Converting to dual alternators

[DUG]

The kit from George aka TM America was $150 with shipping. If I remember correctly you can get either the 24 volt or the 12 volt set up individually for 75 plus shipping. If that's wrong George please correct me.

George tells me every nut and bolt I need is in the kit and it sure looks like it. I'll report back after the install.

I picked up the 24 volts alternator on the web at the link I provided in post #1. It is brand new and cost about 123 shipped. I plan to reuse the stock pulley by reaming it out with a 7/8 drill bit. It is not keyed.

Since I need one longer belt to run the 12 volt alternator I picked up all new. I got them from eBay cheap. I'll replace the compressor belt while I'm there.

I was going to use a one wire alternator I had here for the 12 volt side, but I forgot that I already installed it on my Chevelle. Instead I picked up an O'Rielys cheapie. It was 35 plus 15 for the core and 3 for the pig tail wiring. I probably should have spent another 10 dollars and bought the better one with a lifetime warranty.

The only thing we got done today was disconnecting the ground from the battery and installing the third battery for the 12 volt set up. For that I picked up a mid grade Interstate battery from the NEX for 65. I don't think I'll need that many CCAs on the 12 volt side.

So far my "kit" costs are:

Brackets 150
24 volt alt 123
12 volt alt 60
belt 8

I still need to pick up some wire to finish things off. I'm not sure how it compares to the Wolverine set up since I've only seen it in photos.

 

[tm america]

Glad to see you are feeling good enough to start working on it again.I know how bad back problems suck first handthe price seam pretty consitant with what i found at least within a few bucks..Installing both of my kits will save you some over the wolverine kit..But the really big savings are if you only want to add a 12 volt to the stock truck or just want to install a updated 24 volt alt as you don't have to do both just because you want to do one

 

[DUG]

I feel good enough to supervise. So far soldier B is turning most of the wrenches. I did do the reaming on the pulley myself though. The drill press broke so I had to do it by hand. Came out perfect though. Drill bit cost 24 dollars and we used a full can of WD40.

We are planning on get both alts installed in the morning and wiring the 24 volt up. I'll wire the 12 volt up later.

 

[DUG]

Mostly done. The 12 volt side is not wired up yet. During the inital start up the battery gauge went to the middle of the green, someplace it's never been. A few minutes later it creeped up to the low side of the red. I need to get the multimeter out there and see what it's putting out.

Overall the install went pretty smooth. George included every nut, bolt and washer that you would need. The bottom 24 volt alternater bolts could be about a 1/4 inch longer and the bolt that connects the adusting arms together is a little too long, but thats just being nit picky. Other than that the kit is near perfect.

"Soldier B" , my 14 year old son did 80% of the work. He had a hard time tightening the lower alternater mount bolts, but we discovered it not too bad if you use a box end 3/4 inch wrench and come in from above. The best way to get the belts tight is to do the 24 volt alternater while the 12 volt is still off. I used new belts and getting the one on the 24 volt was a PITA, but we got it done. The 12 volt belt was pretty easy.

I am really happy with the kit and I want to thank George for walking me through it all with many PMs and a few phone calls. And of course Soldier B who turned most of the wrenches.

 

[doghead]

Will this dual alt setup work with the stock heater hose connected at the waterpump? What about the top heater hose too?

I'm thinking this mount set would be good for using a set of cucv alts, that way you could get24 and 12v and Not need to add a third battery.

 

[DUG]

Will this dual alt setup work with the stock heater hose connected at the waterpump? What about the top heater hose too?

I'm thinking this mount set would be good for using a set of cucv alts, that way you could get24 and 12v and Not need to ad a third battery.

DH - I'll have to let George answer that since I don't have a heater.

I like third battery because if I toast it somehow, I still have the main batterys to get me home.

 

[jesusgatos]

Looks like you did a nice job with those brackets TM America.

 

[DUG]

All complete, just finished wiring the 12 volt side. Everything works just as it should and I'm happy with the conversion. Thanks again George!

 

[hndrsonj]

I'm thinking this mount set would be good for using a set of cucv alts, that way you could get24 and 12v and Not need to add a third battery.

Didn't the HMMVV have a dual 24/12 V alternator? If so, wouldn't you be able to just bolt on with the brackets? Looks good though DUG.

 

[doghead]

The Humvee alternator is expensive and the parts for it are not common(cheap).

It would work to add and charge a third battery, but you cannot draw a large load off the 12v tap.

Honestly, the CUCV dual 12v alts in series is a fantastic system. It correctly charges each battery separately and allows full load use of 12 or 24 volts.

Sorry to get off topic some George, but I think your brackets would be great for this conversion also, if someone wanted to go this way.

 

[hndrsonj]

You aren't kidding DH the dual alts are expensive. I was just on Eriks Surplus website and they get over $1700 for a new one!

 

[gaspain]

so where did you hide the third battery?

 

[DUG]

so where did you hide the third battery?

All three batterys fit in the battery box. I'll get a pic later.

I have heard three won't fit if you have the newer, plastic box, but I don't know for sure. I have the old, metal type.

Of course this assumes you have ditched the worthless 6TLs already.

 

[DUG]

So since I have this 2nd electrical system currently powering nothing, I figured I better hook up a gauge to keep tabs on the the nothing its doing. I went to autozone and picked up a cheap Sunpro voltmeter. You know - the ones all the kewl mofos run in their hot rod Pintos. I'll probably replace it with a military 12 volt gauge later, but it's ok for now.

I removed the high beam indicator light and installed it where the drivers side instrument light was. The instrument light was removed since they are pretty much worthless. I took the bulb from it and put it in the new voltmeter so it will be the best lit gauge I have.

I drilled a hole, slide in the gauge, wired it up and painted it quickly and kinda crappily so it blends in.

 

[rat4spd]

You may want to get a 24V relay so your 12V system is switched from the ignition.

 

[jesusgatos]

...and painted it quickly and kinda crappily so it blends in.

Hah. That's what I'm going to say about everything I paint.

 

[DUG]

You may want to get a 24V relay so your 12V system is switched from the ignition.

I was thinking about a toggle switch. Then I can turn it off if I want. Not sure how much drag it would have though, so maybe a relay is a better idea.

Can you use some of that paid internet time and google me up what I need?

 

[JasonS]

So, why do you need a third battery?

 

[DUG]

So, why do you need a third battery?

To store the electricity made by the 12 volt alternator. Now I can add any 12 volt goodies that I want.

There are other ways to do it - 24 volt inverters, dual output alternators, etc, but I liked this set up the best.

 

[rat4spd]

Something like this.....there are many...

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