• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M1028 w/ambulance pkg

swyne

New member
85
0
0
Location
upstate,NY
Ok we all know that theres is the problem with this set up. Has any one figured it out?
I really would like to keep the truck as original as possible by not converting to 12v. I have a copy of all the manuals for the truck and the TB on a "fix" for this by, the cutting of the orange wires, voltage regulaters set to hi etc etc. I read all that. Someone said on here that even that didn't work, in which it didn't. My truck had this mod done before I got it. Is it possible to have one of the 28v alts in place to charge a 24v battery? and a 12v alt for the 12v stuff? I mean it sounds possible but has anyone tried this before? I would really be defeating the purpose of trying to keep it stock with this deal going on. Just for double checking I've pulled both alts today and I'm going to have them tested this week. Is it just the starter and slave plug that rely on 24v or do the glow plugs too? Gotta start some where!! Thanks for any advice.
 

CUCVFAN

Gunner's Mate First Class
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,177
47
48
Location
Jarrettsville, MD
No real good fix for full 24V, although I have heard if you have enough load, it seems to work OK? Maybe some sort of solid state component/design flaw? Who knows?

Search here for more details (it's been covered a lot), but switch the orange and red wires on the DUVAC (larger blue box - move orange to the front, red to the rear) to get a 12V and 24V hybrid system. You can also change the regulator of the top alternator to "LOW", but it is not necessary. If you drive it extensively, I might consider it.

Also, always turn off the master light toggle switch when not running the truck (especially after using the headlights).
 

swyne

New member
85
0
0
Location
upstate,NY
Altenator shop called. Said the bottom alt was not good shape and the top one needs a rear bearing (noisy) and its not putting out what its rated for. So he will have them squared a way next week and I contacted Sprucemtsurplus.com (super nice guy) and he had a couple of NOS dry Dekkas on the shelf. So when I droped off the altenators I drove up to see Don to pick up those batts. I'm also in the process of cleaning and painting under the hood as I go. I cashed in on the CDR valves. A new one of those looks good under the hood too. I'll post after installation is complete and possibly with pics.
 

m38inmaine

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,118
67
48
Location
Maine USA
The local fire dept has a M1010 and I converted it to 12v as they were having the typical electrical problems. I removed all wiring in the charging system and purchased a commercial 125A self exciting alternator and installed it on the right side, replaced the 24v meter with a 12v unit(same size)and replaced the 24v starter with a 12v. Bypassed the resister bank and it works fine. The only item 24v is the starter. the rear heater may require 24v but I don't recall. They have run it for 2 years now and are very pleased with it. Amazing how much wire and junk were removed. Glad to see those CDR valves being put to good use!

Mark
 

GM72K10

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
653
68
28
Location
Bucks County, Pa.
Update, got the truck to run (needed a rear battery), charges correctly, this is also one of those SUPER rare GL trucks WITHOUT a bent driveshaft. VIN info on dash sheets states its an ambulance, bucket seats (which it doesn't have) there is no cab cut out so it was converted for something else.
 

Attachments

mkcoen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,637
381
83
Location
Spring Branch, TX
Looks like it has the M1010 alternators. Does it have the DUVAC set up on the left front inner fender? That's what causes most of the electrical problems with the 1010s. The system never worked well for the military so they tried a few fixes but those never worked really well either. What tends to happen is the front batt winds up over charging and fries. The easiest fix is a battery equalizer to replace the DUVAC. This is the best thread to see the process:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/electrical/37909-m1010-no-more-duvac.html
 

markg

Member
352
1
18
Location
hutto,tx
Update, got the truck to run (needed a rear battery), charges correctly, this is also one of those SUPER rare GL trucks WITHOUT a bent driveshaft. VIN info on dash sheets states its an ambulance, bucket seats (which it doesn't have) there is no cab cut out so it was converted for something else.
very strange truck indeed, looks like the artic cold weather heater around the battery. as i recall the ambulance started as a pickup, then it was converted. 3rd character of the vin for trucks and ambulance is c-complete vehicle, while the 1031 contact maint truck had cab-chasis vin of b - incomplete truck. maybe this truck was supposed to be an ambulance and never got that far.
 
Last edited:

GM72K10

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
653
68
28
Location
Bucks County, Pa.
ambulance also had door ajar light next to the volt meter, and the 3 switches for the blower and side flood lights. they also had a bent t-case shifter lever
and the raised floor between the front seats.
I agree, I've had two M1010s, however . . . who knows what goes on?
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks