of mine drove my rig back for me, since then I have put about 5 miles on it and it have not reached a speed higher than 30mph. I have had 5 college finals within the past week and temperature has not risen above 15 degrees for the past two weeks. Because of my business, school and weather I have not had a lot of time to devote to my truck… I have changed the oil put on an adapter kit and worked on some small side projects until the weather breaks and I can put more time into her. I have a Photoionization Detector with built in fid sitting in my floor you want me to mail it out and see if you can figure out its entire functions in two weeks? I understand that breaks can fail, this is not the first time driving big tucks I grew up around coal trucks my whole life, and I cut people dead and alive out of cars/trucks on a regular basis because of stupid moves or faulty equipment. I am not just some average redneck that seen a big purdy truck and thought it would be cool to have; my tuck was purchased for a very specific reason.

 

[Westech]

well first of all..... Not bashing you but... why did you not just look under the truck and see? Would have been a lot faster then posting and kinda looking foolish. I think everyone should do a little on there own first and not just post to ask a question for poo's and giggles.

As for the cab I just used some heavy duty rubber mats I got. There were used for people to stand on while at work like a print press or what have you. Cheap and works great. and can be removed to wash out cab. Bed coating would work BUT.. you would NOT want to cover up the bolts and holes in the cab. Doing that will make taking a seat, cover or doing a up grade really a huge PITA. I would stick with something that can be pulled out/removed.

 

[parlusk]

well first of all..... Not bashing you but... why did you not just look under the truck and see? Would have been a lot faster then posting and kinda looking foolish. I think everyone should do a little on there own first and not just post to ask a question for poo's and giggles.

As for the cab I just used some heavy duty rubber mats I got. There were used for people to stand on while at work like a print press or what have you. Cheap and works great. and can be removed to wash out cab. Bed coating would work BUT.. you would NOT want to cover up the bolts and holes in the cab. Doing that will make taking a seat, cover or doing a up grade really a huge PITA. I would stick with something that can be pulled out/removed.

i understand that most people were not trying to bash my post but there are other ways of saying things. i have read through a lot of the manuals but there is a lot to cover. i opened the m/c one up and was knew it went to the breaking system i just wanted to make sure before going a ahead with the project. there has been one day here without snow in the past week so i have been pretty limited.. with that said i have taken the seats out and am going to replace the seats with heated ones as soon as i get the carpet down. i have several rolls of automotive carpet that i will end up putting down.. i have some thin automotive insulation that i was going to put down but when that stuff gets wet it is a mess.. so what i will probably end up doing is putting the carpet down on the floor and back wall the hard cab already has some insulation so i should be able to cut the noise down a little and hold in heat a lot better. i will post a video when i am done. there is one already up showing the seats that are going to be installed.

 

[steelandcanvas]

i have several rolls of automotive carpet that i will end up putting down...

Carpet??

 

[197thhhc]

There is a spray in liner called Lizard Skin that works as a sound deadener and insulation. Alot of custom car builders use it. Very good stuff. Probably right up your alley. I also like your caddy seats. I say do with the truck whatever makes you happy. To me these trucks are like a blank canvas, a starting point.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I'm only going to post this one bladed remark and then move on to something constructive. Parlusk, welcome to the site and I think you have good intentions and an ideal bugout ride but...........perhaps a little more time reading the operators manual on the 13,500# truck you bought instead of making 20MM consoles in the garage prior to it's arrival could have spared you the critisizms.

Now, regardless of how far or haw frequently you drive, the single circuit brake systems requires this level checked every pretrip. Adding a translucent remote reservoir could negate this.

TMs. Many people complain not only about our TM library but about the deuceTMs as well. Most are intimidated as there are no less than 22 PDF TMs for the deuce. Which one should one use? A little explaino of the number will help you. Lets look at TM 9-2320-361-10.
TM is obvious, its a technical manual plain and simple. 2320 means its a tactical wheeled vehicle, has tires! 2330 here would be a trailer. 361 is the series. This is paramount to know. There are several different series for the deuce and when you combine them all into one place it gets busy. Stick with one series to get familiar. The 361 series has the fewest books and the ones I recommend to new users. The 10 on the back is the operators manual. Some trailers end in 12 as well. There are several different suffixes for TMs and I'll cover most right here. -10 operators manual, -20 unit support. These are the manuals for the guys in the unit that work on trucks. Not that comprehensive but cover basic repairs. --20P is the parts book (see the P) for the unit folks. -34 is depot maintenance. These are the folks that rebuild trucks and subsequently is much more descriptive. -34P is the depot parts manual.

Anyone new to the deuce should start with the 361 series, it only has 5 manuals. -10, -20, -20P, -34 and -34P. Know the -10 well, it has a plethora of great basic operational information and should be bedside (and commode side) reading for the deuce enthusiasts regardless of if they own a deuce (yet).

I also refer you back to the "Diablo Build" thread for some real world pics and experience with deuce cab insulation.

Hope this helps someone!

 

[roscoe]

I'd go with the lizard skin stuff over the carpet. The cab isn't too weather/ water proof as your probably finding out. Also makes it easy to clean. Mine is always getting mud or snow or something on the floor. I just sprayed some bedliner on mine so its not so slick - not so much for sound proofing.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Let me add one thing about the holes. I don't recall if you planned on installing air conditioning in the truck but if you don't, I wouldn't be in too much of a hurry to seal up that cab. The holes represent a means of cooling the cab going down the road in the dead of summer.

 

[Westech]

its hotter then a two a%%ed monkey in the summer in a M(whatever) cab.

 

[asgtoolman]

in the cab of my deuce there are two access panels, one is below the gas petal that is on a hinge and only has one bolt securing it shut the other is about a foot behind the shifter which is just a plate with a bunch of screws around the edges holding it down... the reason why i am wanting to know what is under is i am planning on insulating my cab and need to know if i should leave cut outs for these or just cover them... thanks in advanced

To answer your question; I used E Z COOL Automotive insulation for my cab [search "EZ cool insulation" on ebay] two 4'x10' rolls will do all of the floor and firewall and some inside the doors and some on rear wall. IT IS EASY and very friendly for installation and WORKS! [It took me 3 cans of 3M general purpose spray adhesive also] I removed my "transmission hump" pieces and covered the underside of them and covered the top of the floor [which I then covered with removeable mats made of "anti-fatigue" rubber matting [bought from my local hardware supply house] The firewall is covered on the cab side and then painted OD.
I first added a master cylinder reservoir behind the driver's seat [from Summit Racing]; the original location is such a pain and a quick glance at this transparent bottle is so simple and is easy to add fluid when necessary.
I did cut the insulation around the floor access cover for the brake reservoir in case I have to find it or get back to it for any reason.
I put insulation on the inside of the door panels that provide access to the window operators and some insulation on the inside of the back wall of the cab.
I also added a sheetmetal liner under my canvas top and insulated it with EZ COOL on top and automotive headliner material under it.
I have added a muffler and all new weatherstripping and can carry on a cell phone conversation with the truck idling and hearing protection does not seem necessary at speed.
I plan on adding air-conditioning this winter and will add more back wall insulation with that project.
Don't let any of the comments from the pros on this site get to you; the dumbest question is the one that you don't ask. Everyone here is out to help in their own way--even I as a newbie cringed when you asked about the master cylinder cover and I knew there would be some fast replies.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

The second is for the transfer case and allows you to service the breather.

 

[m16ty]

The holes represent a means of cooling the cab going down the road in the dead of summer.

Ah, the old "roll up the windows and open the windshield" trick. Kenny taught me this several years ago and it really does work.

 

[Maxwell1815]

Don't worry, I am guilty of this myself too...I owned and drive my deuce daily and just learned where the M/C is! Guess what I am checking in the morning! And there is nothing wrong with making your truck the way you want it. There is nothing wrong with a "slightly more" comfortable deuce. That 8 hour trip from PA to OH was a butt bruiser! Thanks for the info everyone but now the old site is down...how else can I access the TMs for this now???

 

[wldrbob]

my pre trip check .. start engine 5 min warmup .. put in gear if truck moves put foot on brakes if truck stops , take foot of brake and go to work. pretty casual i know, but after 25 years with the same truck you know what you fixed and how it workes

 

[KsM715]

Thanks for the info everyone but now the old site is down...how else can I access the TMs for this now???

LOGSA or something like that.


EDIT: fixed, https://www.logsa.army.mil/etms/online.cfm For you Enter at your own risk.