Tips on buying an M37?

[cbvet]

I'll probably be looking at an M37 for sale this weekend, & I'd appreciate some tips on what to watch for.

I was told that it is complete except for a cab top, light rust with no rust-through, engine won't run. Also has snow plow mechanism attached. That's all I know right now.

I'm an experienced mechanic on the older vehicles, but never worked on an M37.

What are some particular problems I should look for?

Thanks,
Eric

 

[NDT]

I would be on the lookout for rust under the battery box and along the cowl under the windshield. Also in the front of the bed. In my opinion, buying M37's is all about finding a nice body. Mechanical problems and missing parts are an easier issue to solve than finding a good body to install on a running rust bucket. Good luck!

 

[pwrwagonfire]

I was told to check the inside of the two compartments on the side of the bed, and see if they are rusted out or not, also as NDT said check the battery box. I have been told that tailgates are rare in certain parts of the country, due to many fire depts using them and taking the tailgate off to operate the pump...not sure if that really matters but figured its worth a mention!


One thing I'd personally check if buying one again, is if it was converted to 12v...was it a hack job? My truck was converted VERY, VERY poorly...the alternator didn't even line up with the other pulleys

Good luck, make sure to post pictures!

 

[STSCSS]

The most expensive things to replace are the Gas tank, Radiator, and engine. Depending on how far you want to restore the truck the snow plow attachement may be a problem if they monkey fisted the welding job. Engine not running does it turn over by hand? When was it last started and will they let you hook up a battery to see if it will turn over? (good check of the starter. Out of the 5 rigs I have two that are non starters the one that has a good body cost me 2k because i knew the engine was rebuilt and all the stuff was there to make her run.
The other cost $1,900 and has a good body, a good winch, and engine with a botched 12 volt conversion and no brakes.
Check to see if the brakes hold and also if the wiring under the dashboard is usable.
My biggest concern is it being a snowplow and now a non starter. Even though these are tough little trucks snowplow work is tough on any vehicle esp the transmission and brakes.
(bent frame is also a possibilty)

Here is a quick list of high cost items:
Brake system 300-500
Renew radaitor 300-600
renew gas tank 200-
new starter 225
new stock distrubitor 225-400
Rebuild fuel pump 45-225
Carb rebuild 45-250
New wiring harness 500-1000
Plugs and wiring 200+
Tires set of four 600+

I dont mean to scare you but the more intact the truck the cheaper it will be in the long run. How much do you want to spend on a non running truck?

Having a runner is also cheaper than restoring back to original....what do you want to do with this truck?

 

[m376x6]

Rust is usually the thing that you should be on the look out for. Another somewhat common area for rust is under the headlight guards on the front of the fenders. Look for bulging on the bottoms of the outer windshield frame. Also the underside of each door. Plus the other places already mentioned. I've had one engine that wouldn't start but turned over to later find there wasn't much left of the pistons. Wrong size installed at a depot rebuild. Make a quick check under the truck for drive line parts and what kind of shape they're in. Has the ignition system and carburator system been re-engineered or changed out for something no one can identify. Oh, by the way, if doesn't have a winch but has a PTO attached to the tranny and you're not interested in a winch. I'll go through the tranny for you and use a regular cover plate and buy the PTO from you. I need a PTO. The other main thing is, how much are you willing to spend on the condition it is in. I've bought trucks that were up on blocks but were otherwise complete and in cherry shape for as little as $350. I've passed on trucks that folks have wanted over 5k for that were held together by rust and broken parts. Are you looking for a truck that will be a Museum quality, Depot, or **** I don't care whatever is in it as long as it runs kind of final truck. There are still a few to be had out there. Good luck, it's always fun to go look at a truck.

Regards,
M376X6

 

[patracy]

Rust is usually the thing that you should be on the look out for. Another somewhat common area for rust is under the headlight guards on the front of the fenders. Look for bulging on the bottoms of the outer windshield frame. Also the underside of each door. Plus the other places already mentioned. I've had one engine that wouldn't start but turned over to later find there wasn't much left of the pistons. Wrong size installed at a depot rebuild. Make a quick check under the truck for drive line parts and what kind of shape they're in. Has the ignition system and carburator system been re-engineered or changed out for something no one can identify. Oh, by the way, if doesn't have a winch but has a PTO attached to the tranny and you're not interested in a winch. I'll go through the tranny for you and use a regular cover plate and buy the PTO from you. I need a PTO. The other main thing is, how much are you willing to spend on the condition it is in. I've bought trucks that were up on blocks but were otherwise complete and in cherry shape for as little as $350. I've passed on trucks that folks have wanted over 5k for that were held together by rust and broken parts. Are you looking for a truck that will be a Museum quality, Depot, or **** I don't care whatever is in it as long as it runs kind of final truck. There are still a few to be had out there. Good luck, it's always fun to go look at a truck.

Regards,
M376X6

I can't speak to the mechanicals of these trucks, but of the ones I've seen, there was rust under the doors on the rockers and in the floorboards. Also around the back of the cab areas. Rusting out is going to be a problem on a softtop vehicle more than a hard top since they're more prone to leaks and collecting water.

I'd also suggest looking over all the mounting points for body/engine/trans/springs/exc. to the frame. These are the points that tend to be cobbled together when something breaks by Bubba and his bubble gum welds.

 

[cbvet]

Thanks a lot for all the good advice, guys!
If I get an M37, it'll be just like my other trucks. Has to look basically original, run pretty good, & have safe tires & brakes.
I drive 'em rain, snow, or sunshine.

 

[cbvet]

Well, after a lot of effort to get together with this guy, I finally looked at the truck this morning.
From 10 feet away I said "Is this the right truck?"
Seriously rusted. Even the dash has rusted badly in spots. I didn't even open the hood.
But thanks again for all the tips! I'm still looking.

 

[nattieleather]

Keep looking they are out there.

 

[mkcoen]

There were around 7 M37s on GSA out of Wyoming a month or so ago. They still pop up on GSA ocassionally.

As mentioned regarding rust on the cowl. I bought what I thought was a really rust free body to use on my wife's truck. Got it home and started the disassembly only to find out once I laid the windshield down that the cowl was completely rusted out in a nice 2" line directly under the bottom windshield frame. If you can move the windshield on any others you look at it might save some surprise disappointment down the line.

 

[STSCSS]

Too bad you did not take pictures

 

[majorhitt]

Too bad the M37 is a rust bucket. Better luck next time.

 

[67_C-30]

I have also found a '52 M37 that is supposed to be "pretty solid" with just a "little through", so I haven't seen it yet. It runs and drives, and is supposed to pretty pretty original and intact, minus the top. IF it runs OK, and isn't a rust bucket - what would it be worth? I'm not sure I even want to take another project, but if its reasonable, I will pass along the info if I don't want it.

 

[seabee mike]

I have an extra m37 it is a 53 and it looks to be an ex CB truck. Old markings showing through the paint. It could be a USMC truck too. It has a a red diamond and a 1 in white in the center of the diamond. Both are used my the Cb's and the MC. It is a project truck . I don't remember much if any rust.

 

[southdave]

I have an extra m37 it is a 53 and it looks to be an ex CB truck. Old markings showing through the paint. It could be a USMC truck too. It has a a red diamond and a 1 in white in the center of the diamond. Both are used my the Cb's and the MC. It is a project truck . I don't remember much if any rust.

Dude that is NMCB 1 lol red diamond is battlion emblem . my experince is Marines are more regimental and div. centric.. from my days of stealing thier trucks . also it is like two different corps from east coast to west lol