Steering Column Removal - M1009

[cmroles]

OK...

Today I started the replacement of my turn signal / dimmer switch. I followed the steps in the -34 TM. After removing the 2 nuts that bolt the column support to the bottom of the dash, I cannot get the column to drop down. According to the TM it should just come down after its unbolted....this does NOT seem to be the case.

I've looked it over and don't seen anything obvious that's hanging it up. What it looks like as I try to pull down on it is that it is not being allowed to drop down where it comes out of the firewall.

Am I missing something or am I just going crazy?

Thanks in advance for assistance.

 

[dunedigger]

In the engine bay on the firewall you will see two 15 mm nuts on a half stap with studs on it at the base of the column. Usually covered in goop to prevent rust. That will hold enough tension to hang up the column. If you loosen those it should come down.

 

[hogtruck]

Look on the engine side of the firewall. The steering column is held by two bolts/nuts just below the brake master cylinder. Mine were covered with a lot of gunk. 15MM deep socket should do. Will try to post pics tomorrow.

 

[rlwm211]

I would take the 4 bolts out of the U-shpaed bracket bolted to the column that holds the column in place with the two nuts you removed and remove the bracket and then the steering column will spring down.

I have been in this area of the dash and column many times and occasionally there is a little tension on the bracket, either in or out, or that the bracket is narrow or wide, and there is pressure on the threads and it will have the effect of holding it in place.

Besides, removing the u shaped bracket makes it easier to get your hands in there to deal with the dimmer switch.

Watch the sharp edges working under the dash. I seem to be unable to do this kind of work without getting some sort of nick or gash.

If you are replacing the turn signal switch you will need to drop the u-shaped bracket anyways to snake the wires down the column.

Hope this is helpful

RL

 

[cmroles]

Thanks everybody for all the input. I'll take a look at this tomorrow and see if I can get the sucker out. If I don't settle all these goofball electrical problems soon I won't have any hair left!

EDIT

On a side-note....

What is the part inside the steering column that the turn-signal control actually plugs into? I have a complete replacement switch, but there appears to be an extra part that is an "interface" between the switch and the turn-signal lever. This piece looks a bit worn and seems to be a little sloppy in my truck. I'd like to replace but can't find it in LMC Truck's catalog or in the -34P TM.

Thanks

 

[rlwm211]

You can change the dimmer switch without removing the column. The turn signal switch in the top of the column is easily done in the vehicle. Working on a GM column is pretty straightfirward, and even easier if it is not a tilt column.

The entire column is bolted to the firewall with probably 4 bolts. The are under the dash at the base of the column, as described above, under tar and sealant.

If you do not need to replace the column, then fix what ails it in place.

Keep posting and we will get you through this.

RL

 

[Capt.Marion]

The dimmer switch is actuated by a rod connected to the turn signal lever. As you pull the lever towards you, it pushes a rod down along the top of the column, actuating the physical switch.

The ignition switch works the same way. As you twist the key, it pushes a rod which moves the ignition switch into the different positions... ACC, OFF, ON, START...

 

[cmroles]

The dimmer switch is actuated by a rod connected to the turn signal lever. As you pull the lever towards you, it pushes a rod down along the top of the column, actuating the physical switch.

The ignition switch works the same way. As you twist the key, it pushes a rod which moves the ignition switch into the different positions... ACC, OFF, ON, START...

Mission Accomplished

I was able to replace the turn-signal switch without dropping the column all the way down (it only came down about 1"). While I was in there I also got the headlight dimmer working properly. The metal actuator rod had come out of the "cup" that it sits in. When you pulled the directional control to activate the high-beams the rod would go all over the place.

Its all back together now and the turn-signals and high beams seem to be working great!

Thanks for all the tips / advice!