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Latest build up m715

bcowanwheels

Member
490
2
18
Location
KINGSPORT, TN.
WELL on my way with another M 715 build. heres what been done so far

1. complete strip down to bare frame and axles, remove stock engine mounts, trans mounts and t-case mounts. remove all factory heat shield on bottom of cab and firewall as there no longer needed in factory locations.
2. new 4.56 gears (f&r) along with complete re-bearings installed, new power lock posi in front, new selectro ft. hubs. new inner axle seals, clean out knuckles and repack with grease, new front felts & seals, check king pins, tie rod ends, new rubbers boots on tie-rod ends.
3. reman j30 power steering box installed, new hydro assist cylinder installed, 4th p/s box mounting bolt installed.
3. new brakes completely all around, turnned all drums on hubs for trueness. new rubber brake hoses ft & rear.
4. clean, inspect, repack with grease all wheel bearings & hubs, new wheel seals.
5. modify frame for 38" tire under bed
6. class 5 hitch
7. mount new sb chevy, sm465 & married np205 (all remaned )
8. new front springs and shackles
9. new front bumper and braces. install class 2 reciever hitch in front bumper.
10. run new fuel, vent & brake lines
11. final dissasembly 100%, sandblast everything, paint semi gloss black everything except engine its 24087 o.d.green.
12. new h/d shocks,
13. r&r rear springs & shackles, clean, inspect all as new to spec.
14. make new custom rims (16" x 8" wide for lav tires )

lots more to come with pictures
SOMEBODY IS GOING TO END UP WITH A SUPER NICE RUST FREE M715
 
Last edited:

67_C-30

New member
645
3
0
Location
Sweet Home Alabama!
WELL on my way with another M 715 build. heres what been done so far

1. complete strip down to bare frame and axles, remove stock engine mounts, trans mounts and t-case mounts. remove all factory heat shield on bottom of cab and firewall as there no longer needed in factory locations.
2. new 4.56 gears (f&r) along with complete re-bearings installed, new power lock posi in front, new selectro ft. hubs. new inner axle seals, clean out knuckles and repack with grease, new front felts & seals, check king pins, tie rod ends, new rubbers boots on tie-rod ends.
3. reman j30 power steering box installed, new hydro assist cylinder installed, 4th p/s box mounting bolt installed.
3. new brakes completely all around, turnned all drums on hubs for trueness. new rubber brake hoses ft & rear.
4. clean, inspect, repack with grease all wheel bearings & hubs, new wheel seals.
5. modify frame for 38" tire under bed
6. class 5 hitch
7. mount new sb chevy, sm465 & married np205 (all remaned )
8. new front springs and shackles
9. new front bumper and braces. install class 2 reciever hitch in front bumper.
10. run new fuel, vent & brake lines
11. final dissasembly 100%, sandblast everything, paint semi gloss black everything except engine its 24087 o.d.green.
12. new h/d shocks,
13. r&r rear springs & shackles, clean, inspect all as new to spec.
14. make new custom rims (16" x 8" wide for lav tires )

lots more to come with pictures
SOMEBODY IS GOING TO END UP WITH A SUPER NICE RUST FREE M715
Hey Bob! - didn't know you were over here too. I'm thinking of buying a M715 myself. Did you ever use that NOS 292 L6 cam you bought from me?
 

troop2865

Member
54
13
8
Location
Litchfield, Illinois
Bob,
I saw on one of your previous trucks where you installed heat and A/C. What unit did you use and did it fit well? I have been looking at different companies, but really just starting. Thanks, and I wish I had a 4bt. I have to settle for the much cheaper SBC. Nice work.
 

bcowanwheels

Member
490
2
18
Location
KINGSPORT, TN.
vintage air is the A/C-HEAT units i use. also a ( stock ) small block chevy in my opinion is the best in all aspects as far as engine swaps IMO. the cummins diesel swap is extreamly expensive route to go and is "alot " of custom engineering to do. i have rebuilt several 292 chevy engines and the cam i bought from you is in one of them "but " i,am considering pulling it back out and installing a melling MTC-1 towing cam for the bottom end grunt.
 

Armada

New member
3,046
4
0
Location
Buick City, MI
vintage air is the A/C-HEAT units i use. also a ( stock ) small block chevy in my opinion is the best in all aspects as far as engine swaps IMO. the cummins diesel swap is extreamly expensive route to go and is "alot " of custom engineering to do. i have rebuilt several 292 chevy engines and the cam i bought from you is in one of them "but " i,am considering pulling it back out and installing a melling MTC-1 towing cam for the bottom end grunt.
Ever put a 6.2 in one? I've often thought putting the engine and drivetrain from an m1008 into a 715 would be the ticket. Dana60 and 14corp axles are already geared 4:56 and the large wheelwells will accept much larger tires. It would be much more streetable than the original hurc 230, t-case and massively geared axles. I don't think it would need to be too heavily modified to make the conversion?
 

troop2865

Member
54
13
8
Location
Litchfield, Illinois
Thanks Bob. I have communicated with you a couple of times regarding wheels and an M715 you were trying to sell for another woman. I ended up finding one closer to home with some of the work already done (power steering, Chevy 350 - good engine but banged in firewall- lockers front and rear and Selectro hubs). I was able to get good price out of the axles and decided to upgrade to the CUCV axles. As for the cam, you must be thinking of someone else.

Good to hear you are still building trucks. I saw where you were trying to sell a bunch of M715 stuff a while back.

God bless. He is good.
 

67_C-30

New member
645
3
0
Location
Sweet Home Alabama!
Fellas 6.2,s & 6.5 engines are very problem prone. The bottom of the blocks crack around the main journals.
While this is true, these engines last and last if they aren't beat to death. I've had 1 with with over 300K and couple more with 260K+. Several companies make stud girdles that strenghtens the bottom end, and if the engine is out, its crazy not to pop the pan and bolt one on. The great fuel mileage and simplicity of the swap (they have SBC/BBC motor mount pads and bellhousing) makes them a good candidate for anything that is not an all out mud buggy. I'm running three of them now, and may put another in the M715 that I committed to buy today!;)
 
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