• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

My First Deuce Arrived (Long post with Pics)

phil2968

Active member
2,591
17
38
Location
Lakeland, Florida
The small connector just above the fuel tank on the front of the box is the 24V connection from the batteries to run the 2 center low voltage lights. The 120 volt lights are fed through the large connector near the top of the box.
 

Clay James

Member
524
4
18
Location
Reno/NV
Low was so low that by the time I pushed the clutch in and got the gearbox into 2nd gear the truck had slowed down so much I needed first again. :driver: Looks like I certainly need some practice.
Similar thing happened to me. I was turning left at an intersection in high range but when I tried to shift to second it wouldn't go in and it slowed down so much I had to put it in first again. Happened to me twice that day. This was only my second time driving it but I am getting better.
 

KsM715

Well-known member
5,149
142
63
Location
St George Ks
I am pretty certain that you low air buzzer has been disconected by the prop company. Look up under the dash on the fire wall. Right in the middle is a big squarish box with one single connector coming out of the bottom of it. they probably pulled the wire out of it. Look for any loose hanging wires near by that would have just about the right length to reach that and I bet thats your wire. It should have a metal tag with the #85 on it.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
748
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I like that nobody has asked why I bought it. After all do you really need a reason? So far of everybody who's asked me about it, only one guy failed to ask "Why? What are you going to use it for?" All he said was, "Aim for the hippies." :p

But for those that are curious, I'm a bit of a prepper, and I found out about these from that post on SurvivalBlog.com. Seemed like an ideal "get out of dodge" vehicle for us to get to our cabin with all of our preps and solar panel system, if someday we needed to, though I kinda doubt it'll ever get that bad.

So in the mean time, it's going to make trips to HomeDepot a lot easier. And we are actually toying with the idea of turning it into a mobile video production studio for my business. Need to figure out air conditioning if we do that though. Computers don't like heat.

Opcom has a few solutions to A/C in a deuce. His were installed in an s280 shelter, but could be used in a 109 just as easy. His current truck is an 8109, so you might have to look for threads more than a year old.

I have had a few tell me how good my trucks would be for "bug out" trucks, but if you think about all the idiots that would block the roads (I am in the city) I doubt it would get very far.
 

JeremyN

New member
28
0
1
Location
Provo, UT
I am pretty certain that you low air buzzer has been disconected by the prop company. Look up under the dash on the fire wall. Right in the middle is a big squarish box with one single connector coming out of the bottom of it. they probably pulled the wire out of it. Look for any loose hanging wires near by that would have just about the right length to reach that and I bet thats your wire. It should have a metal tag with the #85 on it.
Thank you for the detailed information. I assumed the same thing, after all a buzzer on a truck is about the last thing the sound guy wants to hear on a movie set.
 

JeremyN

New member
28
0
1
Location
Provo, UT
I have had a few tell me how good my trucks would be for "bug out" trucks, but if you think about all the idiots that would block the roads (I am in the city) I doubt it would get very far.
Thanks for the tip on A/C.

As for the bug out thing, I agree if you are in a large city, and have to go many miles on main roads to get "out" the deuce is probably not the best vehicle. In the city it's probably better to be as invisible as possible. However, I'm in the outskirts of the 'berbs and I have the mountains as my front yard (literally). To get to our cabin, I can easily avoid major roads. In fact, if push comes to shove, I could get off road about 1/2 block from my house and never look back again.
 

gunboy1656

Active member
3,587
22
38
Location
Beaver Falls, PA
I like that nobody has asked why I bought it. After all do you really need a reason? So far of everybody who's asked me about it, only one guy failed to ask "Why? What are you going to use it for?" All he said was, "Aim for the hippies."
Look at the people your dealing with, and your surprised nobody asked what your going to do with it. We are a bunch of green iron junkies, it is the non junkies that can't wrap their little minds over this hobby.

Good looking truck, an M109 is probably next on my list to buy. Well vehicle wise.
 

x-ray

New member
141
1
0
Location
Brockport, NY
That truck looks great. While the driveshaft dent is a likely culprit for the 40MPH vibration, I had a similar thing on my second truck when I initially recovered it - would vibrate around 40MPH or so. Drove it 400+ miles on the recovery. It smoothed out altogether after driving around a few weeks- it was the tires, it had been sitting quite a long time. Check your tire pressure too.

How do you rate your overall experience with the MV prop company
 

roscoe

New member
998
0
0
Location
Spencerville, Indiana
Welcome, nice looking truck. I'd say the paint job looks to be authentic military grade. I'd do a filter and fluid change as its probably the same one its had since 1997. Do it yourself as it will help familiarize your new truck.:smile:
 

EMD567

Driver for the Ga Mafia
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,117
47
48
Location
Aiken SC
As for the gear shifting, learn how to double clutch the tranny, and your speed shifting the gears will improve. For the non rollback hill starts, start working the left arm, as the parking brake is your friend. :driver:
 

JeremyN

New member
28
0
1
Location
Provo, UT
As for the gear shifting, learn how to double clutch the tranny, and your speed shifting the gears will improve. For the non rollback hill starts, start working the left arm, as the parking brake is your friend. :driver:
Funny, I'd never heard the term double-clutching. But as it turns out, I was already doing it on occasion.

Is is possible to lubricate the parking brake line, or do I just need to hit the weights.
 

FMJ

In Memorial
In Memorial
4,210
37
0
Location
Las Cruces, NM
Funny, I'd never heard the term double-clutching. But as it turns out, I was already doing it on occasion.

Is is possible to lubricate the parking brake line, or do I just need to hit the weights.
I sprayed WD40 down the line from right behind the lever.
 

x-ray

New member
141
1
0
Location
Brockport, NY
Good to hear I see they have interesting trucks from time to time - When I saw your truck initially listed on Ebay, I was tempted to bid on it, but didn't 'cause I'm on the opposite side of the country.

I have since purchased a well used M109 from Ft Drum (GL) and hope to get it to look as nice as yours - I think they look great in 686 Tan.
 

JeremyN

New member
28
0
1
Location
Provo, UT
So I removed the front drive shaft, and it drives much more smoothly. A bit of a shake at about 35mph (probably the tires), but it smooths out very nicely after that. Got it up to 50mph for the first time last week. Any advice on replacement vs repair? Both in terms of cost and safety.

I found the disconnected buzzer cable and plugged it in, but still haven't ever heard it go off... which leads me to...

I took it for a short drive around town yesterday, and had a bit of a startling problem. I always check over the truck before I leave, tires, leaks, etc. And then I started it up. Waited for all gauges to hit normal, including air pressure. I went for my drive, and while I normally try to keep an eye on all my gauges, I apparently didn't watch the air pressure gauge very closely (it's hard but fun work driving these things through traffic). When I got back, and was idling to cool down, I looked more closely at the gauge and it was at 10psi! No buzzer. Thankfully my brakes worked the whole time.

I waited to see if the air compressor would come on, and it did, but only ran for less than a minute and shut off again, pressure gauge didn't budge.

I've read some other threads about freezing lines and draining the air tanks. I'll have to find the appropriate manual and learn how (though yesterday was well above freezing). I haven't started it up today to see if I can get air pressure again, but even if I do, I certainly don't want it to drop off like that again.

Any advice?

I don't know if it's related, but when I first start it up, I try not to rev the engine (per the manual), but sometimes I have to rev it just a bit (about 1100 rpm) for a few seconds to keep it from dying. I did this yesterday as well, but this time when I revved it, I heard a loud squeak. (belts?) Maybe not related, but just in case I thought I'd mention it.
 

Clay James

Member
524
4
18
Location
Reno/NV
I don't know if it's related, but when I first start it up, I try not to rev the engine (per the manual), but sometimes I have to rev it just a bit (about 1100 rpm) for a few seconds to keep it from dying. I did this yesterday as well, but this time when I revved it, I heard a loud squeak. (belts?) Maybe not related, but just in case I thought I'd mention it.
I always use the hand throttle and leave it about 1100 rpm until it's time to move out. It runs like crap at lower rpms until its warmed up.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks